I just got my Apexi V-AFC II in today and I'm a little bit hazy on what I want to program it to. I'm installing it once my car gets out of the body shop. I'm just curious on what other TL'ers on this board with the Apexi programmed it to and what the best rpm ranges would be for the Vtec to be engaged.

 

^bump^ Come on someone help me out here.

 

get it professionally tuned.. what works for someone might not work for your car.....

 

i have a TL-P, so if i had a V-AFC, id tune VTEC to kick in at 4000 RPM, a lil above 3800 on the TL-S. That way i can have the auto shift right before it hits VTEC but then have it kick in earlier.

 

i got vafc I.

Unless you can install yourself (splicing wires and all that shit), take it to Dynamic turbo 20mins south of FAU in Ft. lauderdale (i got adress if you want)

This cost me, prob you too, $100 just the installation.

dynotuning, i havent had that done yet, i got it eartuned by a mech (free) and i changed all other setting around including 4000rpm vtec, air/fuel corrections etc!!!
my VTi=3900 and VTo=4000!! ->this means that at 3900 exess gas is injected (no risk of running lean) and at 4000 vtec = bomb and you FEEL de power!

i did a shitty tuning job, but it was corrected again by this mech so i dont do harm to my engine...but i'm not getting all i can out of it...YET

I was waiting on Kman156 to heal up to go dynotuning, but he just crashed...if you wait a month or so, we can go to DT and get a TL dynotuning orgy going on...install it first, get it wideband tuned and then we'll hit the turbine.


edit: for your TL-P you want vtec to engage at 4000 for several reasons. 1, it gives more power earlier in the band resulting in more time to develop more power. 2, it affects incredibly your 0-60time. 3,more power during vtec (air/fuel rat). 4, when shifting 2nd gear and up, we slightly fall outa vtec range.

*i'm 90%+ sure what i wrote is correct, if not someone correct my mistakes, im not vtec pro but i do have some idea of whats going on...Oh, help me in gettin some rep before i hit 1000posts

 

Thanks for the input ya'll. I'm splicing it and installing it myself when I get my car tues or weds then I'm gonna get some help from the performance shop that my car gets its work done at. As for dyno's, I know a place that for $800 you get to rent the lab for the ENTIRE day. This is an extremely good deal if you get 10-12 people to pitch in. You can test your car on tons of different specs. It costs around 50-100 bucks a run just to do it one at a time but this is kinda a "groupbuy." Anyone who is interested in S. FL. in pitchin in on this we can rent it out and get times.

 

actually dud, this Dynamic turbo shop (also has shop in miami) can get you a dynotuning session with the apexi distributor/mechanics for $75/hr, so they told me when i asked for this. You do have to wait some time because this duds are so popular and the turbine is not in their shop.

finetuning shouldn't take more than 1.5hours. once the vafc is intalled...installation takes like 2-3hours.

 

It kicks in at 5200 RPM on the Type-S.

Mine hasn't been dyno-tuned yet, but I played around with the VTEC engagement/disengagement point, and found 4500 to be a good engagement point, smoothing out the powerband. Disengage at 4400.

Make sure you set up VTEC type under no. 3 -- otherwise you won't be able to do much at all since 1 and 2 are programmed for high-rpm engines.

And yeah, definitely get it dyno-tuned. I'm getting mine done as soon as I get some money together.

 

My V-AFC II won't let me engage VTEC at below 4500 RPM. Besides, you don't want to set VTEC too low. The whole principal behind VTEC is that in the high rpm band, the air coming in bounces off the intake valves and by the time the valves open for the next sequence, the air is going the other way. That means it's not making efficient use of the intake charge. That's what VTEC does -- changes the cam and valve timing so that the air flows smoother. Setting it too low would only hurt it. That's why it's gotta be dyno-tuned.

I messed around with the VTEC settings on my car using my butt-dyno and 4500 seemed like a pretty good spot. That's also the lowest you can go on the V-AFC II for VTEC engagement (don't know about the V-AFC, never had one).

 

Well actually the only way to have more gas at 3900 is by adding it in the fuel mapping portion of the VAFC. The VTi and VTo refer to the VTEC engagement and disengagement points. You can set it up so that the VTEC engages at say 4200 but it will still be in VTEC even if you drop below 4200 if you set the disengagement point to say 4000. This will help if the gears make it so the car comes out of VTEC when it shifts. The manuals for both the VAFC-I and the VAFC-II can be found at:
Click here for manuals

As far as tuning goes, I would not mess with it too much unless you are doing it on a dyno, When you adjust the VTEC point different from the ECU make sure also adjust the VTEC Unmatching (V/T Unmt) accodingly.

Hope this helps some.

 

dynotune the bitch. Its the only way to get the best outta the unit. Also messing with it yourself can lead to engine go bye bye now.

 

^^ tru only if running too lean

hence my point of doing a shitty tuning job -ya it does help!!

but tru, Tunaboy, after you install its better to run it rich untill you get it dynotuned...i wouldn't mess with it too much.

 

also be sure to set vtec to kick in at 2000rpm!!!! should make things ALOT more interesting!!!!!

 

i think my friends TL-S kicks in at 3800, or thats what hes told me, unless everyone else's kicks in at 5200 as well, in which case I'd be wrong then...I know the TL-P's (or at least mine), VTEC kicks in right at 4500