blinking green light????
blinking green light????
what is the blinking green light with a diagram of a key on it in the instrument panel of the dash? it blinks even after i turn the car off and pull the key out of hte ignition.
Re: blinking green light????
Originally posted by TLover8888
what is the blinking green light with a diagram of a key on it in the instrument panel of the dash? it blinks even after i turn the car off and pull the key out of hte ignition.
what is the blinking green light with a diagram of a key on it in the instrument panel of the dash? it blinks even after i turn the car off and pull the key out of hte ignition.
Originally posted by TUFF GONG
Open the glove box and you will find your answer in this little book called a "Owners manual"
Hehe, I believe it regards the Immobolizer. (I haven't read about it myself
)
Open the glove box and you will find your answer in this little book called a "Owners manual"
Hehe, I believe it regards the Immobolizer. (I haven't read about it myself
)
damn, no need for sarcasm :p
Re: Re: blinking green light????
Originally posted by pianoman41
Check your manual. It's the icon for the theft immobilizer system. Once you pull the key out, it's telling you it's activated and won't start the car unless the chip in the key activates the ignition system. I believe if you stick a non-chipped key into the ignition it will flash as well.
Check your manual. It's the icon for the theft immobilizer system. Once you pull the key out, it's telling you it's activated and won't start the car unless the chip in the key activates the ignition system. I believe if you stick a non-chipped key into the ignition it will flash as well.
thank you pianoman41...
HELP! Immobilizer green light flashing!
Okay guys, I need to get some info if you can help. I have an 2000 Acura TL with 280,000 and going strong. I was going drown the highway and a green light started flashing on the dash. I had no idea what that was so I immediately stopped to get the owners manual to see what it was. I turned the car off to check and it said it was the immobilizer which reads the chip in the key. It says it comes on when the immobilizer cannot read the key. I tried to then start the car and it would NOT start. It almost sounded like the battery was low - had clicking sounds - would not turn then the green light started flashing again. I live in Texas and its been 105 degrees since late May. I looked on-line and another mechanic (that you have to pay) had an answer from someone that had the same problem as me and he said it was not her key - it was a dead battery. Is this true? Can your battery connection be lose and cause the immobizer not to read the key and cause the light to flash? Any help would be great. I am asking my boyfriend to take the battery to get it checked out. If it happens to be the battery how do you get the key programmed again or will it just work once a new battery is put in? THANKS
Last edited by mendozad; Aug 25, 2011 at 10:24 AM.
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Your key is tied to the car's computer. Have the battery and the rest of the electrical system tested at your local parts store. Never heard of a low battery causing this problem.
Last edited by my.daily'tl'; Aug 25, 2011 at 11:25 AM. Reason: Add'l info
makes total sense--extreme underhood temps will kill a battery
low voltage starts causing false CEL type lights- immobilizer/ignition/ecu gets wrong voltage, and when you shut it down it doesnt believe its got the right key trying to start it
batt, maybe even alternator- sometimes one takes out the other,
parts stores run a full test for free!!
If there is a Batteries Plus store near you (ck online or phone book)- they have awesome service and great batt, they even fully charge each new battery on a giant Battery Maintainer machine- so its ready to go 100% for you.
Most places have units sitting on shelf for months- self draining
Ask for a `Blemished` battery if they have one in your size, I saved $40, down from 85- for a batt with mounting tab we dont use, was broken. batt works perfect otherwise!
many are finding our cables have lived their lifespan and its time for them too
If you had crud buildup on batt terminals= those cables are eaten away inside
low voltage starts causing false CEL type lights- immobilizer/ignition/ecu gets wrong voltage, and when you shut it down it doesnt believe its got the right key trying to start it
batt, maybe even alternator- sometimes one takes out the other,
parts stores run a full test for free!!
If there is a Batteries Plus store near you (ck online or phone book)- they have awesome service and great batt, they even fully charge each new battery on a giant Battery Maintainer machine- so its ready to go 100% for you.
Most places have units sitting on shelf for months- self draining
Ask for a `Blemished` battery if they have one in your size, I saved $40, down from 85- for a batt with mounting tab we dont use, was broken. batt works perfect otherwise!
many are finding our cables have lived their lifespan and its time for them too
If you had crud buildup on batt terminals= those cables are eaten away inside
99s had major prob with ignition switch backside- the electrical part
later years suffer same prob to lesser extent- an 00 may have it
symptoms are engine shuts off and back on, dash lights come on, may occur more on corners.
Are there many keys on your ring?= weight
does moving the key in ignition do anything?
Most DIY replace the part, $50
one ziner took it apart and cleaned years of crud- it worked fine afterwards
later years suffer same prob to lesser extent- an 00 may have it
symptoms are engine shuts off and back on, dash lights come on, may occur more on corners.
Are there many keys on your ring?= weight
does moving the key in ignition do anything?
Most DIY replace the part, $50
one ziner took it apart and cleaned years of crud- it worked fine afterwards
makes total sense--extreme underhood temps will kill a battery
low voltage starts causing false CEL type lights- immobilizer/ignition/ecu gets wrong voltage, and when you shut it down it doesnt believe its got the right key trying to start it
batt, maybe even alternator- sometimes one takes out the other,
parts stores run a full test for free!!
If there is a Batteries Plus store near you (ck online or phone book)- they have awesome service and great batt, they even fully charge each new battery on a giant Battery Maintainer machine- so its ready to go 100% for you.
Most places have units sitting on shelf for months- self draining
Ask for a `Blemished` battery if they have one in your size, I saved $40, down from 85- for a batt with mounting tab we dont use, was broken. batt works perfect otherwise!
many are finding our cables have lived their lifespan and its time for them too
If you had crud buildup on batt terminals= those cables are eaten away inside
low voltage starts causing false CEL type lights- immobilizer/ignition/ecu gets wrong voltage, and when you shut it down it doesnt believe its got the right key trying to start it
batt, maybe even alternator- sometimes one takes out the other,
parts stores run a full test for free!!
If there is a Batteries Plus store near you (ck online or phone book)- they have awesome service and great batt, they even fully charge each new battery on a giant Battery Maintainer machine- so its ready to go 100% for you.
Most places have units sitting on shelf for months- self draining
Ask for a `Blemished` battery if they have one in your size, I saved $40, down from 85- for a batt with mounting tab we dont use, was broken. batt works perfect otherwise!
many are finding our cables have lived their lifespan and its time for them too
If you had crud buildup on batt terminals= those cables are eaten away inside
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