I just put a Neuspeed strut bar in my 2K TL-P. Now, we all know that people have a tendency to exaggerate experience/performance in order to justify luxury purchases but...I really feel like I can tell the difference! It was such a simple mod, so easy to install and so inexpensive that I'm kind of hesitant to believe myself. The front end feels more stable and responsive in turns even at low speeds and doesn't dive into corners quite as much at higher speeds.

Just wondering if others felt the same dramatic difference or if it's me. Makes me love my Yoko 225/17s even more F+R sway bars going on this weekend...
--seth

 

I don't know that a front strut bar makes such a big difference, especially considering TL's have some sort of bar anyway, but I can tell you that when I had removed the strut bar from my talon to get some work done & was driving around w/out it, I felt the difference of NOT having one on. So I'm sure they help. The sticky tires you got probably help more though. & swaybars are going to help even more. Compounding the tires, strut bar & sways all together will make a dramatic difference in handling. I'm pretty sure of that. Happy driving!

 

i have a neuspeed strut bar on my 99' TL and i can feel the difference over stock.



@cUr@-TL

 

What did the installation process involve?

 

jack the car from the center, unbolt 2 bolts on both struts, put the bar in, re-bolt and you're done




@cUr@-TL

 

u jacked up the car to install the upper strut bar?? why?

 

I was wondering the same thing...just pop the hood of the car, and that's all you need....some ppl just like to feel more special I guess!!!

 

I had to jack one side. The bar did not slide right in. I even had to loosen the bolt to the OEM bar too. Wasn't too bad, still a 5 minute job.

Also, very important, keep checking to make sure the bolts are tight. After tightening the first time, I find that every few days or so it loosens. This goes the same for the OEM bar.

 

So is this possible for a beginner to do?
This would be my biggest project so far.

Thanks

Marc

 

Definitely possible for a beginner - I am one. I did it on my lunch break Thursday. You don't remove anything; the bar is an addition to the existing equipment. Here's the way it's done (per Neuspeed instructions and tech support).

Tools: 1x14MM extended socket ($3 at Van's Auto Parts)
1xbreaker bar or other ratchet
1xTorque wrench, minimum 10lbs/ft ($30 at Van's)
1xSilicone lubricant (e.g. WD-40)

1. Open the hood. Find the two strut towers located toward the rear of the compartment. They have 5 nuts each, 3x14MM and 2x12MM. The two 12MM nuts hold the firewall brace, which should be easy to identify (it's a bar that connects the two strut towers together behind the engine block with extensions that connect to the rear of the engine compartment).
2. The strut tie bar is going to fit parallel to the firewall brace, just behind and above it. If you hold it just behind the brace with "Neuspeed" facing the front, you will see how the ends line up with two of the 14MM nuts on each of the strut towers. Of the three 14MM nuts, you will use only the rear two on each tower (if viewed from the front of the compartment), i.e. the nuts at 11AM & 3PM on the left and 9AM & 1PM on the right.
3. Lubricate the four nuts generously with the silicone spray. Watch a TV show, have a smoke, call your mom - whatever, wait a bit and then go back. Using the 14MM socket and the breaker bar, loosen and remove all four nuts. They should come off fairly easily. If they don't, lubricate and wait some more. Note: you can use a wrench, but I recommend the extended socket to get clearance from the tower and surrounding parts.
4. Place the passenger side of the tie bar over the two bolts on the passenger side tower. Then place the driver's side down over the two bolts on that tower. If the driver's side does not fit easily over the bolts, loosen the third 14MM bolt on that side and jack up the car until you can fit the tie bar easily over the two bolts. (This is the jacking up that @cur@-TL referred to above. You may not even have to do it.)
5. Replace the four nuts and, using the socket and torque wrench, tighten all four to 10-12 lbs/ft of torque (this per Neuspeed's support). If you had to loosen the third one on the driver's side, tighten that as well. Test drive carefully!

And that is it. I bet it took me longer to write this than it did to actually install the bar. I have pictures if anyone wants them of mine (installed) - I'm not sure how to post them to the forum and I think they are too big anyway. Feel free to post/email with questions.
Cheers,
--seth

 

Thanks for the detailed instructions Seth , I think i'm going to add the neuspeed bar to my to-do list.

Marc

 

Definitely! For ~$100, it's a no-brainer. I just did my front sways today...a little more involved...
--seth

 

Did you have to jack it up to do the sways?

 

Yep, and it's not an option. My neighbor let me borrow his hydrolic jack and jack stands. The end link nuts are 50% of the battle. If you decide to do it, let me suggest that you get a long handled 5MM hex wrench and a ratcheting 14MM wrench (as opposed to a socket). Take a look at the instruction in the DIY section on putting in the Comptech sways and you'll see what I mean.
--seth