BAYA transmission swap
#1
BAYA transmission swap
I finally completed the swap and life is great! The problem I had was that I have a 2000 TL and for that year the manufacturer used 2 different transmissions. This means they also used 2 different torque converters. I have the one with the same torque converter as the Honda Odyssey. If your torque converter has HO-21 stamped on it, so do you and you will not be able to use the torque converter that comes with the BAYA transmission. You can still do the swap; you will need to go out and buy a brand new HO-21 torque converter and not use the Honda Accord one or you will destroy the new transmission because the torque converter will not have the proper spacing and it will literally rub through the case of the transmission housing. Trust me on this. I learned this lesson the hard way. But the easiest way to prevent from experiencing this problem is to simply look at your old torque converter before you do the swap. If you have the HO-21, go buy a new one for the swap. If you have the 8C you can use the torque converter that comes with your Accord transmission or you can buy a new 8C torque converter. The choice is yours. Just want to say thank you to everyone that helped me out on this website. If it weren't for you I would never gotten her back on the road. Hopefully this post helps someone the way you all helped me.
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01tl4tl (01-20-2015)
#2
Excellent info! That's the stuff only personal experience can provide
and as the saying goes- we learn from our mistakes!
Its always wise to visually match new parts to old for size and spacers, as well as numbers, little nuts and bolts or other clips etc mounted to it
One example is the rear brake pads for us, MANY makers use the wrong backing plate- it has 3 raised tabs on inner pad instead of the correct 1 at each end that we use (only 1 is needed that holds the low pad warning squealer tab- the other end tab is not even required,
they are not for support- just hold the noise thing
That 3rd-center raised peg hits the caliper piston edge as it pushes out under braking.
Result is rear inner pad gets pushed crooked and only half of its width makes contact with the rotor!
makes for funky braking and severe pad wear
To ck any gen2 TL for this problem just look at inner side of rear brake rotor
If half of its width is shiny and the other half rusty- you have the wrong pads!
Extra tab can be ground off flush if fairly new and damage limited- otherwise its new pad time
One maker apparently thought the RL pads fit the TL or something and all others copied the mistake~
Again - great info on the trans
and as the saying goes- we learn from our mistakes!
Its always wise to visually match new parts to old for size and spacers, as well as numbers, little nuts and bolts or other clips etc mounted to it
One example is the rear brake pads for us, MANY makers use the wrong backing plate- it has 3 raised tabs on inner pad instead of the correct 1 at each end that we use (only 1 is needed that holds the low pad warning squealer tab- the other end tab is not even required,
they are not for support- just hold the noise thing
That 3rd-center raised peg hits the caliper piston edge as it pushes out under braking.
Result is rear inner pad gets pushed crooked and only half of its width makes contact with the rotor!
makes for funky braking and severe pad wear
To ck any gen2 TL for this problem just look at inner side of rear brake rotor
If half of its width is shiny and the other half rusty- you have the wrong pads!
Extra tab can be ground off flush if fairly new and damage limited- otherwise its new pad time
One maker apparently thought the RL pads fit the TL or something and all others copied the mistake~
Again - great info on the trans
#3
00 tl
Thanks for this info! I have another question as well since i also have a 00 tl. I was told i couldn't use a baya transmission on a 00 because of the cooler built on top? Did you have this issue as well? Thanks!
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