Johnny2003TL-S

Thank you in advance

195k. It’s time for me to change out the sub frame on the TL-S. It’s that AC drip. I wish I knew about that issue. Everything has been replaced on this car. Everything maintained.

The welding shop can fabricate the rotted out area and weld it in. They say the rest of the car looks good. They just did a 2003 TL, sane section, last week! Price - $600

Or

My mechanic said to find a good one online and he would give me a favor putting it in. I see good ones from for $250 plus $150 shipping.

With the engine cradle it goes up $100 to $500 including shipping. Those are the ones that look excellent online.

My good Mechanic said labor $250 since he owes me. He’ll also prep it and apply a protectant of my choice if I want. Plus treat the entire undercarriage. His work has all been excellent. So that’s $650-$750. A no brainer vs welding.

-Is the TL-S Frame different than TL?

-Are there any bushings I should replace or have on hand instead of using old ones?

-Should I get the version with the engine cradle for $500 total? Am I creating a lot more work for the mechanic? They look excellent in the photos. I think I’d buy this no matter if I use the cradle or not.

Something is clunking like heck in the bay when put it in drive and park, but cannot figure it out as everything is new and the the engine doesn’t move, or control arms, links, CV, anything.

Johnny2003TL-S

Also, any advice where to by because that would help. If it says type S next to it they want a lot. And return shipping on this would be a sob. TY

thoiboi

engine mount is probably dead.

check out Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market for cheaper parts.


compare type S versus non type s on www.oemacuraparts.com to see if the part # is the same

Johnny2003TL-S

Thanks I’ll check OEM ACURA PARTS for part to see if it’s the same.

I just changed out all the motor mounts and they were expensive as heck. I did not change the transmission mounts at the same time though. The engine isn’t moving when I switch to drive and park. Just banging.

That clunk is ticking me off.

thoiboi

can you record said clunk

Johnny2003TL-S

Yes I can record it with my iPhone. I can get someone outside the car I guess. Heck I can record it from inside!! I see I can attach an MP3. I’ll try. The Acura guy I talked to at oem acura said he bets it’s the old driver side CV axle. I replaced the passenger side. I think it’s too powerful a clunk to be that.

I ordered a Type S, ‘A’ condition sub frame from Allusedparts.com today. They have a lot of information on the donor cars. No engine cradle, but that’s not rotting on my car.

$372 total with shipping. 1 year warranty, all that. So with my mechanic hooking me up and charging $250 labor it’s far better than doing a $600 patch. The car and part are in California so hopefully it’s a CA car.

Arrives Oct 9.

The OEMACURAPARTS.com guy was great today. There is a different part for the sub frame on the standard TL vs S versions. However he went over the photos and specs carefully and can see no difference. He said it could be stiffness or thickness. Also just a very knowledgeable encouraging guy. Gave me a lot of advice.

Thanks again. Any more comments ???

I’d like to heavily treat the thing with something to protect it that bonds with any surface rust. Rust stop primer and then truck bed liner spray cans. Or Rustoleum Coal Tar

thender

Hmmm.... can you explain this issue?

All cars have AC drip; You are suggesting it is leading to sub-frame rot.

Is this a typical issue? Something we should be alert for?

thanks in advance!