sc354

So I installed my irotors today, and sure enough with my luck, the front rotors are totally warped...and I don't mean like TL rotors warped, I mean like a pulsating in the wheel and throughout the car at 40 km/h. I had the fronts taken off, and am back to stock in the fronts. I left the rear irotors on for now, and will be shipping the rotors back tomorrow.

Now I had the system re-bled, and I find that the pedal doesn't seem as stiff as before. The pedal seems to feel lower than before. Will the pressure build up as you use the brakes? Or will they feel like this for good, or until I re-bleed???

I have driven the car about 50 km, so I assume the pressure would have built up by now. Any ideas? I may have my mechanic re-bleed it, just to make sure that it's free of air.

Let me know

thanks

Darkshear

iTrader: (1)

the iRotors have known quality issues that multiple members have mentioned. The only rotors i am aware of that are a near-flawless solution for our cars are the Rotora's. Your brake pedal will change its feeling after the system has been bled, this is normal, however you should never be able to fully push the pedal to the floor, otherwise you should be fine, just stay on top of the fluid.

sc354

Quality isn't something I'm worried about. I already arranged to have them sent back tomorrow so they will send me a new front set of rotors.

As for the pedal, will it ever have a better feel than it already does? I mean the car still stops pretty well, I just find more pressure needs to be applied to stop the car.

BTW I put in Motul racing fluid in there, but I doubt that would give it a different pedal feel. Also, will putting the irotors with a new set of front pads change the way the pedal feels once I install those back in?

Keep in mind I have the stock pads back in there, which have only about 20% pad life on them...so maybe this is why the pedal is a little lower???

Any ideas?

muffaburn

Jeff, Your making me very nervous about the IROTORS from the group buy that I joined. My Acura mechanic is installing them on Wednesday. God-forbid mine will be warped, I will be highly pissed if I have to pay my mechanic twice. I saw a DIY where there was a piece on the Axxis pads that had to be cut or modified, any thoughts on that?

SMOGMASTER

IF YOU HAVE NOT REPLACED YOUR CALIPERS, YOU WOULD NOT EVEN HAVE TO BLEED THEM.
MAY BE YOUR IROTORS ARE THINNER THAN YOUR OLD ROTORS??

sc354

What I meant by quality isn't a concern of mine, is I'm not to worried as per the quality of these rotors. A number of members on this forum, have stated to me, and on the posts that irotors are excellent quality rotors. They are much better than stock rotors.

I mean we have to give irotors a break here. They do manufacture thousands of rotors, so I'm not too concerned if a few of them come out defective/warped. As long as they stand by their rotors, and are willing to admit when they are defective, I have no problems with them...

Honestly, you have nothing to worry about. You should be ok installing the rotors. I'm happy that I was the one who got the warped set, since I'm the one in contact with irotors, it is a lot more convenient since I don't have to be in contact with a second person. I'm sure you guys will be very pleased with the brake improvement.

I have the rears already installed, and it looks like it's bedding in nicely with the pad. I'm also having the front pads replaced. There's always gonna be a bad one in the batch, nothing anyone can do about it.

muffaburn

I'm just hoping my set are not a bad set out of the batch, like I said I just don't want to pay my mechanic twice. There being installed by my Acura mechanic (whom has installed my H&R's and my OBX heads) at a Acura dealership so I'm pretty sure he will know of any modifications that may be needed for the Axxis pads.

Darkshear

iTrader: (1)

The feel of the pedal can be changed by bleeding, different pads, and different fluid. all 3 of these affect the feel of the pedal. after i moved to the Axxis Ultimates i had a softer but smoother pedal feel, which i prefer. You should get the OEM pads off your new rotors, and get Ultimateson there or something equivelant. then you will see how your pedal is going to feel, nothing you can really do, the way it feels is the way it feels.

MADCAT

What about those BREMBOS they sell on www.tirerack.com? Are they worth $50-$53 USD?

fsttyms1

i agree, jeff just wait till you get the new rotors back on and then let them re bleed the system.

and darkshear, how can you like the ultimates? i have had them on for 3 weeks now and am ready to throw them away. they create sooo much brake dust they have good initial bite, but they arent as good when really hot. that and they are starting to squeel. the green stuff is a superior pad

shimbo519

you are having an Acura mechanic do this install for you?!?? You're gonna be paying an arm and a leg for an installation that shouldn't cost as much if you went to a private mechanic.

goldendragon576

wow....i'm keeping my fingers crossed I don't have a problem. Right now I'm really happy with the irotors with the metal master pads. But then again I haven't really stomped on them yet. not for another 300miles.

ResidualFreedom

shouldn't have put used pads on a new rotors. espically with only 20% of the pad left.... you will transfer crap from the old pads to the new rotors......that's why pads are a quarter of the price of rotors... a very good way to ruin your new rotors....I'd replace the rear pads right ASAP, before they scuff the rear rotors.

fsttyms1

he didnt. he had new pads put on the new irotors. something was wrong with one of the 2 to begin with.

i have over 2000 miles on my irotors now with out a problem, brake pads on the other hand are about ready to be thrown away. (axxis ultimates) in favor of a better pad (green stuff)

69ssrscam

Keep in mind that different pads are designed to operate at different temps. If you put on racing/high performance pads it will take a little more pedal pressure under normal driving conditions. It's when you drive them hard and get them up to their optimum operating temp that they really work well. Since you retained your stock pads (although I have no idea why you would do this when putting on performance rotors) I would guess that they haven't seated themselves to the new rotors yet, thus the need for a little more pedal pressure.

sc354

I think you misunderstood. I have the irotors on the rears with new EBC's on there, and stock pads and rotors on the front. I wouldn't dare use the used pads on new rotors...

I don't know if this is normal, but the rotor has a blackish colour to it in the rears. I assume this will occur during the break in period...anyone know why?

Hopefully I will get a new set of rotors up front, and new pads as well...I'll have the brakes re-bled again to improve the pedal feel.

fsttyms1

he had to put his stock brakes on because he had to take off the irotors, after he had the system blead. he had installed new green stuff pads when the rotors were installed

dj5

I agree with Darkshear and is why I bought and installed the Rotora rotors last week. They stop much smoother than the OEM rotors.

I went with the Axxis Deluxe Plus pads as I did not want all the dust from the Axxis Ultimates. Bled the brake system and refilled with Vavoline Super Syn brake fluid. There was no change in the feel of the brake pedal.

Darkshear

iTrader: (1)

Thats wierd, my Ultimates are awesome when they are hot. The other day i was crusing at 80 and had to do a quick stop, and those pads got so hot but god damn did they bite in to that rotor! ive noticed they do get better as they get hotter, but more important, they are akso excellent when they are cold.

The brake dust is unreal. Im kinda where you are, i have chrome wheels and im cleaning them twice a day now. the dust is fucking unreal... but the pads are that much better than the metal masters so i cant take them off... I have heard good things about EBC, but i dont have the $$$ to switch pads again... it rather just keep dusting them off after every time i drive the car for now...

fsttyms1

yea the bite on them is unreal, but after doing it consistantly over and over i didnt care for the feel of the pedal. i never had that with the green stuff.
yea i have to almost wash my wheels daily if i dont want them to be solid black. thats why i want to get the green stuff, but like you said i really dont want to waste more money on pads right now

69ssrscam

After reading these posts, I think I'll switch from Axxis Metal Master to the EBC Green Stuff. I haven't noticed a real problem with dust from the masters, maybe the ultimate produces more dust???

stinkboy

no one has said whether or not they did a proper break in of the new rotors and pads. if you didnt do it then there maybe nothing wrong with the rotors. you have to do several fast hard stops and some slower ones to seat the pads to the rotors. they are coated after all and that coating has to come off and the pads have to be seated to the rotors. im sure if you search the internet you will find the best way to break in new rotors/pads.

69ssrscam

Brake break in is as follows: 10 easy stops from 30 - 0, followed by 10 easy stops from 60 - 0 for pad seating. You should take it easy for the first 400 miles or so and try to avoid hard usage. This gives the pads & rotors a chance to seat and go through some heat cycles. This also helps prevent the rotors from warping later on. After 500 miles STAND on EM!!!

Dare_IL

Here is a good article on warped rotors and the break in of new pads.

http://www.ceramicbrakes.com/whitepa...otors_myth.htm

MADCAT

Have you ever watched a Formula 1 race where they do a pit stop? You'll see a s==t load of dust come off the F1 cars. Same in LeMans cars too.

muffaburn

Yea he his good friend of mine. He does the work at the dealership after hours. His prices are so much cheaper than the dealership or any private mechanic, and I know the job is getting done right cuz he's been an Acura mechanic for 15 years at the same dealership. Work he has done for me in the past
OBX header install=$120
H&R SportSprings=$120
Rotors & pads front & back + wheel alignment=$80
I can't go wrong with these prices. I just hope the new rotors won't be warped right out of the box when he installs them tomorrow....

fsttyms1

irotors doesnt want hard stops on the new rotors. they want gentil driving for 500 miles. after that then you do multiple hard stops to bed the pads

ResidualFreedom

Guess I miss understood?? Anyway to bleed you brakes all you need is a 8mm wrench and an xtra foot, so if the brake feels really soft, come by and we'll take care of it, 15min job, not even. You drive like a maniac - We don't want you flying into any divider barrels on the highway k

muffaburn

Well folks I got my Irotors and Axxis pads installed today. I think I'm in the same boat as SC354 with warped rotors right out of the box, my steering vibrates at about 40-50mph. My mechanic said to give it a few days, and if it persists bring the car back in and put the OEM's back on and send back the front rotors for replacements (this is exactly what I was trying to avoid as noted in my previous posts in this thread). Could there possibly be a break in period where the shaking steering wheel will go away once the pads have bedded? Any thoughts apprieciated, SC354 I need you to call me on my cell at some point to discuss this further (i'm a little upset as I know you are).

sc354

Now how bad is your vibration??? Mine were occurring at extremely low speeds, which is why I took mine off right away. If you aren't experiencing excessive brake pulsation, then it might be due to the rotors being brand new, and need to be broken in. If you can literally watch your hand pulsate as you hit the brakes, then there is definitely something wrong with the rotors.

If you don't feel uncomfortable driving the car, then take the brakes off, if not, give them 2-3 days and see if the problem persists. I will PM you in a few days...

take care.

muffaburn

It shakes around 40-50 mph and yes I can see my hand shaking. Not sure what mph converts to in kmh. I will give it a few days like my mechanic and you said, just kinda paranoid after hearing your situation and noticing the shakey stirring wheel at speeds where it wasn't shaking before. With the OEM's the shaking use to occur breaking from at around 65-75mph.

dj5

New rotors should not casue any vibration at any speed. I installed new
Rotora slotted rotors on all fours about 10 days ago, and have no vibration at any speed.

If it were me, I would take them off and send them back.

1fasttl

You should have installed new pads along with your irotors

muffaburn

2nd day with the new IROTORS with Axxis metalmaster pads, it seems the shaking has gone away, go figure? I guess the rotors just needed to get broken in a little they feel great for now, I am still in the "bedding" phase for the pads so no hard stops yet.