Air conditioner
Air conditioner
My a/c all the sudden stopped working. i have 2003 3.2 acura tl type s. the fan doesnt even work at all either. is there something easy to check maybee a blown fuse? im trying to avoid gettin screwed by dealer you no.
Thanks for the help!!
Thanks for the help!!
Use the A/C Pull Code procedure..
Push the AUTO & OFF for a Minute with the Key on (II) there must be a beep (After 1 Minute) and the normal Numbers (Ex: 80) should be in Pieces Ex: Half 0 = ")" those are your codes.. Dont let go the AUTO & OFF Buttons or they will dissapear.
Ill Post Pics
Push the AUTO & OFF for a Minute with the Key on (II) there must be a beep (After 1 Minute) and the normal Numbers (Ex: 80) should be in Pieces Ex: Half 0 = ")" those are your codes.. Dont let go the AUTO & OFF Buttons or they will dissapear.
Ill Post Pics
Last edited by Skirmich; Jul 1, 2011 at 06:39 PM.
look at the fan power connector under front edge of glovebox door
It likes to melt on hidden backside and short out
if bad its easily replaced with a $20 kit from acura- has longer wires to lessen strain too
It likes to melt on hidden backside and short out
if bad its easily replaced with a $20 kit from acura- has longer wires to lessen strain too
It's not that its shorting out, its that the contacts aren't making solid contact causing excessive resistance(heat). My connector is in pretty bad shape as well. The blower stopped blowing about a week ago but I've been getting it back on temporarily by readjusting the cord a bit. I wouldn't recommend doing this too often as the connector is only going to get more charred with continued use. My local dealership priced out the sub-harness at $11 but its not in stock at their warehouse and they weren't sure when they might get more in. They might also want you to buy a new blower motor but its not completely necessary as long as it's connector is in decent shape. Would be a good idea to use a bit of contact cleaner on the motors terminals before installing the sub-harness.
Last edited by PShep; Jul 2, 2011 at 04:41 AM.
the other part- transisitor? resistor? for the blower motor often takes a hit,,
not the fan itself..dont hear that here- just the wire and the other bit
while it may not be a direct short YET, once its really bad and the plastic melts --there is going to be a problem!
loose wire counts as a `short` when its not making contact (in my book)
Ck with our sponsoring dealers for part availabilty--expand beyond your region of acura
not the fan itself..dont hear that here- just the wire and the other bit
while it may not be a direct short YET, once its really bad and the plastic melts --there is going to be a problem!
loose wire counts as a `short` when its not making contact (in my book)
Ck with our sponsoring dealers for part availabilty--expand beyond your region of acura
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the other part- transisitor? resistor? for the blower motor often takes a hit,,
not the fan itself..dont hear that here- just the wire and the other bit
while it may not be a direct short YET, once its really bad and the plastic melts --there is going to be a problem!
loose wire counts as a `short` when its not making contact (in my book)
Ck with our sponsoring dealers for part availabilty--expand beyond your region of acura
not the fan itself..dont hear that here- just the wire and the other bit
while it may not be a direct short YET, once its really bad and the plastic melts --there is going to be a problem!
loose wire counts as a `short` when its not making contact (in my book)
Ck with our sponsoring dealers for part availabilty--expand beyond your region of acura
Skirmich: I have the same problem (no AC but fan blowing constant). I just ran the self dianosis you listed above (non-nav system). I got the error codes I and N. (they do not touch each other so I'm pretty sure it is not H and N.) Can you please post the pages I need to fix the situation.
As for the blower motor connection under the glove box (that is a known problem for this car), I took this out yesterday and it looks brand new. no burn marks on it and the connector. i have to admit I did not "test" it with a meter because I wasn't sure how to do that at the time (although I know I've seen that in one of the AC problem threads)
FYI - this all started after changing my battery (or possibly the jumb start to get me home)
Thanks!
Thanks!
As for the blower motor connection under the glove box (that is a known problem for this car), I took this out yesterday and it looks brand new. no burn marks on it and the connector. i have to admit I did not "test" it with a meter because I wasn't sure how to do that at the time (although I know I've seen that in one of the AC problem threads)
FYI - this all started after changing my battery (or possibly the jumb start to get me home)
Thanks!
Thanks!
For "oldsaintsfan"
The AC Blowing constant seems to be the Problem 01tl4tl sugests the AC Blower conector its a Common problem for our cars, Just visually check it under the Glove Box for any signs of shorts.
For DTC "I":

For DTC "N":

Hope it Helps!
The AC Blowing constant seems to be the Problem 01tl4tl sugests the AC Blower conector its a Common problem for our cars, Just visually check it under the Glove Box for any signs of shorts.
For DTC "I":

For DTC "N":

Hope it Helps!
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