Alright I finally got my CAI and installed it today. I took it out for a spin and that sound just turns me on. For those of you without a CAI, buy it. It is worth the money just to hear that sound.

Install Tips:
1. Get the dealer to take your resonator off for free during your 7500 mile tuneup.
2. That bracket that you are nervous about removing remove it.
3. When installing the bypass leave them apart until you are ready to put the filter on, this will allow you to put the filter on way easier.
4. Think that the filter will fit and it will happen. I didn't think there was anyway that fliter would fit, but it did.

And now for the pictures.

Here are two of my engine

 

Here is one of the AEM CAI w/ Bypass


I don't know if you guys know about this mod. It a mugen oil cap and it adds a dynotested 5hp and 32lb-ft of torque. Best thing is it was only 19.99. A must buy. Plus the looks alone make me accelerate a good 1 sec faster 0-60.

 

Do you notice an actual performance increase with your AEM intake & bypass? I know they sound better from reading the posts. However, opinions seem to vary when it comes to actually feeling a performance difference. Let me know if you feel something and at what RPM's typically? Also, have you lost any low end power?

Thanks-

 

Nice!!

I just recently joined the CAI family myself.
Check this out:

http://www.acura-tl.com/forum/showth...threadid=32348

TedV: Its hard to notice the performance difference until you really run the RPM's up high. Once the engine gets into the VTEC stage, at around 5000-5500RPM, thats when you really feel and hear the difference. The car before the intake accelerated pretty quick, but now it just lunges ahead, and the engine really roars. I dont have any numbers, just by what I have felt while driving, i can say that it is worth it.

 

The performance is noticable mainly from a stop. You don't loose any power whatsoever. I kid you not when I say the car sounds like a ferrari when it hits vtec. It is like having an exhaust but only when in vtec. When not in vtec there is a slight whistle when you turn off the radio and really listen and are slightly accelerating. It was well worth the money.

 

Nice car, I also have a WDP, thinking about putting a silver AEM CAI in also. great job

 

where can you get one? im interested.

 

Is it really Mugen? Where'd you get it from? Looks alright

BTW, nice color choice

 

i searched online for one and it said $70. where did you get it for $20?

 

man.......i had the bypass valve on my car for about 2 months. It sucked. The car felt like it was struggling when it hit vtec. It sounded like it was sucking in nothing but hot air. When i removed the bypass valve, it sounded so much more clearer and louder. It also feels like vtec is much more responsive than it was with the bypass valve.

2002 Aegean Blue TL Type S
AEM CAI
NEUSPEED STRUT
EIBACH PRO-KIT

 

I got it from a place in Memphis called TKO. I didnt like the sticker so i left it off. It took away the crome look.

 

How did you install the bypass and then take it out? I mean to install the bypass you have to cut the pipe. So how can you just take the bypass out after installing it?

 

did they have blue or any other color? i only see them online, the cheapest is for $50 i've seen oh and how does it add 5 horsies?

 

maybe he scotch-taped it back together....?

 

mbeebe did you have a left over pipe that came in the aem kit?

cause it came with a fat rubber hose and a skinner hose. i used the fatter one to use as a extension to connect it to the lower nipple. but the upper one didnt need one so i ended up not using it.

did i do something wrong or do youhave your skinny tube laying around too?

thanks

 

mbeebe,

great pics and commentary..
I have a AEM CAI w/bypass valve on order

Any problems installing I should be ready for?

 

no, its a very simple install. i enjoyed it. jst be ready to cry when you hear that awesome sound.

oh yea that guy numbaonestunna must have had an extra pipe or used rice to stick the two pipes together.

or even maybe forgot that to install the bypass valve you need to cut the pipe. not just bolt it on the pipe. , im joking numbaonestunna, im just poking fun at you because you have my god damn rims the 18 volk racing te-37. god damn your ride is sweet. i really want a set but low on funds cause of my recent aem cai and comptech exhuast. do you think you can send me your rims? i promise to gove them back to you later

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by mbeebe

I don't know if you guys know about this mod. It a mugen oil cap and it adds a dynotested 5hp and 32lb-ft of torque. Best thing is it was only 19.99. A must buy. Plus the looks alone make me accelerate a good 1 sec faster 0-60.
QUOTE]

Well it seems that this mod alone adds more torque than Headers, Cai, and exhaust and only costs $19.99. Someone really gave you a song and a dance to make you think that this adds 32ft lbs of torque.

 

Sup Folks. What color of AEM's CAI would go best wit my ride. I have a TL-S Anthracite. Lemme know. Thanks

 

How does an oil cap boost horsepower and torque?? Also, what does a picture of a cell phone have to do with this?

 

lol.

 

damn guys, this thread is old! It's like a fossle.

also, your supposed to use both hoses that came with the intake.

as for radiator caps...

The Mugen radiator cap is a high-pressure type that increases the pressure inside the radiator, thus raising the coolant boiling point and increasing cooling efficiency. The open valve pressure is 1.3kg/cm² compared to the normal 1.1kg/cm². It demonstrates its power under high-load situations such as circuit driving.

in other words...

Think of it like a "pressure cooker"...

Increase the pressure and water boils at a higher temp AND, it keeps the "bubbles" around the engine passeges in the block and head from forming (well, from forming as easily)..

A Mr. Wizard experiment would show something like this:

Take a pot with a clear, high temp plastic plate to view water boiling at the bottom of a "plain old" metal pot sitting on a stove with a gas burner underneath. There would need to be a adjustable pressure cap (like a pressure cooker) that you could set from 0lbs to xxx-lbs.

The pot is filled with water and the water stats to bubble at the bottom of the pot (you will see tiny bubbles only at the bottom). At this point in the experiment, there is no pressure since the "pressure limiter/valve" is NOT set (no pressurization is possible at this point as the steam is free to leave with out any impediment).

Now, the flame is left alone, but the pressure valve is turned up to allow pressure to build up. AS the pressure builds up, the bubbling at the bottom stops.

Now, we can turn up the heat (with the current pressure setting). AS the heat is turned up, the water starts forming small bubbles at the bottom (again). AS the pressure valve is turned up, the bubbling stops (again). (This process can be repeated until the maximum pressure of the pressure valve is reached…)

Those bubbles at the bottom create a "layer" of gas that prevents good heat transfer between an engine's walls (or the pots bottom) and the rest of the water. By turning up the pressure, the bubbles do not form and it allows the water (in a liquid state) to remain in contact with the metal surface. Liquid water conducts heat better than water in a gaseous state. By increasing the radiator cap's pressure, it allows for 1) a higher water temp to be reached before it turns to vapor AND 2) it allows the better conduction of the heat away from the engine.

More heat being removed from the engine and heads == cooler engine surfaces and denser air and more HP/TQ!

And, if HP is not a concern, the increase temperature of the water (or glycol/water mix) allows a higher temperature to be reached and this allows a higher difference in temperature between a radiator and the surrounding air; this increase in temperature differential leads to increased cooling (the amount of cooling or heat that can be moved is influenced by the temperature of the radiator and the surrounding air. (THIS is not the reason most of the people here are looking at this fix...)

BTW, the product, "Water Wetter", by Redline also helps to prevent "foaming" inside the engine. It along with a high pressure radiator cap can help to improve heat transfer from the engine and cylinder head.

Downside --> if a system can NOT take a particular pressure, it is possible to blow stuff up -- like hoses and gaskets (among other things).

But this will NOT give you 5 HP and 32lb-ft of tq! Remember, this is mainly for cooling efficiency, when you drive you car hard (i.e circuit racing, track, etc) if you drive your car rather lightly, it's just a pretty radiator cap. I'm considering buying this.

 

I'm selling three Japanese stickers. I don't know what they mean, but if you put them all over your car you gain 8-10 hp to the wheels. Asking 30.00 each, you pay shipping. Serious inquiries only

 

haven't heard many Ferraris have we....

 

personally, i don't think bypass valve is really useful...
I mean how many times if any, do u plan on crossing a river or a creek with ur car? bypass valve only works when it's submerged under water....

i guess if u live in certain areas, it might be useful... but other than that, i think it's waste of money

 

Its only 40 bucks. Better safe than sorry.