A/C Compressor Install
#1
A/C Compressor Install
Hey my AC compressor is leaking I got it checked out at an Acura dealer. They wanted close to 1000 to put a new one in. I went to my local scrap yard picked up an OEM DENSO from a 02 Accord V6 paid 100$ for it with a 3 month warranty. Now what else do I need to install it, the dealer told me 2 plastic washers/seals because when I take the old compressor out they will break. So I bought those 2 seals for 10$. Do I need anything else to make it work??? I got my whole AC system checked at the dealer, just the compressor was leaking.
#2
2003 TL-S w/Navi NBP
I'm guessing those were O rings they sold you. I replaced my suction hose because it had a gash in it, and I need to get my system charged. I think once you open the system (new hose or new compressor), you have to get it vacuumed, then charged with gas/R134. The vacuum is not for cleaning, it is for establishing vaccum pressure in the system, only then can it accept the gas. It kind of sucks (pardon the pun) because anyone can by a few cans of gas at a parts store and charge the system, but the vacuum requires a special machine that's about as big as a shop-size, multi-drawer tool box.
#3
I'm guessing those were O rings they sold you. I replaced my suction hose because it had a gash in it, and I need to get my system charged. I think once you open the system (new hose or new compressor), you have to get it vacuumed, then charged with gas/R134. The vacuum is not for cleaning, it is for establishing vaccum pressure in the system, only then can it accept the gas. It kind of sucks (pardon the pun) because anyone can by a few cans of gas at a parts store and charge the system, but the vacuum requires a special machine that's about as big as a shop-size, multi-drawer tool box.
#4
you can borrow the guages at parts store where you buy freon
buy a small vacuum pump for a/c from harbor freight if you have a compressor
Shops charge per pound of freon- up to 60 bucks per-- for a can you pay 10 bucks each at parts stores!
or
go old school and use master vac port to the low pressure side of guages- instant 20 pound suction is as much as a pump would do~
Once empty you may have to jumper the power (wont kick on when empty) and add the amount of product it says on the compressor example 2.3 lbs
Use the right freon, with oil added in 1 can but not the others,, 2 oz average is all the system can handle for oil
If the system has been open a while, like a broken hose, it may need the receiver-dryer replaced, common on most ac repairs- it absorbs moisture from the system
buy a small vacuum pump for a/c from harbor freight if you have a compressor
Shops charge per pound of freon- up to 60 bucks per-- for a can you pay 10 bucks each at parts stores!
or
go old school and use master vac port to the low pressure side of guages- instant 20 pound suction is as much as a pump would do~
Once empty you may have to jumper the power (wont kick on when empty) and add the amount of product it says on the compressor example 2.3 lbs
Use the right freon, with oil added in 1 can but not the others,, 2 oz average is all the system can handle for oil
If the system has been open a while, like a broken hose, it may need the receiver-dryer replaced, common on most ac repairs- it absorbs moisture from the system
#5
I got the Shifts
iTrader: (5)
umm... u have to hook up the compressor and leave the hoses off until you get to a shop. make sure not to get ANYTING in there.
then hook it up and EVAC the entire system and re-fill. its not 60 bucks per pound of freon. and u dont wanna use those over the counter charge kits.
then hook it up and EVAC the entire system and re-fill. its not 60 bucks per pound of freon. and u dont wanna use those over the counter charge kits.
#7
phee- here in Ca. - with all the govt regs and such- shops do charge 60 dollars per pound -no kidding
Even then you dont get fresh new freon! its recycled stuff- a machine is used to pull out old freon and reuse,,in your car and others ( I dont know the tecnology)
old school: with a set of guages so you know all is well and it holds a vac before trying to add freon,, you can use engine vac- vac is vac for this purpose- not as good as 30 minutes on the vac pump but in desperate times~
Ck with tool rental places- they may have small vac pumps,
its really not a big deal to do IF you understand what you are doing- temp is critical and for your safety do not attempt unless you are a trained professional (disclaimer of any liabilty)
Otherwise spend the 80 bucks at a shop and know it was done right
Even then you dont get fresh new freon! its recycled stuff- a machine is used to pull out old freon and reuse,,in your car and others ( I dont know the tecnology)
old school: with a set of guages so you know all is well and it holds a vac before trying to add freon,, you can use engine vac- vac is vac for this purpose- not as good as 30 minutes on the vac pump but in desperate times~
Ck with tool rental places- they may have small vac pumps,
its really not a big deal to do IF you understand what you are doing- temp is critical and for your safety do not attempt unless you are a trained professional (disclaimer of any liabilty)
Otherwise spend the 80 bucks at a shop and know it was done right
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#8
why would you leave the hoses open- which is certain to damage the rec/dryer and get airborne dust into the system
that wont vac out and can/will be an issue at some point
ck the install instructions,, if the seal rings need a little special oil on them and how to torque- spec
A shop doing a vac and fill is going to charge extra for tighten and test~
Do everything you can at home
that wont vac out and can/will be an issue at some point
ck the install instructions,, if the seal rings need a little special oil on them and how to torque- spec
A shop doing a vac and fill is going to charge extra for tighten and test~
Do everything you can at home
#10
Im so used to doing this myself I forget what shops do~
Yes they would insist on installing the hoses etc in order to give any warranty
BUT if you didnt buy the compressor from them- forget warranty anyways
Yes they would insist on installing the hoses etc in order to give any warranty
BUT if you didnt buy the compressor from them- forget warranty anyways
#11
note- one reason for vac down then wait with guage on- is to test all the seals before freon goes in
#12
well you guys are a little off. Don't instal the compressor unless you have the A/C charging station, to suck out all of the moister in the system, then verify the lines are not leaking by seeing that it holds vaccum, next the the freon has to be heated to generate pressure so that it will inter the system then you can start the car.
So if you try hooking it up then running down to the shop what is going to happen? your going to burn up your new comressor since there isn't any oil lubing it, so if you can hook it up and leave the belts off and get to the shop to charge the system so be it, but I doubt you can.
my .02, take the new/used compressor to a shop that is ceritfied in A/C repair and pay then to install it and suck down the system, oil it and charge the system.
or try doing it your self like suggested and buy two compressors after you junk the one you just got.
So if you try hooking it up then running down to the shop what is going to happen? your going to burn up your new comressor since there isn't any oil lubing it, so if you can hook it up and leave the belts off and get to the shop to charge the system so be it, but I doubt you can.
my .02, take the new/used compressor to a shop that is ceritfied in A/C repair and pay then to install it and suck down the system, oil it and charge the system.
or try doing it your self like suggested and buy two compressors after you junk the one you just got.
#13
for old schoolers with training and experience- those types can DIY ac repairs and not have a problem. Some of us own the right tools~
the rest of you should use a professional and know its done right
As I said before- danger exist doing the freon! but wasnt thinking of damage to compressor going to a place...as I diy at home~
Good Point!
the rest of you should use a professional and know its done right
As I said before- danger exist doing the freon! but wasnt thinking of damage to compressor going to a place...as I diy at home~
Good Point!
#14
S E L L
well you guys are a little off. Don't instal the compressor unless you have the A/C charging station, to suck out all of the moister in the system, then verify the lines are not leaking by seeing that it holds vaccum, next the the freon has to be heated to generate pressure so that it will inter the system then you can start the car.
So if you try hooking it up then running down to the shop what is going to happen? your going to burn up your new comressor since there isn't any oil lubing it, so if you can hook it up and leave the belts off and get to the shop to charge the system so be it, but I doubt you can.
my .02, take the new/used compressor to a shop that is ceritfied in A/C repair and pay then to install it and suck down the system, oil it and charge the system.
or try doing it your self like suggested and buy two compressors after you junk the one you just got.
So if you try hooking it up then running down to the shop what is going to happen? your going to burn up your new comressor since there isn't any oil lubing it, so if you can hook it up and leave the belts off and get to the shop to charge the system so be it, but I doubt you can.
my .02, take the new/used compressor to a shop that is ceritfied in A/C repair and pay then to install it and suck down the system, oil it and charge the system.
or try doing it your self like suggested and buy two compressors after you junk the one you just got.
#15
Senior Moderator
:shakehead You are wrong. The A/C clutch spins freely when the A/C is off, it does not engage the compressor. Even if you wanted to you could not turn it on because there isn't any refrigerant in the system. That's what the high/low pressure switch is for, to prevent the clutch from engaging without any refrigerant in the system. He can install the compressor and drive down to the shop without any harm being done.
#16
Drifting
X 2, the pressure switch should keep it off. If you're paranoid disconnect the wiring connector to the clutch/compressor. You can leave the belt on.
Last edited by totaledTL; 03-30-2010 at 10:56 AM.
#17
thats what I thought- the compressor not being engaged,,you have to jumper the low pressure switch to get it going with no freon etc....but I have been wrong before
Thanks for making me right guys! I needed one today~
Thanks for making me right guys! I needed one today~
#18
Senior Moderator
Yep. Just dont try engaging the clutch till the system is vaced, oiled and freon is being added.
#20
AC IS NOW WORKING! I oiled the compressor, put it in changed the serpintine belt, changed the drier, vaced the system, oiled and the added freon. i did a leak test while at it everything is good!
#21
2003 TL-S w/Navi NBP
Probably too late now, but there are 4 bolts - 2 on the top side just under the alternator, and 2 on the bottom.
#22
2000 acura tl FPR
iTrader: (1)
haha yeah, we already knew about the 4 bolts, we had gotten the compressor off of the engine, but we couldn't get it out of the engine bay, we ended up taking the two front bolts off of the front subframe and used a good prybar and was able to get it out.
i changed the compressor because #1 the A/C wasn't working and the system had sufficient charge, but the main reason for the change was the bearing in the pulley was going bad and was slowly shredding away at the belt. needless to say the A/C still isn't working (i think it's in the wiring i'll find out wednesday) but the car is now driveable again and won't have to worry about shredding belts.
i changed the compressor because #1 the A/C wasn't working and the system had sufficient charge, but the main reason for the change was the bearing in the pulley was going bad and was slowly shredding away at the belt. needless to say the A/C still isn't working (i think it's in the wiring i'll find out wednesday) but the car is now driveable again and won't have to worry about shredding belts.
#23
was your car parked while your were overseas? parts hate that~ orings get dry...
#24
2003 TL-S w/Navi NBP
Did you remove the alternator first? The service manual says to do that. I have to do this soon, so am curious. Did you end up taking it out through the bottom or top of the engine bay?
#25
2000 acura tl FPR
iTrader: (1)
today i get a text from my brother and he told me not to try rewiring the compressor just yet, because he found out that the machine that charged my a/c system did not have oil in it so now it's just all freon in there. is there a way i can just add oil to the system?
other than that we charged the system to manu. spec. (i think it said 1.6KG under the hood?) oh yeah, and we fully evacuated the system before and after installing the new compressor.
we've checked the fuses, they all look good. we even changed the relay under the hood. it still blows warm air, no freon "enhanced" air.
if you are going to do this in your driveway/garage, i'd probably recommend you do it via removing the alternator. however we did this at the Cadillac dealership my brother works for and had all access to tools and lifts and what not. got the car in the air, took out the 4 mount bolts, undid the hoses, and had to impact the two front subframe bolts, and then took a good prybar and pried the subframe enough to get the compressor out. install is reversed.
#26
2003 TL-S w/Navi NBP
I'll be doing it this weekend. I have to change the condenser hose as well. The hose doesn't fit properly into the condenser due to the wreck. I hope it's just the hose fitment and not the mounting bracket on the condenser.
I will have to take it somewhere for the evac/recharge. Actually, I will get the evac done, see if it holds, then get it charged. Stupid question, but I assume they will oil it at the same time??? Or do I need to pour some oil in the compressor during install?
I will have to take it somewhere for the evac/recharge. Actually, I will get the evac done, see if it holds, then get it charged. Stupid question, but I assume they will oil it at the same time??? Or do I need to pour some oil in the compressor during install?
#27
If a shop is doing the evac- they test it for 20-30 minutes to confirm it holds, then they add a special oil and freon to the system
You are paying pro's for a reason
You are paying pro's for a reason
#28
any orings get the same special ac lube/oil applied before tightening
#29
2003 TL-S w/Navi NBP
Yeah, I figure I'll go ahead and pull all the lines and lube the o-rings while I'm changing the compressor and discharge hose. My dad is an old GM-trained car guy, and he says guys 'in the shop' just use Vaseline to lube the o-rings, but that may just be from 'back in the day'.
#30
Guy's you are forgetting to replace your Drier when changing the compressor. It could be a hit or miss but I'll recommend it its only a 35$ part. Better replace it than do so much work to change the compressor, then nothing working due to a faulty drier. Then having to drain fill and vac all over again!!
#31
2003 TL-S w/Navi NBP
Good point, although they don't really go faulty; they are basically a filter (little screen or fabric) and have a desiccant to absorb moisture. But just like changing other filters, it is safer to change it.
OEM are about $90, but parts store have generics for much cheaper. Any concensus about the aftermarket cheaper ones?
OEM are about $90, but parts store have generics for much cheaper. Any concensus about the aftermarket cheaper ones?
#32
the rec/dryer is very important IF the lines have been left open for any amount of time.(more than a day lets say)
If its had a leak problem for months- or sat without use due to problem- then definetly replace the rec/dryer as its been working hard to absorb moisture from the atmosphere so it doesnt get in and rust- killing the system
I would use a generic one on my own car without hesitation, very basic part
If its had a leak problem for months- or sat without use due to problem- then definetly replace the rec/dryer as its been working hard to absorb moisture from the atmosphere so it doesnt get in and rust- killing the system
I would use a generic one on my own car without hesitation, very basic part
#36
Expect to pay about 100$ for a Used OEM denso compressor. FYI- 1998-2002 ACCORD V6 MODELS ONLY, have the same compressor as the 99-03 TL. So it should be too hard to find one. Im running and Accord compressor on mine and its working great its the exact same part.
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