brake job nightmare
12-03-2006, 03:00 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
brake job nightmare
Ok....so I've done brakes on several of my cars before, but THIS time was total hell. Let me warn you that if you do NOT have plenty of good tools, either leave it to someone else, or prepare to spend extra $ on mulitple trips to the parts house.
I changed out the front pads and rotors on my 2000 TL yesterday....Rotora slotted rotors with OEM Honda pads. I had a socket set w/ a small ratchet, an impact driver and hammer, a C-clamp and wire hanger and of course the pads and rotors. Problem #1....the 11/16" larger bolts of the caliper were almost impossible to remove they were on so tight. I had to go buy a longer ratchet to get enough leverage to get them off.....about $25. I move on to removing those little rotor screws that should all be sent to hell according to the DIY write up. I used an impact driver and out of all 4 on both rotors I only got 2 out! I was able to get them out on my previous Honda Civic. I tried liquid wrench stuff to loosen them and nothing worked. I had to drill out 2 of the screws....another trip to the store to buy a good enough bit....sat there for 30-45 min on each screw drilling them out. Problem #2, I go do the passenger side and again the 11/16" bolts don't budge...not even using this $25 ratchet I'd just bought and used on the other side....back to the parts house for a HUGE breaker bar w/ an 11/16" adapter.....worked 1st time. All in all, the job was total hell, multiple trips to the store to buy better tools, hours wasted using the crappy tools I had trying to remove bolts before I finally bought more tools....hours wasted drilling out those stupid screws, busted knuckles from the ratchet slipping while trying to get the bolts off etc. Took like 7.5 hours to do the job that normally takes 1-4 hrs...I was pissed. I spent like $60 in parts for an impact driver, a ratchet that I ended up stripping out anyway, this PB rust remover/liquid wrench, a breaker bar w/ 11/16" adapter and decent drill bits. I felt like I'd been beaten with a baseball bat afterward because i was so sore from fighting those bolts. It's rather amusing now but wasn't yesterday.
In conclusion, everything finally went together right, brakes are smooth and feel great and I'm doing my break-in period now. My only question is I seem to notice where the pads touch the rotors as the shiny coating is worn off.....I did clean both rotors w/ brake cleaner before I installed them to get the oily stuff off....but are my brakes dragging or is that normal to wear off an outer coating? I did push the piston back into the caliper and all the necessary steps. I hear no noises or dragging of the brakes. For those of you that do these yourself.....have air tools, or a HUGE long ratchet and be prepared to drill those damn screws out....even the impact didn't work. It was awful! At least if I do these next time....no more screws (not needed!) and I didn't tighten the bolts so hard! So beware before you tackle this job....it doesn't always turn out as easy as you think!
I changed out the front pads and rotors on my 2000 TL yesterday....Rotora slotted rotors with OEM Honda pads. I had a socket set w/ a small ratchet, an impact driver and hammer, a C-clamp and wire hanger and of course the pads and rotors. Problem #1....the 11/16" larger bolts of the caliper were almost impossible to remove they were on so tight. I had to go buy a longer ratchet to get enough leverage to get them off.....about $25. I move on to removing those little rotor screws that should all be sent to hell according to the DIY write up. I used an impact driver and out of all 4 on both rotors I only got 2 out! I was able to get them out on my previous Honda Civic. I tried liquid wrench stuff to loosen them and nothing worked. I had to drill out 2 of the screws....another trip to the store to buy a good enough bit....sat there for 30-45 min on each screw drilling them out. Problem #2, I go do the passenger side and again the 11/16" bolts don't budge...not even using this $25 ratchet I'd just bought and used on the other side....back to the parts house for a HUGE breaker bar w/ an 11/16" adapter.....worked 1st time. All in all, the job was total hell, multiple trips to the store to buy better tools, hours wasted using the crappy tools I had trying to remove bolts before I finally bought more tools....hours wasted drilling out those stupid screws, busted knuckles from the ratchet slipping while trying to get the bolts off etc. Took like 7.5 hours to do the job that normally takes 1-4 hrs...I was pissed. I spent like $60 in parts for an impact driver, a ratchet that I ended up stripping out anyway, this PB rust remover/liquid wrench, a breaker bar w/ 11/16" adapter and decent drill bits. I felt like I'd been beaten with a baseball bat afterward because i was so sore from fighting those bolts. It's rather amusing now but wasn't yesterday.
In conclusion, everything finally went together right, brakes are smooth and feel great and I'm doing my break-in period now. My only question is I seem to notice where the pads touch the rotors as the shiny coating is worn off.....I did clean both rotors w/ brake cleaner before I installed them to get the oily stuff off....but are my brakes dragging or is that normal to wear off an outer coating? I did push the piston back into the caliper and all the necessary steps. I hear no noises or dragging of the brakes. For those of you that do these yourself.....have air tools, or a HUGE long ratchet and be prepared to drill those damn screws out....even the impact didn't work. It was awful! At least if I do these next time....no more screws (not needed!) and I didn't tighten the bolts so hard! So beware before you tackle this job....it doesn't always turn out as easy as you think!
12-03-2006, 03:17 PM
#2
...::AOA::...
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Falmouth, MA
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my brakes were easy as hell to do. i also drilled out the little screws, and thats only because i didnt have the impact screwdriver that you hit with a hammer (that thing works pisser). anyway, all my bolts came off easy. a tip for you, when you need more leverage on a ratchet, just put a piece of pipe over it. no need to spend more money. you can do almost all your work on your car with a 3/8" drive ratchet, and occasionally need the pipe for leverage.
and your rotors will become somewhat glazed and will not be as shiny as when you pulled them out of the box.
good luck with em! every job is a new experience
and your rotors will become somewhat glazed and will not be as shiny as when you pulled them out of the box.
good luck with em! every job is a new experience
12-03-2006, 06:20 PM
#5
Kilos of yayo in
When me and my friend did it we had no real trouble with the bolts on tha caliper at all. Those two little screws though were a complete pain. We tried using the impact driver and it only stripped the scewheads. Had to drill them out just like you did but since we only had a rechargeable drill we had to keep waiting for it to charge so it ended up taking many many hours. Oh well as you said next time should be alot easier, at least that is what I told myself afterward. I am doing my rears soon and really hope that goes alot better.
12-03-2006, 07:36 PM
#6
Advanced
Yeah, I had so much trouble getting all the nuts off that I ended up giving up and taking it to a local shop. I ended up only replacing one rotor and one set of pads on my own. on one of them, I managed to get all the screws and nuts off, but then the rotor wouldn't budge. It was a pretty awful day, I feel your pain.
12-04-2006, 08:38 AM
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Billy Sacco
When me and my friend did it we had no real trouble with the bolts on tha caliper at all. Those two little screws though were a complete pain. We tried using the impact driver and it only stripped the scewheads. Had to drill them out just like you did but since we only had a rechargeable drill we had to keep waiting for it to charge so it ended up taking many many hours. Oh well as you said next time should be alot easier, at least that is what I told myself afterward. I am doing my rears soon and really hope that goes alot better.
That is one reason it took me all day...1 rechargeable drill with neither battery fully charged. I probably spent 2+ hours just on those screws not counting dealing w/ the seized caliper bolts. Even liquid wrench didn't help.
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12-04-2006, 09:51 AM
#8
Senior Moderator
A. all our bolts are Metric.
B. always use the largest size socket wrench possible. 1/2 inch ratchets make life easier when trying to remove bolts.
c. 9 dollars on a milwaukee cobalt drill bit and you would have drilled out those bolts in 10 sec each.
d. Craftsman took kits are great.
Well at least at the end of the day you can say "I" did it! Nothing quite like knowing you did the job yourself.
B. always use the largest size socket wrench possible. 1/2 inch ratchets make life easier when trying to remove bolts.
c. 9 dollars on a milwaukee cobalt drill bit and you would have drilled out those bolts in 10 sec each.
d. Craftsman took kits are great.
Well at least at the end of the day you can say "I" did it! Nothing quite like knowing you did the job yourself.
12-04-2006, 10:33 AM
#9
Racer
I just did my brakes over the summer (Rotora rotors and H2 ceramic pads) and I didn't think it was too bad. All I needed was the correct sockets, used a breaker bar for leverage, WD40 to let the bolts/screws soak (recommended), impact driver and mini sledge hammer. Worked like a charm and took about 5 hours to do all 4. First one took the most (obviously) and it got faster with each wheel.
12-04-2006, 09:19 PM
#10
I need 2 more gears
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you need a 1/2" drive raquet if you work on your own car. I have a killer old school raquet. the thing weighs a solid pound by itself, then I bought solid extensions, 4", 8" and 12". the 12" is like a friggin' breaker bar in itself. it makes removing bolts a whole lot easier. I recently changed my front motor mount on my 99 tl, which has 139k on it and those bolts didn't want to budge until I pulled out that 1/2" drive and it was a piece of cake to brake those suckers loose. I plan on changing my brakes in the late spring early summer and that raquet will again come in handy.
12-06-2006, 03:06 PM
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by sbuswell
you need a 1/2" drive raquet if you work on your own car. I have a killer old school raquet. the thing weighs a solid pound by itself, then I bought solid extensions, 4", 8" and 12". the 12" is like a friggin' breaker bar in itself. it makes removing bolts a whole lot easier. I recently changed my front motor mount on my 99 tl, which has 139k on it and those bolts didn't want to budge until I pulled out that 1/2" drive and it was a piece of cake to brake those suckers loose. I plan on changing my brakes in the late spring early summer and that raquet will again come in handy.
12-07-2006, 03:21 PM
#12
@ slide or die @
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
A. all our bolts are Metric.
B. always use the largest size socket wrench possible. 1/2 inch ratchets make life easier when trying to remove bolts.
c. 9 dollars on a milwaukee cobalt drill bit and you would have drilled out those bolts in 10 sec each.
d. Craftsman took kits are great.
...
B. always use the largest size socket wrench possible. 1/2 inch ratchets make life easier when trying to remove bolts.
c. 9 dollars on a milwaukee cobalt drill bit and you would have drilled out those bolts in 10 sec each.
d. Craftsman took kits are great.
...
you are also not hitting the impact hammer hard enough...trust me, you will not even tickle the hub. get a BFH and try to break the impact hammer you have. it'll do the job. this is about the only tedious part of the job. gl.
12-07-2006, 06:54 PM
#13
it's all about the tools. If you have the proper tools, you can do anything. I remember, my friend owned a compressor, air gun, sockets, and wrenches and were able to do anything quickly. bbk upgrades, engine mounts, swaps, you name it.
12-18-2006, 10:57 AM
#14
When you go to do the rears, there may be an issue with the parking brake holding the rotor hub on. They are a mini set of drum brakes on the inside of the hub. There is a rubber plug on the hub, inside that at the bottem of wheel rotation- is a standard star/adjusting wheel as seen on all old school drum brakes. Loosen to release tension using a brake adjuster tool and long skinny screwdriver. A couple of good whacks with the deadblow hammer or similar mallet on the brake rotor itself, will do wonders to breaking the years old bond between parts.
When putting it back together, a small amount of anti-sieze compound on the obvious contact/wear areas is a good idea.
The park brake shoes are not very thick normally, and if they look toasted- I let a shop do that-looks like a major pain to do yourself -to me at least
After installing the rear rotors, -stop- adjust parking brakes so they have a slight dragging sound- SLIGHT I said- once you put the disc brake pads in it is harder to hear and feel when there is park brake drag.
I am really impressed with my new HAWK HPS brake pads, the car simply STOPS!!
So well in fact that now I want new Tokiko struts to eliminate the nose drop on weight transfer
When putting it back together, a small amount of anti-sieze compound on the obvious contact/wear areas is a good idea.
The park brake shoes are not very thick normally, and if they look toasted- I let a shop do that-looks like a major pain to do yourself -to me at least
After installing the rear rotors, -stop- adjust parking brakes so they have a slight dragging sound- SLIGHT I said- once you put the disc brake pads in it is harder to hear and feel when there is park brake drag.
I am really impressed with my new HAWK HPS brake pads, the car simply STOPS!!
So well in fact that now I want new Tokiko struts to eliminate the nose drop on weight transfer
12-18-2006, 11:02 AM
#15
When you need a specialty tool you don't have, most big chain auto parts stores like Pepboys Kragen Autozone and all their offshoot names, have a LOANER tool program, just leave a deposit-easy.
Of course, a friend with a compresser is the best tool of all!
Of course, a friend with a compresser is the best tool of all!
12-24-2006, 03:12 AM
#16
Kilos of yayo in
Wow just got done doing my rear brakes jeez. It took a few hours and really only because of me stripping one of the bolts (turned wrong way drrrrr) and those damn little screws were left on one of my rear rotors. Had to drill out the two screws and that took a while. Overall had no trouble with the bolts though. My big ass ratchet and breaker bar helped a ton! If you guys have harbor freight in your area check it out. Pretty darn good tools for very cheap!
12-24-2006, 03:42 AM
#18
Kilos of yayo in
Only part that is a pain really is those two little screws on the rotor. If you have air tools it should be no problem. I tried using the impact screwdriver people recommended on here and it did not work on any of them for me.
12-24-2006, 10:38 AM
#19
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by Billy Sacco
Only part that is a pain really is those two little screws on the rotor. If you have air tools it should be no problem. I tried using the impact screwdriver people recommended on here and it did not work on any of them for me.
12-26-2006, 08:35 AM
#20
Originally Posted by Billy Sacco
Only part that is a pain really is those two little screws on the rotor. If you have air tools it should be no problem. I tried using the impact screwdriver people recommended on here and it did not work on any of them for me.
12-26-2006, 12:57 PM
#21
Kilos of yayo in
Yeah me and my buddy had it going the right way. I only had a rubber mallet so that might have been part of it. But we soaked the screws in penetrating oil and wacked the crap out of them for a while and all it did was strip the face of em. I drilled all of them out anyhow screw those things. Next brake job will take 20 minutes at the most now.
12-26-2006, 02:34 PM
#22
A RUBBER MALLET to strike the IMPACT driver
hmmmmmmm
Now there is a great example of using the right tool for the job!
hmmmmmmm
Now there is a great example of using the right tool for the job!
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