Lucky37

I have a 2000 TL that i am going to finally begin working on.

I wanted to ask whether i should put on a TL-S TB with a short ram intake, i hear the sound is really good with the ram. If i do this, will the TB fit on the current manifold i have? would it be worth it to get type S manifold too or should i just get mine ported? oh yeah, also, if i do get the TL-S TB, is it a good idea to port the TB?

I currently have 2-12w3v2 JL subs running off 500.2 phoenix gold, which i think is about 600 RMS. Which UR pulley kit should i go with, the one with smaller crank, larger alt and PS or smaller crank, same size alt and PS, or same size everything?

With this work, how much wheel HP can i expect?

I have searched the threads but exact specifics weren;t found and people keep swaying off topic.

Thanking everyone in anticipation.

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

UR crank pulley produces power

If you go with the TypeS TB, you'll have to come up with a custom CAI. The TypeS has a VSA unit which goes in front of the TB so if you go with a TypeS CAI it will be way too short.

ou sig

if you only have 600 watts RMS then you should be fine with the underdrive crank pulley - you will be boarderline though. I would get the Optima yellow top battery and/or a 1 farad capacitor. With those you will be fine with your current setup and the underdrive pulley.

I wouldnt waste your money on getting the type S TB honestly. Put that money toward some Stone racing headers (ebay for like $300). The headers will give you WAY more power than the Type S TB would.

Lucky37

So what i understand is forget about pulleys, even crank? What about replacing all 3 pulleys with the original sizes, is it worth it? Also, you say go with a cap and capacitor instead, forget the S-TB, what about short ram intake?

Thanx

ou sig

No I said you should be fine with your system and having the smaller lighter crank pulley from Unorthodox Racing - because you only have 600 watts RMS...I have over 1100 RMS, so I would need to stay with the stock sized one. I said get a capacitor and or an Optima Yellow Top battery if you are going to get the smaller pulley - just to make sure you have enough power. You get 98% of the power gain from replacing the crank pulley only - the other 2 are only for looks.

I would get headers over the pulley or intake anytime. They give much more power.

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

Short ram = big on noise, short on power. Might even make LESS power than the stock intake.

patrick

What NSXNEXT said. Or alternatively, you can bore out your OEM TL-P TB (which is what I had done). That way you can stay with any TL-P CAI or short ram intake that's available on the market. My

DUB_TL

hey I was thinking of doing the S-TB also but I never thought about just doing what patrick said and bore it out. Would it cost less than buying a junked TB??

Lucky37

If a go to a local machine shop, what do i tell them to dore it out to? isn't it at 2.5" right now? Is the S-TB 3"? Hey Patrick, i'm seriously concidering your so if you can tell us what you bored yours out to, that would be great. So do you regret going with the short ram, would you go with a full CAI now that youve seen the RAM in action?

patrick

Obviously a full CAI would be ideal. But I've heard that there aren't too much differences between a short ram and CAI once the car is in motion. If you live in a hot climate (eg: California or Florida), then a CAI is better than short ram. But if you live in a cooler climate (eg: in Canada), the differences isn't that great - you're sucking in cooler air regardless. I went with the short ram mainly because it was cheaper than going with CAI.

I don't know what my speed shop bored my TB out to, because I forgot to ask. If your local speed shop has machining tools, they can do this very easily (assuming they do this kind of stuff). Or alternatively, you could get King Motorsports to bore out your TB - same idea, see link below:

http://www.kingmotorsports.com/produ...173&vehicle=TL

patrick

Can't say...you'll need to contact a junkyard and your local speed shop to find out. Good luck to ya tho!

Lucky37

I found some nice OBX headers, one set is Ceramic the other Stainless steel. If i go with a Short RAM intake, do i want the Ceramic over the Stainless? why is the stainless 75 dollars more? whats the difference, theyre all the same size, right?

Also, anyone heard of the new GTX startup synthetic? 90% of engine wear is done on startup, so they definately have my attention, i'm trying to find out what i can about this.

ou sig

dont get OBX headers...and REALLY DONT GET OBX CERAMIC HEADERS!!! they suck ass and the ceramic coating will flake off and they will rust; get Stone racing headers, Alphawerks, Megan or Comptech (if you have some serious money).

Also any synthetic will be much better at protecting during startup vs. dyno oil. Most of us use Mobil 1 - you can get the 5 quart jug at WalMart for around $22.

Lucky37

I am currently using Mobil 1, there was a whole long thread on this earlier with the million mile closed circuit test and all, but the new GTX apaprently has anodized/ionized particles that help bond to the parts but still keeps its synthetic properties that we love so much. I'm still learning about it.