My wife called me this morning and told me that the brake light came on while she was driving and it shut off shortly after and then the cel came on!
I checked the brake fluid level and it's fine. What can it be?
I replaced the rotors calipers and pads almost a year ago.

 

The float on the brake cap causes this. Make sure the cap is clean and the float moves freely.

 

I totally agree

and as a side note: did you flush the brake fluid with the rest of the brake job

 

No I didn't flush the fluid because it was done the previous year.

 

acura does suggest annual brake fluid flush,,especially as our car ages
you live where it snows and rains or is humid etc
It never hurt to have clean fresh fluid

wiki-- hygroscopic -- for why this type fluid sucks/absorbs mositure.. right out of the air!! which destroys the fluid and the expensive/important parts its in contact with.
Not to be confused with hydroscopic-- which is the ability to see underwater

 

TSB on these caps and the strainer inside. I think the float gets saturated, and/or the the float binds on the strainer.
Talk to the friendly Acura dealership guys for the parts, you need a cap/float and a strainer. Just ask for the brake light TSB related to the float and cap.

 

Had this happen on a few under zero degree days.

Went away by its self.

 

Mine did it at 38s most of the time only when it was cold, withing 20mins of starting the car it would happen and never come back.
But this is what fixed my car!

 

well, i checked the brake fluid level and it was EMPTY!! So i jacked up the car and the whole front left wheel was soaked in fluid.Maybe i didnt tighten the brake line bolt enough last time i checked? Or maybe over tighten??? where else can i check? I filled up the fluid and went for a ride to test the brakes and everything is fine. I think i'm going to change the washer on that side and do a complete flush of the brake fluid.

 

the brake line to caliper has 2 crush washers, one on each side of the fitting

These are ONE USE washers,,meaning always replace once loosened
remember,,buy 2 !!

Did you have that line off for some reason?

Otherwise look inside the caliper- the seal can fail on the piston and every time you push the pedal,,

as you had a massive leak/empty master = potential for air in system:
After first full bleed, do the 2 ABS active stops from 45mph
if 2nd stop had firmer pedal there was air in the abs controller-
now its been pushed into the system and you have to rebleed all 4!

 

Can I change only the seal in the caliper or do I have to change the entire caliper?
I will change the crush washers first and see what happens.

 

If it's the caliper leaking, and not just the washers, I'd recommend replacing the caliper. They've gotten so cheap, it's hardly worth the time investment. You really need media blasting equipment to properly get the rust out of the dust boot groove, etc. if you intend to rebuild.

 

^ What he said.
If it's leaking past the piston inside the caliper get another caliper.
It's like an engine, if it's scored it gets a short block, same for the caliper it leaks past, then it's BAD. Replace it.

 

Problem found and solved!!! Caliper!!
So now I have 4 new rotors pads and calipers!!

 

Legend Calipers Time?
Cuz for some Dumb Reason OEM are more Expensive..