I have a 99 TL-P with 81k. My fuel gauge always reads full. Anyone else ever have this problem? The dealer said my car is the first they've ever seen.

 

Maybe you have a fuel leprechaun. Pass him my way.

/Sorry, in a humorous mood
//nothing constructive to say

 

Sounds like a bad sending unit. There have been a few that have had them go south

 

Of corse they have "never seen that before". It takes longer to troubleshoot a new problem than one they have seen before (therefore more billable hours). Do you think they would say that about a trany failure?

 

@timberland73 i still have this issue. my fuel gauge reads full all the time lots of people said its the sending unit
did you figure out what was wrong??

 

have you tested the sending unit?
and tested the guage?

these cars are aging and gunk in the fuel can cause many problems
try a can of seafoam in half a tank, maybe it will help clear if just stuck or gummed up
If failed unit- must replace

 

I also have this problem in my 97 2.2 Always reads full. How would you test the guage? I've pulled the cluster out and inspected it, there doesn't seem to be corrosion or breaks in any contacts. I've got a crappy Haynes manual, it is NO help! Such as where is a sending unit? Fuses are fine, wiring is fine, I don't know. It's wearing me out

 

wow- a 4 year old thread -still with no answer
You have a 97- thats gen1- you posted in gen2
go to that section for better help

the fuel sending unit is inside the gas tank
Its possible the wires on top of it are damaged and causing a short to ground
There is a ground point for a few wires under the spare tire on most years- ck it out-
any water in there would do it!

if I recall -to test if its a guage on dash, or sending unit problem= you took the power lead for sender and put to ground- the guage should max out if its operating

that would mean the sender is bad

best I can do for you at this hour

 

you can check the guage by

1. check #9 fuse and make sure it is good
2. Turn engine off
3. remove spare tire lid
4. remove access panel from floor
5. disconnect fuel pump 5P connector
6. voltage between 1 and 2 with ignition switch on (ii) should be 10-12.5V. if you have the correct voltage move to step 7.
if voltage is not right check for
a. open in the yellow/blue or black wire
b. bad ground (G501)
7. Turn ignition off
8. put a 2 ohm resister between pins 1 & 2
9. Turn ignition on (ii)
10. guage should read full if not, replace it. if guage reads full continue on

to replace the sending unit do the following

1. remove spare tire lid
2. remove access door from floor
3. remove fuel filler cap
4. remove fuel pump connector
5. crank car to remove fuel pressure or do it by relieving it at the FPR
6. remove quick disconnect fittings ( I would cover them with a towell first) from fuel pump.
7. remove 8 bolts holding fuel tank unit down
8. to measure resistannce on the male plug get a multimeter and set it to the 200 ohm range

with the float

in the E position should read 105-107ohms (all the way down)
in the 1/2 position should read 29.5-32.5ohms (half way up)
in the F position should read 3-5 ohms (all the way up)

make connector for the fuel tank unit (5P) looks like this (minus the periods)
._____
|1|2|3|
..\4|5/

Disclaimer: if you follow this and blow urself up, don't come looking for me as you accept all responsibility for your own actions up to and including death.

 

I forgot I even posted this thread. I got the fuel sender replaced and it kinda works now. When I first fill up, the gauge drops to empty and my fuel light turns on. It stays that way for anywhere between 30-50 miles. After that, it reads fine. Problem is, it doesn't read accurately. But since I know I can get about 250-270 miles a tank, I just reset my mileage gauge every fill up. I was gonna have the sending unit repalced again but I have a huge stereo in my trunk and the sender is a pain in the ass to get to so I just live with it.

[IMG][/IMG]

Also did seafoam and it didn't help this particular problem.

 

I think we have found your problem
The system is shaking the ground wire loose!!

thanks to Yeu for the actual diagnostic spec

 

Could be. Oh well, I've learned to deal with it.

 

there have been cases in the past where a sub was removed and the ground wire under spare tire was affected,,maybe they cut a wire to remove or something
on that one
Maybe yours is loose, or weak for the demand on it?
Added extra grounds for each system part?

 

When I had the sender replaced, I didn't put the stereo back in for like a month. I found out that I had a leak in the trunk so I wanted to trace where it was coming from first. Found out it was the tail light gaskets but even before that, the sender didn't work properly. I probably should've had it replaced again at that time but I got so tired of having no sounds that I didn't care anymore.

 

ahhh the truth finally emerges!!
water in the trunk from the taillights-a common problem

better get to looking for corrosion to the power leads in the bulbs and gas tank sendor,
plus all the grounds need cleaning

 

great help!! I'll try in the next few days and tell you what I find