So I've been having a soft brake pedal for a while changed all calipers, legends at the front new pads new MC Basically an overhaul.
Yesterday I was using the Motive pressure bleeder and as I was looking thru the clear line I saw what appeared to look like a metal flake with air bubbles coming out of the caliper, I did get a firm pedal after all the bleeding.

Now my question is should I be worried ?

My guess is maybe it was from the ABS pump I have no clue maybe. Any input is appreciated. Thanks

 

Are you sure it was a metal flake and not some rubber or color flake?
Do you have the rubber OEM Lines?
Have you cleaned the little mesh filter on top of the ABS Pump?

 

It was silver and flat shaped like a kite and yes oem rubber lines.
Where would the filter be on the pump ? I've never taken it apart

 

If you bled the lines until all the debris and bubbles came out you should be fine. Brake lines will gather debris over time especially when not bled for a while.

 

Clean the whole system out when you can. Its not the end of the world but those particles can abrade rubber brake lines. You may want to buy an overhaul kit and work on it in the summer and clean everything out

 

If you didn't clean the mesh in the ABS pump doing it now will be a mess because it introduces air to the 4 lines...
The mesh is on top of the ABS pump where the 2 little bolts are.

 

Didnt know there was a filter either. is the pump were all the brakes lines meet for the abs??

 

Brake fluid gets contaminated with water and oxygen.
its not hard to believe that the brake fluid was contaminated and started to cause rust or something in the lines.

as you were bleeding, parts of the metal came up with it!

 

How did your brakes turn out?

 

I got the car in 2010 breake fluid was black and MC had no pressure but still stopped the car when pressing it all the way down I hope is not from the hard lines, I've been flushing out since 2011 using the pump and hold method but since its hard to get a helper to pump all the time so I got the pressure bleeder and it definitely got the bubbles out and a firm pedal.

 

^then thats all you need to do!!

if all you saw was one flake, the hard lines couldnt be that bad!!!

now, if you saw rust colored metal flakes all over, i would be worried!

 

Yea I was afraid of that, it'll have to wait for the upcoming summer

 

I am anal about my brakes been flushing them since 2011 every 6 months because the fluid was black even on the reservoir the crud was stuck on the plastic.

 

If your brake fluid is getting black over a 6 month period maybe your new calipers and latest flush will have done the job to remedy the problem.


Metal flakes could have also come off the new caliper

 

True, I thought it could also be the abs pump letting stuff out since I did the 45mph stops to activate it.

 

glad to read you did the 2 abs active stops from 45mph after having lines disconnected from caliper or master
thats a must do! and many dont know it
reminder to noobs!! special TL bleed order is left front then clockwise- LF RF RR LR
its due to abs plumbing and is critical

see wikipedia: hygroscopic for why all our fluids suck moisture from the air,
brake fluid doesnt circulate and get hot to dry itself out like ps or engine and trans oils do
so each push of the pedal drives compressed water molecules down the line into the caliper
where they sit and rot away = turning to micro rust particulate matter that eats rubber seals and core of caliper
this is a main reason why we flush the brake fluid every year--every 3 years MAX
not doing it cost way more than doing it

 

I knew you'd jump on this thread. I learned the ABS stops from you thanks for that, I have my old calipers to show what neglected brake fluid does to them.
Now I'm still having a soft pedal ,when the car is cold it stops perfect on the first pedal but then it becomes soft.
I've bled with all kinds of methods Vacuum, pump and hold and Pressure bled, I'm starting to suspect its one of the Brake hoses expanding.
Haven't tested them yet pinching one by one. Also did the bleeding in the correct way

 

Soft pedal can only mean there is air still in the system. Bleeding them again is the only thing to make the pedal tighten up. I bought a brake bleeder system from harbor freight tools and worked fast and easy also has a vacuum leak detection gauge on it. Even if you replace the lines you are going to have to bleed them again.

 

I bled them forever now, haven't tried pinching the hoses yet so that's the last thing.

 

That would be my first guess as well.

If the flake got sucked out, can't you find it by filtering the old fluid? We love dirty pics...

 

are you on the OE rubber hoses-- SS lines rule

 

Yes oe hoses and 230k I figure it has to be that, I know I'll have to re bleed it but I don't mind. I got in a friends 99 TL and it had better pedal pressure than mine did but it had way less miles and also neglected fluid

 

Did you bleed your system again, there still might be some bubbles in the system. I`ve read a great deal about the stainless brake lines but haven`t had the need for them my brakes are fine. The stainless lines keep the fluid to the calipers without having the rubber expand under pressure of braking. You would see a slight difference in braking at most with stainless lines.

 

The weather is going to be much better tomorrow so tomorrow I'll attempt to bleed it again.

 

face reality- 230k and inside of calipers was destroyed from lack of fluid change- right?
continued prob after bleeding
Solution- replace the deteriorating brake hoses before it BURST!! leaving a large brake fluid mess
Use the stock type rubber hose at least, and SS if a racer type person or just need to slow from 80+ to 20 on occassion
Anytime you apply pressure, those hoses swell and you lose braking force
You have a lot of go fast parts,,to me the stop fast parts are as important

Have a buddy pump the pedal while you observe hose flex-swell- losing pressure under normal use,,now image hot and heavy
That test will send many to the store for new hoses~

SS maintain full pressure all the time, well worth 100 dollars for all wheels
you can tell-- note SS lines are really a teflon core line surrounded by protective plastic and then a final protective cover of braided SS.
5.1 brake fluid gives a more solid feel as well =for super brakers

 

Brake pads can give you the false impression of a soft pedal too. Depending on the pad it may not have the same or required bite causing you to have to apply the brake pedal further to do the same thing. What pads did you install.

 

Been thru 2 sets of pads thinking it was that, new rotors as well since the old ones where warped, lubed slider pins and pads are not binding.
Brake hoses are the only thing left to do before I give up lol

 

I am steering towards that route. Since I don't track my TL I'll most likely go with quality rubber hoses.

I'll keep you guys updated as soon as I foind the cause for this.

 

In which order are you bleeding them? Honda wants you to do it in LF, LR, RR, RF order which is backwards to what most have been trained by starting at the wheel furthest from the MC

 

I do it in this order: LF RF RR LR

 

@fsttyms1 I forgot to mention about the pads they are Napa adaptive one.
The ones before were monroe oe pads.

Update: Today I bled them again and noticed something, as the fluid was going through the clear hose on the Front Calipers the fluid flows faster on right side than the left side.
Theres a blockage some where probably trapping air, Hose line or Abs modulator I'll have to figure it out.

 

It appears as though this order is correct and is Acura's recommended sequence.

 

Those of you needing to bleed your brakes alone, make yourself a bleeder kit:

Purchase a one-way check valve:
https://www.grainger.com/product/SMC...ck-Valve-4DHY7

Get some 3/16" tubing, a couple zip ties, and bam.... a brake bleeder kit.

 

^ Thanks for that one RONE,
UPDATE: So as I was stepping on the pedal to build pressure, my brother said "why does the reservoir move up and down" so we switched and boy it was moving a lot about an inch upwards.
I go and look up under the dash and noticed I missed a bolt that connects the top of pedal assembly to the upper part of the dash, put the bolt on but it wasn't as simple as you think which is probably why I missed it in the first place, well the pedal is nice and firm now but it still doesn't stop like the other TL I tried.
Also the new brake hose came in, will install it tomorrow.

#13
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...3s0k01_b23.png

 

I was thinking- since you had the really bad fluid in there destroying parts
and are doing SS line
along with finding master not connected right
Im going to guess the master cyl suffered internal damage at some point
by overzealous push to floor while bleeding or driving with master bolt loose on cabin/pedal side- which pushes the rod that activates master cyl-
any rod to contact pressure not `ON CENTER` can lead to failure
and full push of pedal with bleeder open can push o ring in master beyond its normal limits and cause death of master

for under 100 bucks (80 back when I did mine with full brake upgrade)
for a master = no brainer
then you have a for sure slows and stops just how you like~

 

The master is fine what was flexing was the firewall since it didn't have the upper bolt the booster was moving as well.
I changed the pedal assembly a while back since the old one would wiggle left and right and I missed the bolt while replacing it.

I put 1 new rubber hose in the left front and Im convinced the hoses are the culprit, the brakes are getting better and better, Going to change out the rest of them before they burst. Maybe I'll go with the ss line.

Heres a pic of the old caliper