bobowah

what are the best aftermarket brake pads and rotor to replace worn down rotors and pad?

I have to get my entire braking system replaced b/c it is just worn down from driving in the city and up and down the hill that I live on.


Benefits on slotted or cross drilled?

What are the best brands?

Thanks

SL1200MK4

Brembo offers one of the best braking upgrade for our car if not the BEST!!!

But they will also cost you about 2 grand plus installation.

Before you do anything, you might want to check if your rear brakes are still okay or not? cuz about 70 to 80% of the brake are applied on the front brake due to weight transfer.

I will recommend you to get brake pads, and you can also do the brake line, but I heard that our TL got thick brake lines.

If you need rotor, get gas slotted instead of drilled. Drilled rotor are designed for the race track, they tend to crack and wrap easier compared to the slot one...

I am planing on upgrading my brake line, brake fuild, front pads & rotors as well... All that will cost me about a grand Canadian dollors, which is about 650 US

hope this helps........

AcuraTL

Unless you use your brakes constantly over a very short period of time and do alot of high speed braking, there's no need to slotted/crossrilled rotors.

Just get a set of front and rear Axxis Metal Master pads and you'll be fine.

marko

What do you plan to put and where SL1200MK4?
I am also in Toronto and I would be interested for the same thing.

bobowah

my rotors are shot...

if I have to replace them anyways I think I'm going with slotted up front and the metal master's pads...

Again suggestion for slotted rotors which fit the TL?

but I don't know what kinda rotors to get... I can't wait two weeks to get them off tim's site...

I'll probably order the brake pad though...

-Jeff

Bitium

There is no point of getting just gas slotted. Cross drilled rotors will make the rotors cool down faster. There is no reason to get cross drilled rotors unless you frequently slow down from 80mph or above to 10mph, or hard breaking before entering a curve. Well any types of hard prolong breaking. They will help a lot at high speeds. Now you could get cross drilled/gas slotted rotors. Yes Brembo offers a very good kit for the TL. AEM also has a good kit, but they don't make them for our cars.......they should.

Be careful on what pads you put on your car, since pads can also cause the rotors to warped.
what do you mean by " my rotors are shot"

No one else makes rotors for our cars, is either Tim, brembo kit, or comptech, but comptech is not producing them yet. The dealer does have cross drilled rotors, if you want to go that path.

JYOO

I saw a SEMA show on TV about cross drilled rotors and slotted rotors.

Unelss you drive a race car cross drilled rotors are no good.
They showed how cross drilled rotors cracked and got worn out in about 15,000 miles. The holes actually dont not really help cool the brakes they are actually there for weight loss.

They then tested the slotted rotors and they lasted just as long as the stock rotors and really helped stopping distances also.

The guy said dont waste your money on cross drilled rotors and get slotted ones or keep your stock ones.

bobowah

what I meant by shot is that they are basically at the minimum thickness to be safe...

I really don't know how I wore them down but I did... and the pads need replacing but that's normal...

and I get some wobbling when I brake...

-J

Nate

JYOO, that may be true on the track but I doubt my c/d rotors will be worn out any faster than the stock ones. I don't do too much hard braking. For me, they are mostly for looks. And they are coated so they won't rust.



http://natestl.com/images/rotors/

Bitium

Before we make a big argument, pretty much both slotted and cross drilled serve the same purpose. You are right JYOO cross drilled rotors do help reduce the mass weight of the rotors, thus improving handling. Both CD and S rotors improve out-gassing "where gas (from the pad bonding agents) can form a cushion between pad and rotor, greatly reducing braking power". S rotors do one thing that CD rotors doesn't that is help dissipate water when driving in poor weather, as well as pump away dust and dirt. S rotors also continually de-glaze the brake pads, improving efficiency and reducing rotor scoring. They even out-wear across the brake pad faces, increasing the effective contact area and extending rotor life, but reducing the life of the pads. CD rotors do lower brake temperatures, as does the S rotors do not.

In my opinion the conbination of crossdrilled/slotted rotors are the best, but I would preffer crossdrilled over slotted because I race and do a lot of heavy breaking.

As for your last question, the wobbling comes from warped rotors. Go to the dealer and they will re-surface them for free, I don't believe your rotors are at their minimum thickness.

Bitium

Also I forgot, but since NATE mention it, the Crossdrilled do look better than the slotted rotors.

Nate

SL1200MK4

Sure... the $990 CA included the labor

You get

steanless brakeline F&R 250

Front rotor and pads 300+150

Brake fluid 60

and labor and so on..........

The shop is called N1......... let me know if u need any more info...

marko

What kind of rotors and pads? Also, what is the advantage of stainless brake lines?
I was thinking about “Raybestos”, just do not know where can I find them here in Toronto.
http://www.raybestos.com/

mr tl

i need to do something about my brakes too....the best thing to do would be to get the big brake upgrade, but it'll come out to over 3grand CND

id say screw the brake lines. waste of money
i dont know about rotors and pads. some people say cross drilled rotors are no good for street use

i dont know if its wise to put metal master pads with the stock rotors

i dont know what to do

jeff, what do you think? metal master pads with crossdrilled rotors?

i dont think anyone makes slotted rotors for us yet

SL1200MK4

I will look into all the options we have. My rotor is dying... So, I will have to get this done ASAP!!!

Powerslot makes rotor for us I believe, and I think it's okay to use the MetalMaster or other performance pads with stock rotor. Although you are taking the risk or wraping it.

When you step on the brake, the diameter of the rubber brake line can actually change, so you lose brake pressure. The guy at the shop told me that our TL's brakeline are pretty good, so I can save that money. However the steanless steal brake line will basically ensure that you won't lost brake pressure.

speed

IMHO the cross drilled rotors definately look better! I had them in a previous car and they didn't crack. They were made by Brembo though. I guess we should make sure the rotor is from a reputable company!

2K1NighthawkTL

Your warrany covers brakes/brakepads if your still under warranty right?

KJ32

I believe it depends on braking habit. If sudden heavy braking is done all the time around the city. S or CD will both prone to wrap easier comparing to stock since it has less mass to dissapate heat. Even the Comptech catalog warns you about this in a side notes. If it's for track use, after abusing the brake, you have a chance to cool down the brake faster by driving around; whereas in the city, you don't have the luxury to keep cruising for the rotors to cool. I think for average driving around town, keeping stock rotors with performance pads is a better choice. Unless you are going for bigger size CD/S rotor, that's a different story. Do you agree Jeff?

Bitium

Disagree

Pawel

So, what's the final word? Which type of rotor is better for stop and go city driving?
By the way, does Tim offer any pads on his parts page?

mgothers

Wether or not your dealer will resurface for free depends on miles...I have a '00 w/35K when I brought it in, they were no way gonna resurface. The Acura rotors are so damn expensive, I bought PowerStop xdrilled for $100 a piece on the fronts and som Metal master pads, I dig them so far.
(I was warped, thats why I need to either resurface or change).

Word to the wise, if you are gonna replace them yourself, invest $20 in an impact driver or you will strip your screws that hold them on.

matt

Bitium

Your dealer truly sucks!!!!!!!!

My 99' TL got the rotors re-surface at 37k miles. They should re-surface them at anytime under warranty that is 50k or less. They warped again at 48k miles so they offer me crossdrilled rotors for $300 and free installation. They also are replacing the pads with softer ones, under warranty by a bulletin from ACURA. They said that the original pads had too much metal in them, that's why the rotors were warping. I couldn't understand why my pads were lasting so long with the way I drive and brake. My pads got replaced every 12k to 15k miles on my 98 eclipse. I guess they were trying to include the pads on their 100k no tune up.....

Guest

My car, 1997 3.2 TL, is at the dealer as we speak. I took it in for the 60,000k maintenance check. They called (as ususal) and said I need new rotors and front brakes, and while you're at it, you might as well have the rear brakes and rotors replaced also.

I just had my brakes done in March! I have logged about 3,000 miles on them. I think the dealer is trying to con me because they are aftermarket pads (either Midas or Meinike did the brake job, I don't rememeber).

I hear some squeeking when I brake, but not all the time. They want way too much to do the job, $500+ for the front alone.

I'd like some opinions on having the dealer vs Meinike/Midas do the job, if it really is needed.

Are the aftermarket pads used by these type of shops bad for the car?