brakes
#1
brakes
im new to the acura tl world i have a set of back 18" wheels for my 2002 tl type s i want to up grade my brakes not sure about the whole slotted and drilled stuff but they sure would look good vs the rusty factory i have now i see alot of people talking about rotora or stop tech i dont want to break the back but i want it to look good and stop good lol!!any suggestions from people who have these setups i would realy appreciate it
#2
S E L L
I would look into buying Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors. They are great quality, well-made rotors that won't break the bank. They're also painted black on the hub and the outer edges of the rotor so that takes care of the rust look. I've got a set on the front of my TL that have been on there for about 20K miles with zero issues. No warping or paint flaking off and no noise.
#4
S E L L
#5
I would use autozone or kragen rotors over ebay for reliable brakes at reasonable cost
For the caliper/bracket/rotor edges rust- get a duplicolor brake caliper paint kit $10, in black and have fun
Keeps them show quality nice for attending ziner meets!
For the caliper/bracket/rotor edges rust- get a duplicolor brake caliper paint kit $10, in black and have fun
Keeps them show quality nice for attending ziner meets!
#7
cool thank you. i just want a good look and quality brakes r the slotted or cross drilled rotors better or should i stick to the oem ones i like the way the slotted/cross drilled look but i dont want to risk quality for looks as this is the family daily driver but i just got some rims and i want them to look good and not see the rusted rotors and caliper behind.thanks for your imput
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#8
even the most expensive rotors will get surface rust!
the way to prevent it is coat the metal with paint, like duplicolor hi temp `caliper paint`
slotted is bling for 90 percent of drivers- drilled bling for 95 percent
meaning those drivers will never use the benefits of the parts
OE brakes suck,
zone will sell oe equivilant quality, or kragen/oreilly has better- more performance oriented parts
cheap blank rotors drilled by someone with a cnc machine are a huge risk to your safety
get decent parts and the car will stop fine for everyday drivers
the paint will look good- see the many pics of ziners who have done it
the way to prevent it is coat the metal with paint, like duplicolor hi temp `caliper paint`
slotted is bling for 90 percent of drivers- drilled bling for 95 percent
meaning those drivers will never use the benefits of the parts
OE brakes suck,
zone will sell oe equivilant quality, or kragen/oreilly has better- more performance oriented parts
cheap blank rotors drilled by someone with a cnc machine are a huge risk to your safety
get decent parts and the car will stop fine for everyday drivers
the paint will look good- see the many pics of ziners who have done it
#10
of course,, avoid painting the main rotor face or back-face,,,
the part where the pad touches on the normally shiny part of the rotor-
I knew I should have put that or a ziner would think wow cool toootallllly blacked out rotors....
Its ok to paint over the inner and outer edges of the rotor slightly (the pads dont touch all the rotor surface as you can see by rust on old ones)
new brake pads will make fast work of removing excess paint within a few blocks of use~
the part where the pad touches on the normally shiny part of the rotor-
I knew I should have put that or a ziner would think wow cool toootallllly blacked out rotors....
Its ok to paint over the inner and outer edges of the rotor slightly (the pads dont touch all the rotor surface as you can see by rust on old ones)
new brake pads will make fast work of removing excess paint within a few blocks of use~
#13
hey jdtl, i'm in the market for new rotors and pads and saw your set, pretty sweet. how are they doing now, still good? you mind if i ask where you got them? was it online somewhere?
just trying to find some good breaks and a nice setup without breaking the bank. thanks for any help!
just trying to find some good breaks and a nice setup without breaking the bank. thanks for any help!
#14
try sending a PM
not everyone hangs on threads they have posted to~
not everyone hangs on threads they have posted to~
#16
MechEng
iTrader: (9)
i have EBC black dash slotted rotors and i have no complaints so far. got them from www.placeforbrakes.com
if your budget is higher i recommend going with Racingbrake rotors and pads
if your budget is higher i recommend going with Racingbrake rotors and pads
#17
i have EBC black dash slotted rotors and i have no complaints so far. got them from www.placeforbrakes.com
if your budget is higher i recommend going with Racingbrake rotors and pads
if your budget is higher i recommend going with Racingbrake rotors and pads
#18
whats your actual braking style- how much freeway 80mph to 20 OMG BRAKES!!!!! whoa that was close~ use, backroads thrashing, normal street driving, commute in stop and go 50 miles a day?
that will determine the best products for your needs and price range
cant go wrong with centric/stoptech for median price parts
drilled is bling more than slotted is! has applications for certain people only
also makes more noise and wears pads out faster
RB pads will work on any rotors and give excellent performance- I have et300s on kragen blank rears from china with no issues
Have done a comparison to HPS hawks and RB blows them away in my opinion
that will determine the best products for your needs and price range
cant go wrong with centric/stoptech for median price parts
drilled is bling more than slotted is! has applications for certain people only
also makes more noise and wears pads out faster
RB pads will work on any rotors and give excellent performance- I have et300s on kragen blank rears from china with no issues
Have done a comparison to HPS hawks and RB blows them away in my opinion
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 08-24-2010 at 11:08 PM.
#19
whats your actual braking style- how much freeway 80mph to 20 OMG BRAKES!!!!! whoa that was close~ use, backroads thrashing, normal street driving, commute in stop and go 50 miles a day?
that will determine the best products for your needs and price range
cant go wrong with centric/stoptech for median price parts
drilled is bling more than slotted is! has applications for certain people only
also makes more noise and wears pads out faster
RB pads will work on any rotors and give excellent performance- I have et300s on kragen blank rears from china with no issues
Have done a comparison to HPS hawks and RB blows them away in my opinion
that will determine the best products for your needs and price range
cant go wrong with centric/stoptech for median price parts
drilled is bling more than slotted is! has applications for certain people only
also makes more noise and wears pads out faster
RB pads will work on any rotors and give excellent performance- I have et300s on kragen blank rears from china with no issues
Have done a comparison to HPS hawks and RB blows them away in my opinion
thanks for the help!
#20
blank rotors are fine for you and cost less
iirc the green stuffs are street pads, and red more for agressive brakers
iirc the green stuffs are street pads, and red more for agressive brakers
#22
probably most of us with the slots dont need them, but they do look very cool~
drilled is for VERY wet rainy conditions, or living on a mountain use= with little time for pad and rotor cooling between heavy use
Then you want all the cooling and drying abilty possible, in trade for pad wear and noise
drilled is for VERY wet rainy conditions, or living on a mountain use= with little time for pad and rotor cooling between heavy use
Then you want all the cooling and drying abilty possible, in trade for pad wear and noise
#24
MechEng
iTrader: (9)
from what ive heard green stuffs are meh. lotta fade and stuff. like you might as well get OEM. but the opinions on those pads are mixed so idk who to believe.
as for me, i got yellow stuff (ordered red stuff but was sent yellow for no extra cost. oh well) and theyre fucking nuts. already saved me from a couple accidents. did a 115-30 hard slow down and they gave me no issues. no fade no nothing. they squeal like a wildebeest under light braking though for the first 300-500 miles. but overall i love them.
as for me, i got yellow stuff (ordered red stuff but was sent yellow for no extra cost. oh well) and theyre fucking nuts. already saved me from a couple accidents. did a 115-30 hard slow down and they gave me no issues. no fade no nothing. they squeal like a wildebeest under light braking though for the first 300-500 miles. but overall i love them.
#26
ya. i keep putting this off. prob not the best idea, but i thought i'd be dropping 800$ into new brakes+rotors. it's nice to know that, since i'm not a hardcore racer & don't need top of line brakes, i can get cheaperish rotors that'll do their job just fine. (i drive & have to stop & go a bit in rush hour traffic).
one question: if i look up front/rear rotors & pads on autozone's website, it basically only lists Duralast products for both. are duralast products worth a shit (for a typical driver), and are they even any better than our crappy ass oem ones?
one question: if i look up front/rear rotors & pads on autozone's website, it basically only lists Duralast products for both. are duralast products worth a shit (for a typical driver), and are they even any better than our crappy ass oem ones?
#27
It's the Halladay season!
iTrader: (5)
Anyone have access to their service manual and can look up the size of the front brake caliper bolts?
So far I've gotten 10x24 from acuraautomotive, which doesn't give me the pitch. I know it should be 1.5 or 1.25.
PN: 45240-SM4-003
Edit: Never mind. Found it. 14mm hex, M10x1.0, 24mm thread length. Guess I was off on the thread pitch.
So far I've gotten 10x24 from acuraautomotive, which doesn't give me the pitch. I know it should be 1.5 or 1.25.
PN: 45240-SM4-003
Edit: Never mind. Found it. 14mm hex, M10x1.0, 24mm thread length. Guess I was off on the thread pitch.
Last edited by hANDYcaptd; 08-31-2010 at 09:33 AM.
#28
duralast are fine,,,, better than oe quality, I run them on the kids cars
As long as you dont track day the TL at local race tracks,,
you will be ok for street use
As long as you dont track day the TL at local race tracks,,
you will be ok for street use
#29
handy- any story you want to share on the bolt issue?
I found some installed so hard-excess torque,,right from DEALER brake job~ that it ripped the threads out of the bracket and wrapped them onto the bolts!!
I found some installed so hard-excess torque,,right from DEALER brake job~ that it ripped the threads out of the bracket and wrapped them onto the bolts!!
#30
awesome. thanks
#31
performance brake pads and rotors have specific bedding/break in instructions for each maker
ck websites and follow to rid that noise, get proper heat cycles, and final pad material transfer layer to the rotor--makes it stop better and pads last longer when done right
one time test of 130-20mph means its good,,
but
take it to a track day where every 10-15 seconds you go from full throttle to max braking, then back on the throttle to next corner, max late braking, dive into the apex and get on the gas again
lap after lap for 20-30 minutes solid
THAT will show who has the badass brakes!
Note1 change/flush brake fluid before and after track days
Note2 change brake fluid with brake job!!!
do it every year for best brake effort possible
ck websites and follow to rid that noise, get proper heat cycles, and final pad material transfer layer to the rotor--makes it stop better and pads last longer when done right
one time test of 130-20mph means its good,,
but
take it to a track day where every 10-15 seconds you go from full throttle to max braking, then back on the throttle to next corner, max late braking, dive into the apex and get on the gas again
lap after lap for 20-30 minutes solid
THAT will show who has the badass brakes!
Note1 change/flush brake fluid before and after track days
Note2 change brake fluid with brake job!!!
do it every year for best brake effort possible
#32
will make sure i do it properly. since i've never done brakes myself before, i'll get help from my step-father who has done his share of rotors/pad replacements on several different types of cars.
last question....
in a broad way of thinking: (yes i'll refer to diy of course) replacing our rotors/pads isn't much different than your typical other type of car, right? i.e: no crazy parts i have to deal with, following specified bleeding order etc
last question....
in a broad way of thinking: (yes i'll refer to diy of course) replacing our rotors/pads isn't much different than your typical other type of car, right? i.e: no crazy parts i have to deal with, following specified bleeding order etc
#34
Drifting
will make sure i do it properly. since i've never done brakes myself before, i'll get help from my step-father who has done his share of rotors/pad replacements on several different types of cars.
last question....
in a broad way of thinking: (yes i'll refer to diy of course) replacing our rotors/pads isn't much different than your typical other type of car, right? i.e: no crazy parts i have to deal with, following specified bleeding order etc
last question....
in a broad way of thinking: (yes i'll refer to diy of course) replacing our rotors/pads isn't much different than your typical other type of car, right? i.e: no crazy parts i have to deal with, following specified bleeding order etc
#35
Drifting
... take it to a track day where every 10-15 seconds you go from full throttle to max braking, then back on the throttle to next corner, max late braking, dive into the apex and get on the gas again
lap after lap for 20-30 minutes solid
THAT will show who has the badass brakes!....
lap after lap for 20-30 minutes solid
THAT will show who has the badass brakes!....
Or just speaking in general?
#36
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
STOPTECH/Powerslot is definitely a good choice. I'd match it up with STOPTECH Performance pads. Good performance, good quality, great price.
http://store.excelerateperformance.com
http://store.excelerateperformance.com
#37
ya, i typed what i meant the wrong way. i'll follow that for sure. i make sure like 20x that i do something the proper way before attempting. thanks though
looks enticing. i wonder how much more worth it those are over the basic duralasts i was thinking of getting from the zone. mind you, im on a budget & just do your typical highway/some city driving
STOPTECH/Powerslot is definitely a good choice. I'd match it up with STOPTECH Performance pads. Good performance, good quality, great price.
http://store.excelerateperformance.com
http://store.excelerateperformance.com
#38
I'v had Stoptech d/s rotors with Centric ceramic pads for over 3 years and have had NO problems what so ever. Remember to flush your brake fluid every 2 years ! Just my
#39
takin care of Business in
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STOPTECH/Powerslot is definitely a good choice. I'd match it up with STOPTECH Performance pads. Good performance, good quality, great price.
http://store.excelerateperformance.com
http://store.excelerateperformance.com
powerslot + stoptech OR
powerslot + HAWK HPS
#40
web& reminder to all:
flush/bleed order--suggested to be done before brake work so crud is not backwashed into system = damaged orings
and done annually to protect expensive parts that are getting old
wiki hygroscopic for why and you will change all the fluids!!
LF= driver front, then clockwise around the car- as viewed from seated driver position
LF RF RR LR
use DOT 4 normal use or DOT 5.1 (racers) fluid
NEVER straight 5.0 which has silicones that are bad for our systems
flush/bleed order--suggested to be done before brake work so crud is not backwashed into system = damaged orings
and done annually to protect expensive parts that are getting old
wiki hygroscopic for why and you will change all the fluids!!
LF= driver front, then clockwise around the car- as viewed from seated driver position
LF RF RR LR
use DOT 4 normal use or DOT 5.1 (racers) fluid
NEVER straight 5.0 which has silicones that are bad for our systems