Adjusting engine valves
Thread Starter
Cruisin'
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
Adjusting engine valves
Can someone tell me if this is true?
My valves need to be adjusted on my 1999 3.2 tl; the rattling is really loud. The dealer quoted me $310.00.
He said since it is a 99 that the head gaskets would have to be pull and replaced.
I ask why and he said that they would leak oil if not replaced.
Also, would a bad PCV be another reason for the rattle?
Does anyone know how much a service manual for the 99 3.2 tl cost and where
I could get one?
My valves need to be adjusted on my 1999 3.2 tl; the rattling is really loud. The dealer quoted me $310.00.
He said since it is a 99 that the head gaskets would have to be pull and replaced.
I ask why and he said that they would leak oil if not replaced.
Also, would a bad PCV be another reason for the rattle?
Does anyone know how much a service manual for the 99 3.2 tl cost and where
I could get one?
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,853
Likes: 91
From: DC
Originally Posted by tnewyes
Can someone tell me if this is true?
My valves need to be adjusted on my 1999 3.2 tl; the rattling is really loud. The dealer quoted me $310.00.
He said since it is a 99 that the head gaskets would have to be pull and replaced.
I ask why and he said that they would leak oil if not replaced.
Also, would a bad PCV be another reason for the rattle?
Does anyone know how much a service manual for the 99 3.2 tl cost and where
I could get one?
My valves need to be adjusted on my 1999 3.2 tl; the rattling is really loud. The dealer quoted me $310.00.
He said since it is a 99 that the head gaskets would have to be pull and replaced.
I ask why and he said that they would leak oil if not replaced.
Also, would a bad PCV be another reason for the rattle?
Does anyone know how much a service manual for the 99 3.2 tl cost and where
I could get one?
Senior Moderator
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 81,385
Likes: 3,068
From: Appleton WI
They dont need to replace the Head Gaskets. They should however replace the valve cover gaskets.
PCV valve wouldn't cause the rattle.
You can get a factory service manual from Helms inc.
Are you sure its the valves and not the Purge Control Solenoid?
PCV valve wouldn't cause the rattle.
You can get a factory service manual from Helms inc.
Are you sure its the valves and not the Purge Control Solenoid?
Thread Starter
Cruisin'
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
Maybe that's what he said (valve cover gaskets). I kinda shut down when he said $310.00
because I thought adjusting the valves was something simple. You always see that as part
of the schedule maintence. You know how it reads "inspect brake pads inspect whatever else you can think of and adjust whatever").
I'm pretty handy with tools but I'll take your advice and look in the phone book for a private shop.
Thanks everybody
because I thought adjusting the valves was something simple. You always see that as part
of the schedule maintence. You know how it reads "inspect brake pads inspect whatever else you can think of and adjust whatever").
I'm pretty handy with tools but I'll take your advice and look in the phone book for a private shop.
Thanks everybody
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Thread Starter
Cruisin'
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
I figure it was the valves because of some of the symptoms;
1. When the car is cold I don't hear the rattle it happens when the engine gets warm.
2. I hear it going up hills at a slow speed.
3. I hear it when I accelerate.
4. I hear it at low RPM.
1. When the car is cold I don't hear the rattle it happens when the engine gets warm.
2. I hear it going up hills at a slow speed.
3. I hear it when I accelerate.
4. I hear it at low RPM.
Senior Moderator
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 81,385
Likes: 3,068
From: Appleton WI
Originally Posted by tnewyes
Maybe that's what he said (valve cover gaskets). I kinda shut down when he said $310.00
because I thought adjusting the valves was something simple. You always see that as part
of the schedule maintence. You know how it reads "inspect brake pads inspect whatever else you can think of and adjust whatever").
I'm pretty handy with tools but I'll take your advice and look in the phone book for a private shop.
Thanks everybody
because I thought adjusting the valves was something simple. You always see that as part
of the schedule maintence. You know how it reads "inspect brake pads inspect whatever else you can think of and adjust whatever").
I'm pretty handy with tools but I'll take your advice and look in the phone book for a private shop.
Thanks everybody
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 33,535
Likes: 1,142
Some things I am happy to pay someone else to fix
This is one of them!
Run some Seafoam before and afterwards to clean the valve sealing edges and
make the whole system run better.
Throw in some NGK Iridium or Platinum spark plugs while they are in there for you.
Makes car like new
This is one of them!
Run some Seafoam before and afterwards to clean the valve sealing edges and
make the whole system run better.
Throw in some NGK Iridium or Platinum spark plugs while they are in there for you.
Makes car like new
(especially in the crankcase)
MUCH bigger than you!!
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
From: Lexington, KY
This sounds like the EXACT SAME thing I'm experiencing right now.
Originally Posted by tnewyes
I figure it was the valves because of some of the symptoms;
1. When the car is cold I don't hear the rattle it happens when the engine gets warm.
2. I hear it going up hills at a slow speed.
3. I hear it when I accelerate.
4. I hear it at low RPM.
1. When the car is cold I don't hear the rattle it happens when the engine gets warm.
2. I hear it going up hills at a slow speed.
3. I hear it when I accelerate.
4. I hear it at low RPM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 33,535
Likes: 1,142
Regarding seafoam
In this case, pour the whole pint can into the engine thru the oil cap
Run it for 15 to 30 minutes before dropping car off for service
That will dissolve lots of sludge buildup in the oil passages- and those operate the valves,
so having them clean before adjustment is good. Have the shop change the oil while its there so you leave with fresh everything. Tell them you ran cleaner thru it and change oil before they drive after valve adjustment. Otherwise they see that really bad looking oil and get concerned
You would pay 100$ for this same intake cleaning service
Use a 2nd can right now- the vac tube method with 15 minute soak before restart and part of can in gas tank for internal cleaning of fuel injector sprayers
see thread Seafoamed the ol TL for 10 pages of directions
Seafoam 8 bucks per can
In this case, pour the whole pint can into the engine thru the oil cap
Run it for 15 to 30 minutes before dropping car off for service
That will dissolve lots of sludge buildup in the oil passages- and those operate the valves,
so having them clean before adjustment is good. Have the shop change the oil while its there so you leave with fresh everything. Tell them you ran cleaner thru it and change oil before they drive after valve adjustment. Otherwise they see that really bad looking oil and get concerned
You would pay 100$ for this same intake cleaning service
Use a 2nd can right now- the vac tube method with 15 minute soak before restart and part of can in gas tank for internal cleaning of fuel injector sprayers
see thread Seafoamed the ol TL for 10 pages of directions
Seafoam 8 bucks per can
MUCH bigger than you!!
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
From: Lexington, KY
Sorry about the bump, but I'm curious if you have found out anything else about this problem.
Originally Posted by tnewyes
I figure it was the valves because of some of the symptoms;
1. When the car is cold I don't hear the rattle it happens when the engine gets warm.
2. I hear it going up hills at a slow speed.
3. I hear it when I accelerate.
4. I hear it at low RPM.
1. When the car is cold I don't hear the rattle it happens when the engine gets warm.
2. I hear it going up hills at a slow speed.
3. I hear it when I accelerate.
4. I hear it at low RPM.
Suzuka Master
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 5,846
Likes: 24
From: Oreland, Pa
Originally Posted by tnewyes
Yes, it was the valves. I just got them adjusted and my car is riding so smooth. I love it.
The dealership charged me $225.00 for the adjustment.
The dealership charged me $225.00 for the adjustment.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 211
Likes: 11
From: NYC/Long Island
Originally Posted by tnewyes
I figure it was the valves because of some of the symptoms;
1. When the car is cold I don't hear the rattle it happens when the engine gets warm.
2. I hear it going up hills at a slow speed.
3. I hear it when I accelerate.
4. I hear it at low RPM.
1. When the car is cold I don't hear the rattle it happens when the engine gets warm.
2. I hear it going up hills at a slow speed.
3. I hear it when I accelerate.
4. I hear it at low RPM.
edit: just read further and saw that u got the valves done and it seems better...
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 114
Likes: 1
From: Salina, Kansas
I'm just gonna ask a question here rather than starting a new thread. My 03 TL-S has about 63,000 miles on it, could the valves need adjusted this early? When i drive down the ally at work, and when i drive by parked cars the engine sounds like its clicking really fast( for lack of a better word). Its even worse when the engine is cold. Its not the purge control solenoid, i had that replaced under warranty, and its pretty quite now. I wouldn't mind spending a couple hundred to get them adjusted if that is the problem. Any thoughts?
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