I've searched and read a bunch of thread but nothing seemed to be exactly like mine so I just wanted to make sure.

Yesterday, 50 miles ago, I installed new rotors so I had to use a C clamp to push the piston back in for the caliper to fit. I didnt bleed the brakes yet although I did bleed them 6 months ago when I installed new pads. I used almost an entire bottle so all the old fluid should of been out.

Today on the way home, I noticed my BRAKE indicator is constantly. I instantly check the e-brake but it isnt on. I made sure the contact switch was stuck or anything but it appears this like is ONLY on when in DRIVE. Not in Park, Reverse or Nuetral. In those situations the BRAKE indicator comes on as it should when I have the e-brake on.

I checked the fluid as other have suggested but it was full to the rim. Maybe I put too much in?? Dont think so. I also wiggled the floater on the cap and wiggled the cap a couple of times. Nothing helped so I am lost as what else it could be.

Any more advice would be greatly appreciated. I read the manual which said check the fluid level. Dont know what else it could be.

 

I'm curious,
Why would you bleed the brakes for a simple rotor/pad change? Unless you disconnect any portion of brake line sytem, there is absolutely no reason to do so. Unless, of course, you are just doing it to replace the old fluid in the system. As to your question, you have me stumped.

Iggy

 

Its always recomended to crack the bleeder valve and get rid of te imediate fluid durring brake change, then procede to bleed the system

 

So any ideas bout the brake indicator?

 

I have the same problem but only in the morning when it's cold ,stays on for a while and then goes away. What can cause this?

 

Page 264 of the '99 Owner's Manual indicates that if the brake light stays on after the engine is started, then there's a problem with the car's brake system, usually low fluid in the reservoir.

 

Thanks but I've checked the fluid as per the manual. Just wondering if anyone has a similar situation that knows specifically what the problem may exactly be. It is only ON when in Drive and nothing else.

 

I've got an idea...

Check you brake fluid resivour, if the cap is off the resivour the warning light will come on. This happened to me after I changed the rotors on my TL... The danm thing was getting me worried, until I noticed the damn cap to the resivour, it was on but not turned the half turn to lock.

Need less to say I locked it on (took a over a min to get the damn thing on) and the light went off...

Did you ever take the cap to the brake fluid off? if you did them I'd bet that's your problem. The damn lid only goes on one way and locks. YOu could have it back wards and it'll almost fit, it won't have enough slack on the cables (attached to the lid) to do the half turn and lock, if it doesn't lock then your warning lights will come on..

I hope that fixed your prob... keep us updated

 

During the install I did not remove the cap, when i checked i removed the back but I put it back on correctly where the arrow points towards the front of the car. I turned it was tight as I could as well.

After I installed the rotors this did happen. I had to push all the way down on the brake pedal a few times before it would even begin to brake. I was surprised and hit the e-brake right away and kept pumping the brake pedal until i could feel it. The pedal just sank to the bottom with ease.

 

Lights usually mean codes. Get the codes checked for free at AutoZone or some other place.

as an aside...

Here's a cool link for deciphering OBD II codes.

 

If the pedal sunk to the floor I would be led to believe that there is air in your lines.. You'll have to bleed them, that should take away all the "soft" feeling in the brakes. Your brakes should be tight and firm, you shouldn't need to pump them to raise the pressure in the lines. If you do, that could mean you are compressing the air in the lines when you pump the pedal, and then the pressure is great enough to work the brake caliper. Air compresses, liquid doesn't, that's why we have oil in the brake lines, if air was used it wouldn't build enough pressure to work the caliper as neded. With oil, the pressure is sent directly from the pedal to the caliper without compressing, thus giving enough pressure to work the caliper. If you were to get air and oil in the lines you would have to pump the brakes more than normal to get them to work , and they would feel very soft when the car is turned on.

It doesn't take much to bleed the brakes, I would suggest that before takingthe car anywhere or buying anything.

 

It was just the first 3 or 4 pumps after the rotors were installed after that, they are complete firm again. The first 3 or 4 pumps the car would not brake at all, not even the slightest. Now it works fine.

 

You used a C clamp to push in the pistons. When you put everything back together it will take a few pumps to get the pistons back to where they engage the new pads. That's normal. However. be careful on how far you push the pistons in with the C clamp while trying to get the new pads in. Pushing them in too far could risk damage. I usually push them in only enough for the caliper to get around the new pads.


Not to alarm you - but I know people who have also damaged seals in their master cylinder by pumping the brake all of the way to the floor during brake bleeding. I usually don't pump any more than 1/2 way or so - small quick pumps.

Good luck.

 

Anyone with a helms manual that documents this?? Now it doesnt the brake indicator only comes on when it is in DRIVE and nothing else even when it is engaged.

 

mine now lights up in the morning when it's cold and then goes away after a few mins but goes on when i press the brakes,it has gotten worse over the weeks.