Automatic one-touch sunroof
01-24-2002, 03:30 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
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Automatic one-touch sunroof
I figured I should disclose the wiring schematic for the one-touch sunroof since BobaTimez liked it so much.
Parts: 1 DEI 528 timer relay. 2 SPDT relays. 4 diodes. wire, connectors, wire taps, and tools.
Estimated parts cost: $35-50.
Estimated install time: 3 hours.
Operation: Pressing the stock sunroof close or open switch opens or closes the sunroof fully. The sunroof is capable of venting as per normal operation. The automatic sunroof travel may be interrupted by tapping the vent switch during the opening or closing operation.
Note: You can use 2 DEI 528 timer relays and 1 SPDT relay instead of this configuration to simplify wiring, but simple relays and diodes are cheaper than another DEI 528 timer relay.
I always try to save cost whenever possible, like a responsible electrical engineer should.
Parts: 1 DEI 528 timer relay. 2 SPDT relays. 4 diodes. wire, connectors, wire taps, and tools.
Estimated parts cost: $35-50.
Estimated install time: 3 hours.
Operation: Pressing the stock sunroof close or open switch opens or closes the sunroof fully. The sunroof is capable of venting as per normal operation. The automatic sunroof travel may be interrupted by tapping the vent switch during the opening or closing operation.
Note: You can use 2 DEI 528 timer relays and 1 SPDT relay instead of this configuration to simplify wiring, but simple relays and diodes are cheaper than another DEI 528 timer relay.
I always try to save cost whenever possible, like a responsible electrical engineer should.
01-24-2002, 03:35 PM
#2
Sticky Rice OwnZ joO
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Do all EE design their schematics on blank white paper?? 
Where's the MATLAB drawing??? j/k
Thanks for the info, too bad I don't know wtf it is..
Where's the MATLAB drawing??? j/k
Thanks for the info, too bad I don't know wtf it is..
01-24-2002, 04:01 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
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I could have drawn the schmatic on PSPICE or PowerView, but white paper is my usual choice. 
I'll try the best I can to explain it simpler. When you press one of the stock moonroof switches, you close a circuit and "ground" a wire. The purpose of the timer is to keep the circuit closed and keep the wire grounded for a long enough time that the roof would close/open completely by itself. All that is needed, is the intial input to activate the timer which is done by simply tapping the close or open switch. The output relay is there to allow one timer to be reused for both open and close functions. Of course, you could use one timer for the open function, and one timer for the close function, but that would cost more $.
The interrupt relay is there so that you can stop the moonroof travel during automatic operation. You might not want the roof to open all the way, or maybe there is a dumb passenger sticking his hand in the path of the closing roof. This feature will allow you to stop the sunroof travel. The diodes may or may not be necessary depending on your application, but are there to prevent any feedback from the stock wires from effecting the design. You have to have the diode between the stock open and close wires though. A diode is like a one-way valve in a water pipe in that it only allows the media to flow in one direction. The diode keeps electrical currents/signals flowing only in one direction.
If you opt for the two DEI timer approach, then you need only one relay, don't need any diodes and the install will be easier overall.
If this still makes no sense, then I don't know what else to say, but that this may be a little bit harder than the average person should undertake. If you feel comfortable with wiring, then go ahead and do it. You'll be glad that you did.
I'll try the best I can to explain it simpler. When you press one of the stock moonroof switches, you close a circuit and "ground" a wire. The purpose of the timer is to keep the circuit closed and keep the wire grounded for a long enough time that the roof would close/open completely by itself. All that is needed, is the intial input to activate the timer which is done by simply tapping the close or open switch. The output relay is there to allow one timer to be reused for both open and close functions. Of course, you could use one timer for the open function, and one timer for the close function, but that would cost more $.
The interrupt relay is there so that you can stop the moonroof travel during automatic operation. You might not want the roof to open all the way, or maybe there is a dumb passenger sticking his hand in the path of the closing roof. This feature will allow you to stop the sunroof travel. The diodes may or may not be necessary depending on your application, but are there to prevent any feedback from the stock wires from effecting the design. You have to have the diode between the stock open and close wires though. A diode is like a one-way valve in a water pipe in that it only allows the media to flow in one direction. The diode keeps electrical currents/signals flowing only in one direction.
If you opt for the two DEI timer approach, then you need only one relay, don't need any diodes and the install will be easier overall.
If this still makes no sense, then I don't know what else to say, but that this may be a little bit harder than the average person should undertake. If you feel comfortable with wiring, then go ahead and do it. You'll be glad that you did.
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01-24-2002, 04:02 PM
#8
Sticky Rice OwnZ joO
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Originally posted by Beiruty
he he he.... You do not use MATLAB for schematics.... Maybe CAD, AutoCAD, or Workbench....
he he he.... You do not use MATLAB for schematics.... Maybe CAD, AutoCAD, or Workbench....
If I had a clearer pic, I could figure it out though..
01-24-2002, 06:05 PM
#11
Drifting
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I understand it all being an electronic tech.
Basically you wire to your close and open switch the diode and timer as shown in the diagram which will control the relay which is connected to two more diodes which then run to the other electrical and mechanical stuff that runs the sunroof (which you don't need to mess with). Nice design.
I am also going to see about getting this added to the FAQ.
Basically you wire to your close and open switch the diode and timer as shown in the diagram which will control the relay which is connected to two more diodes which then run to the other electrical and mechanical stuff that runs the sunroof (which you don't need to mess with). Nice design.
I am also going to see about getting this added to the FAQ.
01-24-2002, 06:35 PM
#12
schematic i understand. but where is the instruction on finding those switches on the TL, and instruction to remove the panel trims.
The electrical part is easy, but the physcial location of switches, trim panel, I don't have a clue.
So i would assume that I need to disable the dash. If i remember correctly our sunroof switch is to the left of the steering wheel.
SO how do i remove all these???????
The electrical part is easy, but the physcial location of switches, trim panel, I don't have a clue.
So i would assume that I need to disable the dash. If i remember correctly our sunroof switch is to the left of the steering wheel.
SO how do i remove all these???????
01-24-2002, 07:25 PM
#16
Burning Brakes
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Any standard spdt automotive style relay will do. Go to any car audio or alarm store and they will have 'em. Radio shack should have 'em too.
This specific design can only be used on the moonroof, not on the windows, but you can use the same concept with the automatic timer to control your windows if you wanted. IMO, an aftermarket automatic window module like DEI or Clifford is a better approach for automating the windows.
This specific design can only be used on the moonroof, not on the windows, but you can use the same concept with the automatic timer to control your windows if you wanted. IMO, an aftermarket automatic window module like DEI or Clifford is a better approach for automating the windows.
01-24-2002, 07:26 PM
#17
Burning Brakes
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Installation Instr.
The installation of the automatic moonroof electronics is much easier than the wiring.
Open the driver side door and remove the fusebox cover. You will notice that the bottom skirt/knee bolster of the dash is secured by a single screw to the metal support directly below the fusebox. Remove this screw and pull out the bottom dash skirt; it is only secured by friction clips so pull liberally. Once out, you will disconnect the wiring harness that goes to the light dimmer knob. Just pull it out from behind the dimmer knob. Set aside the bottom dash skirt.
The back of the moonroof button assembly is now exposed. To remove the moonroof buttons, you can simulataneously push from the back of the buttons with one hand as you gently pry the front with a small screwdriver, exercising caution that you don't marr the plastic. Once this is out, you remove the wiring harnass clip and have full access to the wires. Use scissors or a sharp knife to carefully cut away the wire wrap tubing around the wires to give you room to tap and cut the wires. See my diagram above for the proper wire color code.
Make all electrical connections. You can find +12V from the bottom exposed female spade terminal at the rear of the fusebox. You can get Ground from any of a variety of sources, I used a bolt that I found on the chassis and put a Ring connector terminal through it. Test your design before you put it back together.
Secure your new wires to existing underdash wires by nylon straps and electrical tape. Close up the dash skirt remembering to reconnect the dimmer switch wires, replace the screw securing the skirt, and replace the fuse box cover.
Sit back and enjoy your full-auto one-touch moonroof. You will be the envy of all your friends. Your social status will increase. Your coolness rating will have tripled, and even your neighbor's dog will now stop barking at you upon sight.
-LLCruizin Josh
Open the driver side door and remove the fusebox cover. You will notice that the bottom skirt/knee bolster of the dash is secured by a single screw to the metal support directly below the fusebox. Remove this screw and pull out the bottom dash skirt; it is only secured by friction clips so pull liberally. Once out, you will disconnect the wiring harness that goes to the light dimmer knob. Just pull it out from behind the dimmer knob. Set aside the bottom dash skirt.
The back of the moonroof button assembly is now exposed. To remove the moonroof buttons, you can simulataneously push from the back of the buttons with one hand as you gently pry the front with a small screwdriver, exercising caution that you don't marr the plastic. Once this is out, you remove the wiring harnass clip and have full access to the wires. Use scissors or a sharp knife to carefully cut away the wire wrap tubing around the wires to give you room to tap and cut the wires. See my diagram above for the proper wire color code.
Make all electrical connections. You can find +12V from the bottom exposed female spade terminal at the rear of the fusebox. You can get Ground from any of a variety of sources, I used a bolt that I found on the chassis and put a Ring connector terminal through it. Test your design before you put it back together.
Secure your new wires to existing underdash wires by nylon straps and electrical tape. Close up the dash skirt remembering to reconnect the dimmer switch wires, replace the screw securing the skirt, and replace the fuse box cover.
Sit back and enjoy your full-auto one-touch moonroof. You will be the envy of all your friends. Your social status will increase. Your coolness rating will have tripled, and even your neighbor's dog will now stop barking at you upon sight.
-LLCruizin Josh
01-24-2002, 08:04 PM
#18
Burning Brakes
Bebber,
If I had this working on my TL-S... do you think it would interfere with my car alarm's "sunroof auto-close on arm" feature (which I hope to someday get going)?
Thanks,
Vincent
If I had this working on my TL-S... do you think it would interfere with my car alarm's "sunroof auto-close on arm" feature (which I hope to someday get going)?
Thanks,
Vincent
01-24-2002, 10:31 PM
#19
Racer
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You're left-handed right?
Bebber, if you can explain which wire connects to which wire on each part, that would probably be more helpful. I kinda understood the schematic but there are a couple of things I'm not sure of
Bebber, if you can explain which wire connects to which wire on each part, that would probably be more helpful. I kinda understood the schematic but there are a couple of things I'm not sure of
...im playin, forreal though we need pictures of the real deal instead of these rinky dink diagrams
01-25-2002, 02:58 PM
#29
6G TLX-S
What's that module housed in clear plastic box ? Is that a shock sensor or is that a proximity sensor ?
01-25-2002, 04:48 PM
#30
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When I first bought my TL-S it came with the one touch open option for the moonroof. I kid you not.. The moonroof would open all the way with just one touch. Later I found out that it was a sticky open button and took it to the dealer and they fix the problem (they sprayed some armor-all on it and it stopped the sticking. Now my one touch open moonroof option is longer working. 
Oh well..
Oh well..
01-25-2002, 06:10 PM
#31
Drifting
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Originally posted by Hangman
When I first bought my TL-S it came with the one touch open option for the moonroof. I kid you not.. The moonroof would open all the way with just one touch. Later I found out that it was a sticky open button and took it to the dealer and they fix the problem (they sprayed some armor-all on it and it stopped the sticking. Now my one touch open moonroof option is longer working. Oh well..
When I first bought my TL-S it came with the one touch open option for the moonroof. I kid you not.. The moonroof would open all the way with just one touch. Later I found out that it was a sticky open button and took it to the dealer and they fix the problem (they sprayed some armor-all on it and it stopped the sticking. Now my one touch open moonroof option is longer working.
Oh well..
01-26-2002, 05:11 AM
#34
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bebber:
And you call yourself an EE...geez man that should be on graph paper, with a .5mm HB lead pencil, and you should be writing in all caps exactly 5 mm high. Yeesh Oh and it should be in LabView...hopefully one of the older versions that crashes when you click on anything. If you guys think this is too "hard" I will be more than happy to build a little box with the components in it, where you just splice your switch wires and put it in. Although it can be done by yourself easily enough .
Austin519
And you call yourself an EE...geez man that should be on graph paper, with a .5mm HB lead pencil, and you should be writing in all caps exactly 5 mm high. Yeesh
Oh and it should be in LabView...hopefully one of the older versions that crashes when you click on anything. If you guys think this is too "hard" I will be more than happy to build a little box with the components in it, where you just splice your switch wires and put it in. Although it can be done by yourself easily enough .Austin519
01-26-2002, 02:30 PM
#35
Burning Brakes
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gripers
You know what? I don't particularly have the nicest handwriting. I'm right handed. I can write neater if I really wanted to, but why? So I got some smears and wrinkles on the blue prints during the construction work, but does that detract from the project so much? When I draw a rough sketch, it's not supposed to be perfect. I didn't run digital simulations and testing to see if the design would work under all possible environmental stresses and possible circuit conditions. Heck, I didn't even include a fuse in the design.
It is downright astonishing to me that I would get so many critiques and so little appreciation. This reminds me why I was reluctant to post any instructions at all when I first did my own sunroof four months ago. After doing Bobatimez's sunroof, I reconsidered and decided to post the schematic and other sheets on here. Don't get me wrong. I'm not angry, just perplexed.
It is downright astonishing to me that I would get so many critiques and so little appreciation. This reminds me why I was reluctant to post any instructions at all when I first did my own sunroof four months ago. After doing Bobatimez's sunroof, I reconsidered and decided to post the schematic and other sheets on here. Don't get me wrong. I'm not angry, just perplexed.
01-26-2002, 03:13 PM
#36
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Man that is a sweet as mod you did. We are so impressed with it that we want to do it for ourselves. I am not an EE or anything close but we just wanted to get more info. I still give you mad props for pulling this off.
01-27-2002, 03:31 AM
#37
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bebber:
Apologies man...I was more poking fun at you didn't mean for you to take it insultingly or whatnot...I think that's how everyone on here was...they were making fun of you while writing down your circuit design. I appreciate it man and I'm sure everyone else does.
Austin519
Apologies man...I was more poking fun at you didn't mean for you to take it insultingly or whatnot...I think that's how everyone on here was...they were making fun of you while writing down your circuit design. I appreciate it man and I'm sure everyone else does.
Austin519
