Acid on the battery
Acid on the battery
Todays I could not start my car. Under the hood I found that "+" battery connector was covered by huge amount of acid. In fast one side of the connector was completely eaten by acid! I cleaned it and fixed temportally with some wire, then I could start the car and drive to the dealer. I'm waiting now when new wire will arrive to the dealer (hopefully tomorrow) so they will replace it. What I'm wondering is what might be a reason for such a severe acid problem. I should admit that I didn't look at the battery for more than year but still this is 40,000 miles mostly freeway driven car in CA. Should I consider battery replacement? It works OK and shows green color in that small window on top. Thanks.
When the car gets driven the alternator, from the deep and heavy draw of the starter, recharges the battery. So when the battery is getting recharged it's also going to get a little warm/hot along with the increased engine temps and being in the (for the most part) enclosed area of the engine bay.
When the battery gets heated up, hydrochloric acid takes the form of a gas and needs to vent out of the battery. Vents are designed in to the battery case to do just that so it doesn't rupture and cause a REAL mess. After the car is driven and shut down the gasses are still escaping the battery case for a while longer. When the gasses cool they rarely go back into the case so thusly they become heavier than air. The battery posts, since they’re made of lead, are a big attractant to these gases that in time will form corrosion (that white flaky stuff). So there's the source.
Now......how to prevent it from happening again....when the new cable gets put in and probably a new battery as well, coat both terminals with bearing grease with your finger. Don't worry, you won't get shocked or anything.
I've been doing this for about 20 years and had never had the problem since.
Good luck!
That reminds me, I just got my TL-S last week and I need to do this.
When the battery gets heated up, hydrochloric acid takes the form of a gas and needs to vent out of the battery. Vents are designed in to the battery case to do just that so it doesn't rupture and cause a REAL mess. After the car is driven and shut down the gasses are still escaping the battery case for a while longer. When the gasses cool they rarely go back into the case so thusly they become heavier than air. The battery posts, since they’re made of lead, are a big attractant to these gases that in time will form corrosion (that white flaky stuff). So there's the source.
Now......how to prevent it from happening again....when the new cable gets put in and probably a new battery as well, coat both terminals with bearing grease with your finger. Don't worry, you won't get shocked or anything.
I've been doing this for about 20 years and had never had the problem since.
Good luck!
That reminds me, I just got my TL-S last week and I need to do this.
10th Gear
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 12
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Hey it happened to my car too! There was alot of corrosion on the connectors. I jumped it, drove it to the dealer and they installed a new battery. They said to periodically check it and clean it. Which remindes me, I haven't looked at it since. :P
BE VERY CAREFUL OF THOSE ACID!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Check them often like 2-3 days in this month, and make sure it doesn't escape anything...
The reason I said that was I had the same problem with my accord couple years ago, those acid gave me so much mess that, I have to end up tossed the battery and sand down almost everything of the front end corner and paint it. People said those acid eats stuff and get everywhere... YOu really have to see it to believe it, and it could be your worse nightmere.
I replaced it with an Optima battery ever since, I can't deal with those acid anymore...
A shop said probably the way of my driving ( High G's ) causing that, so Optima is the way to go.
The reason I said that was I had the same problem with my accord couple years ago, those acid gave me so much mess that, I have to end up tossed the battery and sand down almost everything of the front end corner and paint it. People said those acid eats stuff and get everywhere... YOu really have to see it to believe it, and it could be your worse nightmere.
I replaced it with an Optima battery ever since, I can't deal with those acid anymore...
A shop said probably the way of my driving ( High G's ) causing that, so Optima is the way to go.
I forgot to mention this caution. Don't smoke around a battery, the acid gas is explosive!
Also an unrelated warning, if you think a car has leaks in the air conditioning system don't smoke around it either. I believe this only pertains to the old R-12 refrigerant and not the R-134A. If the old R-12 starts to burn it creates fosgene (sp?) gas and that stuff is deadly.
Also an unrelated warning, if you think a car has leaks in the air conditioning system don't smoke around it either. I believe this only pertains to the old R-12 refrigerant and not the R-134A. If the old R-12 starts to burn it creates fosgene (sp?) gas and that stuff is deadly.
Thanks for all replays! One more question: the dealer is going to replace the wire/connector on my car since it has been damaged by asid but I guess he is not going to replace battery. Shoudl the battery be replaced? It starts car just fine and shows green in the check window. Is it possible that still something wrong with the battery and this is the reason for the asid problem? What is the warranty for the battery? Same as for other parts 4/50000?
Thanks.
Thanks.
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battery spray, yes that would work!- vaseline- a non flammable barrier- and use those felt pads under the terminals-
the green dot is worthless, the dealer cant test the battery/charging system properly until the wires are back on. Then they will test the alt- battery and starter drain- hopefully
If not- go to kragen type parts store and they will do same test for free
Battery replacement brand is your choice- but factory ones last about 3, maybe 4 years
Good today and good next month on a trip in the heat running all the electrics....
the green dot is worthless, the dealer cant test the battery/charging system properly until the wires are back on. Then they will test the alt- battery and starter drain- hopefully
If not- go to kragen type parts store and they will do same test for free
Battery replacement brand is your choice- but factory ones last about 3, maybe 4 years
Good today and good next month on a trip in the heat running all the electrics....
hey, that happend to me and everyone at my high school saw my car getting towed away that morning since i had to leave it over night since i was at school late.. tow truckers didn't want to come this late... 
everyone asked me, wat happend?!?!... yea. it sucked.. but after they replaced the wires and such... the battery died.. i asked the mechanic, he said. usually, when the acid leaks a lot.. your battery is for sure going to die soon. just my story..

everyone asked me, wat happend?!?!... yea. it sucked.. but after they replaced the wires and such... the battery died.. i asked the mechanic, he said. usually, when the acid leaks a lot.. your battery is for sure going to die soon. just my story..
its still good info for all to read-
clean the terminals and post- coat them with something- keep an eye out for corrosion,
which I looked and saw a small amount today on my 01 doh! That led to the truck and camper batteries being checked- after winter down-time, they are looking bad as well.
Time to get the baking soda and water- the wire brush and protectant out-
maybe replace the battery cables in total
Springtime service on the car- its cheaper than a breakdown, and good ground and spark make a better running TL
clean the terminals and post- coat them with something- keep an eye out for corrosion,
which I looked and saw a small amount today on my 01 doh! That led to the truck and camper batteries being checked- after winter down-time, they are looking bad as well.
Time to get the baking soda and water- the wire brush and protectant out-
maybe replace the battery cables in total
Springtime service on the car- its cheaper than a breakdown, and good ground and spark make a better running TL
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