burnt smell
03-05-2010, 05:44 PM
#2
Check under carriage for a plastic shopping bag. My dad has had them stick to the hot underside of the car and you can smell it really strong, but most likely that isnt the problem. When I really push the car, at the next light I smell just a hint of burning.
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03-06-2010, 11:39 AM
#11
how many miles?
is there any sickly sweet smell with it?
Ck the radiator is max full when cold
ck coolant res tank when cold- fill to max and monitor daily for possible water pump leak
is there any sickly sweet smell with it?
Ck the radiator is max full when cold
ck coolant res tank when cold- fill to max and monitor daily for possible water pump leak
03-06-2010, 02:33 PM
#13
coolant is a funny sweet- one so odd its almost sickening
Water pump and timing belt done yet?
Water pump and timing belt done yet?
03-06-2010, 05:46 PM
#17
basically, look at the t/belt cover bolts and such (also crank bolt), and see if they have been touched somewhat recently
or pulling off the cover, and seeing if the belt looks to be NEW (not just in good condition), writing would stiil be somewhat readable on the belt itself
and if you have any doubt, i would just replace it, better safe then
or pulling off the cover, and seeing if the belt looks to be NEW (not just in good condition), writing would stiil be somewhat readable on the belt itself
and if you have any doubt, i would just replace it, better safe then
03-06-2010, 10:13 PM
#20
ok you have a real problem-
the TL should never use a drop of coolant, or run more than a tick or 2 below half on the temp guage
First- make sure the rubber tube inside the res cap is firmly attached to the cap- they like to fall off and into the bottle- when that happens fluid cant transfer
next fill the res bottle to cold max with 50/50 mix
Ck the radiator cap rubber seal
go to the parts store- borrow a `pressure tester` and pump the radiator to 16psi- watch for leaks, make sure heater is open too
if the water pump goes it usually leaks fluid out a special hole- built into it to warn you!!
Should drip onto floor under passenger side of engine and leaves a trail down from the holes- it may be crusty or dirt attached to the fluid line or spraying exhaust and making the smell
An `inspection mirror` can help you look under the pump from above, or put the car on ramps and watch for drip
Chances are very high the pump and timing belt were NOT done,
Ive never heard of a dealer doing a 105 on a used car out of goodness-presale
EXCEPT- some 02-03 get a recall timing belt/wp so service does that for the car- acura pays them- ck your vin- register at acura.com and see your cars account
The service dept is supposed to run your VIN,, but dont count on anything
Call acura care- 1-800-382-2238x5 register as the new owner and ask if any open recalls
May be part of the airbag recall too
Sales dept would have to put money out for any work done, they dont want to (if car doesnt sell in certain time frame it goes back to auction= lost money)
If you negotiate it into the sale --good for you- if not- good for them!
many people call the dealer and get a $1500+ quote for the 105 service,,decide to trade the car in and start over-
Used car dept looks it over if traqde in and says lets sell it, or it came in as an auction car
you can ask service dept if that car is known to them- ck by VIN
hopefully they have a maitenance history, 800 acura care can tell you what cities and years different owners are known to them, sometimes you can call the dealer at last known city and get some info from them..never know~
good luck!
the TL should never use a drop of coolant, or run more than a tick or 2 below half on the temp guage
First- make sure the rubber tube inside the res cap is firmly attached to the cap- they like to fall off and into the bottle- when that happens fluid cant transfer
next fill the res bottle to cold max with 50/50 mix
Ck the radiator cap rubber seal
go to the parts store- borrow a `pressure tester` and pump the radiator to 16psi- watch for leaks, make sure heater is open too
if the water pump goes it usually leaks fluid out a special hole- built into it to warn you!!
Should drip onto floor under passenger side of engine and leaves a trail down from the holes- it may be crusty or dirt attached to the fluid line or spraying exhaust and making the smell
An `inspection mirror` can help you look under the pump from above, or put the car on ramps and watch for drip
Chances are very high the pump and timing belt were NOT done,
Ive never heard of a dealer doing a 105 on a used car out of goodness-presale
EXCEPT- some 02-03 get a recall timing belt/wp so service does that for the car- acura pays them- ck your vin- register at acura.com and see your cars account
The service dept is supposed to run your VIN,, but dont count on anything
Call acura care- 1-800-382-2238x5 register as the new owner and ask if any open recalls
May be part of the airbag recall too
Sales dept would have to put money out for any work done, they dont want to (if car doesnt sell in certain time frame it goes back to auction= lost money)
If you negotiate it into the sale --good for you- if not- good for them!
many people call the dealer and get a $1500+ quote for the 105 service,,decide to trade the car in and start over-
Used car dept looks it over if traqde in and says lets sell it, or it came in as an auction car
you can ask service dept if that car is known to them- ck by VIN
hopefully they have a maitenance history, 800 acura care can tell you what cities and years different owners are known to them, sometimes you can call the dealer at last known city and get some info from them..never know~
good luck!
03-06-2010, 10:20 PM
#21
hmmm my 01 with 90 has been making a coolant smell- better go ck my own system!
been putting off the service, want to gather a few ziners with experience and do everyones car over a weekend
wholesalepartsguy- peoria group? acura in santa rosa ca has a special now for all the right belts-pullies and belt tensioner -water pump for the service for only 295$ shipped
thats awesome pricing and if you have a mechanic friend or you are DIYer- score on the parts and have at it
Its nothing more than bolts and gaskets- just a tight work area
ck your spark plugs- may be original as they are normally done with the 105
been putting off the service, want to gather a few ziners with experience and do everyones car over a weekend
wholesalepartsguy- peoria group? acura in santa rosa ca has a special now for all the right belts-pullies and belt tensioner -water pump for the service for only 295$ shipped
thats awesome pricing and if you have a mechanic friend or you are DIYer- score on the parts and have at it
Its nothing more than bolts and gaskets- just a tight work area
ck your spark plugs- may be original as they are normally done with the 105
03-07-2010, 11:51 AM
#24
honda or any brand that says specifically Approved for acura, most are now
03-07-2010, 11:53 AM
#25
realistically- assuming you have a bad coolant leak thats going to drain the coolant to repair, just add water to the res for now
Do the pressure test before you drive it again!!
If the pump is leaking you are hurting the engine-stop driving
Ck engine oil level as it will get used to help cool if wp fails~
Do the pressure test before you drive it again!!
If the pump is leaking you are hurting the engine-stop driving
Ck engine oil level as it will get used to help cool if wp fails~
03-07-2010, 08:22 PM
#26
realistically- assuming you have a bad coolant leak thats going to drain the coolant to repair, just add water to the res for now
Do the pressure test before you drive it again!!
If the pump is leaking you are hurting the engine-stop driving
Ck engine oil level as it will get used to help cool if wp fails~
Do the pressure test before you drive it again!!
If the pump is leaking you are hurting the engine-stop driving
Ck engine oil level as it will get used to help cool if wp fails~
my oil level is fine. the TL is my daily car so i can't stop driving it.
03-07-2010, 10:41 PM
#28
yes- parts store LOANS you tool with a fully refundable deposit so you bring it back
May be 50 bucks deposit- and kit will have all you need to test cap and radiator
plus they will give instructon,
test must be done cold- removing hot cap will cause second degree burns to your upper body
Much cheaper to rent a car for a day or 2 while the TL is down than blow a head gasket and still need the water pump and timing belt done
May be 50 bucks deposit- and kit will have all you need to test cap and radiator
plus they will give instructon,
test must be done cold- removing hot cap will cause second degree burns to your upper body
Much cheaper to rent a car for a day or 2 while the TL is down than blow a head gasket and still need the water pump and timing belt done
03-07-2010, 10:43 PM
#29
if the oil level starts going UP- the head gasket has blown
03-08-2010, 05:47 PM
#31
Nooo...Don't go out assuming...I highly doubt that its salt burning. Get everything checked out the right way and make sure....Just a fyi, my buddies head gasket on his Mini Coop just blew and it cost him close to 3300 for repair...Because once the gasket blows, all hell breaks loose.
03-08-2010, 05:58 PM
#32
bad engine/valve noises and loss of power.... and now you think its salt-
doesnt the wash remove the salt???
Your res bottle was empty-
its a storage bottle for fluid movement as hot and cold temps cause a rise in radiator level- it goes into the storage res then as engine cools- suction pulls it back into rad so it stays full
thats MAJOR issue to the life of the engine- should never get low level in rad or res- requires inspection of all hoses and pressure test system
temp guage should never be more than a tick below halfway, most run 2 ticks below half
By rise of oil level I meant: check it every day on the dipstick- pull it out- any foaming or brown or frothyness, any increase in indicated level- it was full yesterday and now its half an inch above full? and the res bottle is low again?
Wipe clean and reinsert-read again
doesnt the wash remove the salt???
Your res bottle was empty-
its a storage bottle for fluid movement as hot and cold temps cause a rise in radiator level- it goes into the storage res then as engine cools- suction pulls it back into rad so it stays full
thats MAJOR issue to the life of the engine- should never get low level in rad or res- requires inspection of all hoses and pressure test system
temp guage should never be more than a tick below halfway, most run 2 ticks below half
By rise of oil level I meant: check it every day on the dipstick- pull it out- any foaming or brown or frothyness, any increase in indicated level- it was full yesterday and now its half an inch above full? and the res bottle is low again?
Wipe clean and reinsert-read again
03-08-2010, 06:04 PM
#33
same for radiator-open cap when cold and level should be almost to the very top-
so when the cap is in place the fluid is at the rubber seal
Its a pressurized system- seal on cap starts the program
res should be a max cold full so you can measure if its changed each day
so when the cap is in place the fluid is at the rubber seal
Its a pressurized system- seal on cap starts the program
res should be a max cold full so you can measure if its changed each day
03-08-2010, 08:47 PM
#35
seems,, or is fine- at full mark and looks like clean good oil?
details will help us- but get the pressure testing done soon
details will help us- but get the pressure testing done soon
03-09-2010, 11:44 AM
#38
its a loaner tool not rental- call and verify amount- somewhere between 20 and 50 bucks, refunded when you return the tool
engine related reason the TL is not moving now?
engine related reason the TL is not moving now?
03-09-2010, 05:32 PM
#40
okay i got the test done. pressure was good. its $75 to "borrow" anyways if you guys were wondering.
i am also glad to say that i found the problem.
there is plastic stuck to my downpipe. i thought it was salt but when i tried to knock it off, it wont come off. next time i do an oil change i will scrape it off. i also filled up my RES tank to monitor that also even though i found the problem.
im just surprised the plastic still didnt burn off yet after about 3 weeks. it doesnt look like its gonna burn off anytime soon too. i'll try to get pictures up tmrw for future people on here.
i am also glad to say that i found the problem.
there is plastic stuck to my downpipe. i thought it was salt but when i tried to knock it off, it wont come off. next time i do an oil change i will scrape it off. i also filled up my RES tank to monitor that also even though i found the problem.
im just surprised the plastic still didnt burn off yet after about 3 weeks. it doesnt look like its gonna burn off anytime soon too. i'll try to get pictures up tmrw for future people on here.