Ok, so the typical answer for a pulsating brake pedal or wobbling steering wheel under braking suggests warped rotors. I'm sure that's not my case. Here's the background...

2002 TL-S with 122K miles, 2006 TL transmission, recent engine mounts, stock suspension, stock everything except DC headers actually. Tires are Continental DW and are extremely well balanced and smooth.

So, for quite a while, I noticed that while braking at higher speeds, I could hear and feel what seemed to be warped rotors in the rear. I lived with it for a while, then decided it was time to do an almost full brake service. So I changed the pads, rotors, and replaced all the little hardware pieces using the local Autozone for parts.
After replacing these parts, I noticed an improvement, but I could still notice what seemed like warped rotors in the rear as I could feel a wobble when braking at higher speeds. Now, 5000+ miles, I still have it and it seems the fronts are starting shake as well, only slightly now. Again, while braking at higher (highway) speeds.
I can tell you I am the only one who has touched this car since the brake change, I do my own wheel rotations and if I ever remove a wheel, I always use a torque wrench to ensure accurate lug nut torque.

The suspension is stock and original. I have checked for play in the ball joints and bushings and everything seems normal. This is an Arizona car and still looks brand new underneath. I'm sure I'll be due for a strut replacement soon, but they honestly feel pretty good to me right now. I do have another car that's due for struts, so I know what it feels like when the struts go out!

So my question, is there anything else that could cause what feels just like warped rotors shaking, but isn't actually warped rotors? Thanks for any advice.

 

You have replaced the rears but are you sure its not the fronts causing it? While it may seem like its coming from the rear it may be the fronts.

Things to inspect are all the suspension links and joints to make sure they are tight with no play. Its really hard to know if they have play in them with the force of the shock pushing on them. You may need a prybar to get the leverage to tell. Also shocks can be bad and yet not ride like they are blown. WIth the age and miles of the car they started to give up life quite some time ago.

 

I replaced the pads and rotors on all 4 corners. Some good points!

 

Any possibility your traction control is kicking your abs on a certain wheel?

Malfunctioning sensor telling the computer one wheel is faster than the other or something to that effect?

Not an expert on this car, or the traction control/ABS system. I'm sure someone who is will pop in though.

Just a thought.

Maybe try turning it off though?

Any difference if the emergency brake is applied independently?

 

If the steering wheel is wobbling while braking it typically is a condition called "brake judder" which means your rotors have failed and need to ne replace.


Always replace brakes and rotors together in this case. Find a quality set of rotors with brake pads and check the condition of the fluid before install. Also follow the proper brake in procedures for your brakes.


With the wheel off also make sure to grind any rust or road build up off the hub and the rear of the rim. Even though it`s from "Arizona" keep it mind.

 

I also have a persistent problem with this - I have found that re-torquing the lug nuts to spec (80 ft-lbs) can make the shudder go away.

 

I did not see Brake Fluid Flush in the listed work
So that's where I would start
Supposed to do it every year, max 3 years between flushes per acura owner book
and common sense, wiki hygrophobic for why

when there is compressed moisture and micro rust particles in caliper it will make the brake shake as the pads are not being pushed correctly = the pressure is off inside the caliper due to the crud

NOTE Special TL bleed-flush order is driver front then clockwise LF RF RR LR
yes the order matters, suggest you use DOT4 fluid
1.5 qts does a good job, may as well use up the whole 2 qts- more clean fluid thru the system is not bad. Opened can of brake fluid goes bad in 6 months- the hygroscopic thing again- sucks moisture right from the air

 

You're right, I haven't done a brake fluid flush. I NEED to get that done.

I would imagine that if it was an ABS sensor issue, I'd have a warning light of some sort.

I'll get the system flushed here soon and see what happens.

 

if you let a shop do it- watch! tell them it must be done as LF RF RR LR
anything else is not going to get the crud out correctly
its due to ABS plumbing

DOT3 was the current spec fluid 15 years ago, DOT4 is the current spec and covers all dot3 needs plus some

 

I feel the same in my 2013 ilx. It's new so I don't believe the rotors are bad. But at high speeds the brakes feel like they pulsate.
When I say high speeds I just mean going from 35 to a stop... not freeway speeds.

And I couldn't exactly pin point it to the rear.