Aydin

Has anyone ran into this issue before. If i drive my car around town and turn it on and off a couple of times i feel like it is going to shut off the next time i turn it on. The RPMs drop below 500 and it sounds like its gonna shut off.. i usually have to put it in drive and gas up or shut it off and turn it back on which usually helps??? Any thoughts..

My problem is the same as this post:Problem with Starting Car
except my batter is totally fine. I think the intakes need to be cleaned out or something.

Sambostl

my tl was like that i had it fixed it was the fuel injectors needed to be changed. Now its good

bricot

Yep, I've had it happen, most were blaming it on the A/C compressor running, although it did stall on me yesterday, no a/c compressor running, had heat with a/c off option running.....

Aydin

people are telling me its the injectors and the gas thats being used.

bricot

I run nothing but premium, so I may buy the injector part ... I'll call service and see ...

Aydin

ya let me know as well. Thanks

ColdFusionTL

My TLS was like that too. My car actually died a couple of times when i started the engine. When i brought it to the dealer, all they had to do was adjust the idle. Its an easy fix it..just bring it to your dealer

TLNY

I have the same situation. I want to know is it expensive to replace fuel injectors?

Idle adjustment sounds good?

I always use premium.

bricot

I have a hard time believing its and idle adjustment, at least for mine, it always occurs when coming to a stop, like there is too much load and the rpms continue to drop to the stall point.

yield2s

try a fuel treatment, it's recommended every 7.5k mikes, That does the trick for me.

fortunate

Mine does that too when I run on gas from 76 for some reason. But when I use Chevron, the weird idling goes away.

MattB

I had a similar issue with my Infiniti...it turned out to be some sensor that was malfunctioning and not sending the signal to open the air intake valve.

jpadilla

i dont have it that sever, what is starting to worry me is a slight hesitation every once in a while ... i'll be driving at a normal speed (not accelerating, just cruising) then all of a sudden it feeds like I shifted to nuertal or tapped on my brakes. It probably happends 4 or 5 times a week (i drive about 300 miles a week). I was going to try and swap out my spark plugs (i think they are original ones 18K miles) to see if that helps. If not its going to the dealer.

Anyone else seen this?

TeknoKing

Yes, as everyone mentioned, is the fuel injectors.

I have the same problem, my malfunction light went on, and Im going on Friday to fix it.

I have to replace the fuel regulator and the PCM, cost 900 bux just for the parts.

jpadilla

actually, i just called the dealer to schedule bringing the car in, he mentioned that the 2003's have a known issue with the NGR valve. What is that? He says its usually confused with a trans slipping.

TeknoKing

EGR,

http://www.acuraofmissionviejo.com/s...tes/00-004.asp

rock

My RPMs would drop (rev up and down) every once in a while when at a stop light, in drive, with A/C on or off. It can't be the battery since I just installed a new red top Optima. This morning when I slowed down on the freeway, the RPMs went down to about 400 or so and then it stalled. While coasting, I put in neutral and then started it. I couldn't duplicate the problem coming home. I'm wondering if the computer would throw a code with just one incident. I really don't like taking my car to dealers. I've been debating all day whether to take it in or wait till it's more consistent.

Green2000TL

I had the same problem, started yesterday and I called my mechanic, my mechanic works for acura and gave me a straight answer. The problem is caused by the IAC valve. There is a carbon build-up and should be replaced. The part itself is produced in Mexico and is showing to be faulty/poor lifespan after several years. I had it replaced this morning and have had no problems since, the care even felt stronger. Service took less than an hour do when the engine was cool enough to work on.

jpadilla

I took my 03 TLS and they replace the EGR valve and cleaned the throttle body. I haven't noticed my issue come back but I do feel a little more power and response when i give it the gas.

rock

I'm hoping it's the IACV, TPS. or now EGR valve. I'm debating whether to take off my CAI and replace it with the stock box/resonator. I'm worried that they might try to blame it on the intake. Maybe I better play it safe just in case. I'm lazy to replace the stock coolant/air hoses

Green2000TL

Rock, if you are familier with teh IAC Valve, dosconnect it and clean it. Clean out the throttle body also, hopefully it's only a carbon build-up. FYI if you take the IAC valve off, don't drop the rubber gasket when removing it.

yield2s

hey green200tl can you explain where the iac valve is and how to clean it. My dealer acknowledges the problem but doesnt want to take action until it causes the "check engine" light to come on.
I've solved the "sticky" gas petal problem that plegues our cars from info on this board and would love to be able to do the IACV also.

2002TLSNavi

Anyone know where the IAC valve is? I'd like to give it a quick look before wasting time taking it to the dealer.

rock

Thanks for the tips. I cleaned the throttle body part way, but all that scum was pretty far back. I ended up taking it to the dealer and they changed the whole throttle body, which also included a new IACV and TPS. So far, several months with a smoothe throttle and no low RPM or stall out problems.

rock

IACV is on the throttle body. The throttle sensor is also near it too, but I'm not sure exactly which is which. Maybe someone else can add more info.

2002TLSNavi

Just got my car back from the dealer today. Brought it in on monday, they tried every morning to duplicate the problem but couldn't. I went in first thing this morning and was able to duplicate it for the tech.

He said it could be the IACV, but probably not because the check engine light wasn't on (I have my doubts about that). Told the service manager about it, and he asked if I had the throttle body cleaned during 30k service.

I had not, I've been doing mostly my own service (everything in the back of the owners manual, and some things I just feel should be done more often). So they want to try that first. Wanted $150-$200 to clean the throttle body, said it would take about an hour and a half. I didn't have the time to wait for it today, and didn't feel like leaving it over the weekend (been without it all week) So I may bring it in next week sometime if I can get an appointment.

Has anyone cleaned the throttle body themselves? If it's not too much of a pain, its probably less hastle for me to do it than thy to schedule a service appointment.

Any recommended procedure for the cleaning?

yield2s

I Have.. and thats not your problem. I have the same speratic low idle as you.
The Trottle body gets gummed up do to the PCV directing oil vapors into the air intake just before the butterflies in the T/B(2 butterflies on a Type S and only 1 on TL P)This oil vapor collects on and around the seal between the butterfly and TB and causes the gas petal to "stick" when you first touch the gas. I have cleaned mine by taking off the rubber air intake hose and using a rag and getting deep into there.
BTW useing syn oil SHOULD completly eliminate this noisence do to the fact that it doesnt varnish like dino oil DOES.

2002TLSNavi

yield,

Thats interesting.... I have had the sticking throttle problem too, put a few drops of oil on the springs by the throttle body like a few posts had suggested, and it seems to have gone away.

Also, I have been running synthetic since my first oil change at 5k miles (Mobil1 5w-30).

Do you think it's even worth have the TB cleaned? Do you think the problem is the IACV?

Thanks alot for the info,
Dave

RACINGHART03

iTrader: (2)

The IAC is located on the bottom of the throttle body and has two coolant hoses running to them. When it fails you will usually have a MIL and DTC set for Idle control system failure. If it is on its way out you may experience some of the things you are speaking of.

yield2s

I suspect that the oil thing didnt really fix that sticking, That was my first guess at fixing the sticking but after finding and fixing both my car and then my sisses old celica (which had it real bad) in the TB. But deff let us know if it did. Does it seem to get progressivly worse the longer you sit at a light?

Thats interesting about the oil...Its true that syn oil is not suppost to varish or gum up like dyno does so i hope your t/b doesnt need cleaning. ( i use mobile 1 too)
As for having the tb cleaned,, I dont know, If it were me Id deff at least take the intake hose off and look at the tb w/ a flashlight just to see cus you know if you take it in they're going to do it whether it needs it or not.

I really dont know where the idleing prob comes from( I wish i did cus i have it also) I've heard a lot of poss feedback from having the IACV replaced, but without a code my dealer doesnt want to replace it.

2002TLSNavi

Over the weekend I finally had some time to work on the car. I pulled the throttle body off the car and gave it a good cleaning. It wasn't too bad, but it definately didn't hurt to clean it out. I also pulled the IACV off the bottom of the throttle body and gave that a throurough cleaning. Put it all back together, and knock on wood, things seem to be idleing smoothly now.

I also had to reset my ECU and do the idle learn procedure. I had rolled down my driver side window before I started working, and it looked like it might rain when I had to run out to the auto parts store for some throttle body cleaner, so I put the ignition in on (didn't start) to roll up the window). After I got everything put back together, it was running fine, but I had a check engine light. So I pulled the ECU backup fuse to reset.

Also note, if you pull off the air intake hose, you are not looking into the throttle body. There is a traction control unit, that contains a second normally open butterfly valve that allows the TCS/VSA system to cut the throttle even if you are standing on the accelerator. This was perfectly clean, so I just pulled it off and put it aside to get to the real throttle body. (not sure if this applies for the non TypeS, don't know if its part of TCS or VSA)

I suspect that the IACV was sticking a bit under certain circumstances causing my problem. Now that its all cleared out, hopefully it won't return.

Thanks again for all the help,
Dave

Brian_C6

I think all these problems come from the BSR/IGH Do-hicky. It can't be the SEF thing-a mag-iggy because the SEF correpsonds with the DFR. You should check the TFH or the GHW. Sometimes the KJW gets mixed signals from the PLWS-2. It happens here alot in the USA. You know.... now that I think of it... maybe check the ZYX-CBA converter in the lower JHG. That's usually the problem unless the FU valve is all EFF'd up.

LATA,
Bri

Brian_C6

eswartz

I've had the same problem come and go... it's usually worse in the summer time, probably because of the "summer" gas. But... since we're talking about engine performance, I have two questions.

Does everyone else's TL-S want to surge forward when the A/C compressor kicks on when idling against the brake? Is this normal? I've never asked the dealer about it... I figured it probably was normal as the engine kicks up the idle a bit to compensate for the drag of the compressor. Yet... no other car I've ever owned has surged like this one.

Second... as the weather gets warmer I've noticed a significant decrease in power just before V-TEC range (4500-4800 rpm). Sometimes it feels like it's struggling just to get there, and once it does all hell breaks loose. Just curious if anyone else notices this (non-modified) and if there is something (other than headers and so forth) that can be done to fix it. It gets really annoying when you should be blowing someone's doors off but they keep up because of this issue.

Eric