car shaking when braking
hey gyes.. i hv a 2002 tl type s which ibought about 4 wks ago....
the car runs fine and smooth and everything. .until i brake from 80mph to 40mph.... recently it's been doing it on low speed too... what do you think the issue can be? it's only when i break....
i'm guessing it's brakes, rotors, balancing and alignment... wat do you gyes think? just need some suggestions.. btw.. .car just turned 60k miles...
other than that... super nice car! i love it!
the car runs fine and smooth and everything. .until i brake from 80mph to 40mph.... recently it's been doing it on low speed too... what do you think the issue can be? it's only when i break....
i'm guessing it's brakes, rotors, balancing and alignment... wat do you gyes think? just need some suggestions.. btw.. .car just turned 60k miles...
other than that... super nice car! i love it!
good budget brakes can be found at napa or kragen for rotors and pads- they will work ok and stop the car.
If larger budget- in the 350$ range for 2 front rotors and a great pad set, those rotors will last thru several sets of pads and stop great
Its a very common problem with shake on worn out stock brake rotors
The other cause is failing brake calipers, if the brake fluid looks grey, thats bad and will require some other parts replacement as well as flushing the fluid
There is a caliper upgrade for the same price as TL calipers if you need them, ones for a different honda fit, and are dual piston for super braking
If larger budget- in the 350$ range for 2 front rotors and a great pad set, those rotors will last thru several sets of pads and stop great
Its a very common problem with shake on worn out stock brake rotors
The other cause is failing brake calipers, if the brake fluid looks grey, thats bad and will require some other parts replacement as well as flushing the fluid
There is a caliper upgrade for the same price as TL calipers if you need them, ones for a different honda fit, and are dual piston for super braking
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i just got the same issue fixed last week.... i had some used Rotora cross drilled/slotted rear rotors sitting around the house and they told me my rear rotors were warped so the shop put em on for me with new pads... car brakes nice and smooth now... although i wan't to get some cross drilled/slotted front rotors to match the rear ones...
Trell301,
Good timing for this post. Last night was the first time I had 4 adults in the car, and the shudder from the front end (while braking) was immediate (and embarrassing.) I found other threads that explained the rotor solution, and I appreciate the additional info re: known TL condition. Based on Fsttyms reply I wont bother with turning the stock rotors w/ 80K on them.
The Brembo's are a well regarded name, but I wont be taking my car to the track anytime soon so I prefer to save a few bucks. Rotora is a name I see on the forums - is there a better name brand rotor / pad set for the price?
Thanks for the feedback.
Good timing for this post. Last night was the first time I had 4 adults in the car, and the shudder from the front end (while braking) was immediate (and embarrassing.) I found other threads that explained the rotor solution, and I appreciate the additional info re: known TL condition. Based on Fsttyms reply I wont bother with turning the stock rotors w/ 80K on them.
The Brembo's are a well regarded name, but I wont be taking my car to the track anytime soon so I prefer to save a few bucks. Rotora is a name I see on the forums - is there a better name brand rotor / pad set for the price?
Thanks for the feedback.
thanks for all the help guys... i guess i'll have spend some money on the rotors and since i just got the car and plan on keeping it for several years.. i might as well get the good stuff....
im new to mods and stuff.... so quick question:
what is the difference in cross drilled rotors and regular brembos rotors? i mean... performance wise? lifetime wise? which are better? which are cheaper?
and yes.. i'll be replacing the brakes and rotors both at the same time...
also, should i just do the front or rear too? like stated, it's a 2002 tl type s with 60K miles.... wat do you gyes say frm personal experience? front only or rear too?
im new to mods and stuff.... so quick question:
what is the difference in cross drilled rotors and regular brembos rotors? i mean... performance wise? lifetime wise? which are better? which are cheaper?
and yes.. i'll be replacing the brakes and rotors both at the same time...
also, should i just do the front or rear too? like stated, it's a 2002 tl type s with 60K miles.... wat do you gyes say frm personal experience? front only or rear too?
I LOVE ACURAZINE.COM!!!
definitely saves you sooo much money by just talking to people and hearing from experiences.... and plus, not having to take the car to a shop and pay 50-150 bucks for diagnostics LOL
definitely saves you sooo much money by just talking to people and hearing from experiences.... and plus, not having to take the car to a shop and pay 50-150 bucks for diagnostics LOL
Just get the Brembo blanks, unless you get drilled rotors that were drilled by Brembo. A lot of the eBay people get Brembo blanks and then drill them at another shop. I wouldn't trust those.
if you want cross drille rotors, ONLY buy ones factory designed to do that
As mentioned in numerous threads- MrHeelToe and Excelerate are the brake vendors
go to the top of page here, click Off Topic, scroll down to Sponsored Sales and see both their offerings with details on products
What is your budget is the starting point
Cross drilled often have noise issues and unless you auto-cross race or drive in heavy rains, not worth the issues
Side slotted aid in pad outgassing-cooling and is good for aggressive drivers or even those who commute and find the sudden heavy hard slow down a common occurance~
As mentioned in numerous threads- MrHeelToe and Excelerate are the brake vendors
go to the top of page here, click Off Topic, scroll down to Sponsored Sales and see both their offerings with details on products
What is your budget is the starting point
Cross drilled often have noise issues and unless you auto-cross race or drive in heavy rains, not worth the issues
Side slotted aid in pad outgassing-cooling and is good for aggressive drivers or even those who commute and find the sudden heavy hard slow down a common occurance~
brake shops will take the wheels off and give free inspections- you dont need the dealer on this type stuff
Dealer diagnostic is great for driveabilty problems or strange issues
Their scanner can get way more info from the car than the ones you can buy
Dealer diagnostic is great for driveabilty problems or strange issues
Their scanner can get way more info from the car than the ones you can buy
nothing stops a car better than a blank. more usable surface area vs slotted and drilled. slotted and drilled on the other hand has more un-usable surface area that allows heat to escape quicker reducing brake fade.
unless you like slamming your brakes at every stop light and auto crossing every weekend, you'll probably be better served with just blanks.
unless you like slamming your brakes at every stop light and auto crossing every weekend, you'll probably be better served with just blanks.
Def. replace the rotors with something else. I reworked my front brakes, Legend calipers, flushed fluid, had rotors turned (shop said they were already straight). Braked smoothly- for maybe 1500 mi.! Now it's starting to shudder again. New higher quality rotors are a must.
there is no fixing stock rotors! if they are dead- bury them!
The minor differance in surface area with slotted isnt enough to concern anyone
on braking distance, and the factual advantange of outgassing slots for the pads
comes in handy when you hit the mountains or anywhere that extended holding of the brakes on partially,,,, like downhill,
pad heat gasses can build up to such a pressure as to push the pads away from the rotors!!- while you still have your foot on them!
The minor differance in surface area with slotted isnt enough to concern anyone
on braking distance, and the factual advantange of outgassing slots for the pads
comes in handy when you hit the mountains or anywhere that extended holding of the brakes on partially,,,, like downhill,
pad heat gasses can build up to such a pressure as to push the pads away from the rotors!!- while you still have your foot on them!
After reading this: StopTech : Balanced Brake Upgrades I wonder about the "warped rotor" explanation.
After reading this: StopTech : Balanced Brake Upgrades I wonder about the "warped rotor" explanation.
Loves me some chemistry
I have 72k on 03tls. Have just replaced the front rotors for the third time and rear for the first. None of the replacments were OEM. I am not hard on brakes, got 140k out of original pads on 93 Civic EX dd.
About one week after the last replacements and first road trip on the new rotor/pads, I had to use the brakes hard enough to kick in ABS. It was the identical chatter that occured with the problems I believed were warped rotors. Could there be a relationship?
About one week after the last replacements and first road trip on the new rotor/pads, I had to use the brakes hard enough to kick in ABS. It was the identical chatter that occured with the problems I believed were warped rotors. Could there be a relationship?
okay guys... so it looks like it's finally time for me to buy some brakes and rotors.. i'm thinking about buying only the front set of rotors and pads.... rear seems to be fine for right now....
although we've had this forum going on, my question is: what is a nice brandname of brakes and rotors that i should get that can last me without any noises for sometime... i don't want to go too cheap and replace them after 6 months neither do i wanna go too expensive and empty out my pockets.. so from ur personal experiences... wat do you gyes suggest? i'm thinking about spending around 100-150 on parts.. thanks....
although we've had this forum going on, my question is: what is a nice brandname of brakes and rotors that i should get that can last me without any noises for sometime... i don't want to go too cheap and replace them after 6 months neither do i wanna go too expensive and empty out my pockets.. so from ur personal experiences... wat do you gyes suggest? i'm thinking about spending around 100-150 on parts.. thanks....
I had the same problem with mine, my sugestion that u will never regret is get a set of EBC rotors, they have drilled and slotted, had them for 2 years now, no complaint still stops on a dime. plus their not fully drilled so they will never crack. also if u want get some green stuff pads works the best with EBC.
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