The IM I bought didn't come with an actuator or any of the hardware.

 

the imrc is the electronic control thats mounted in the car. you running a standalode triger is all you need. So you need the actuator and cable then right?

 

So when you install the rpm switch, are you planning to write a step by step instructions? It would be very helpful.

 

I can certainly provide some guidance in installing the rpm switch and connecting it to the IMRC.

 

Yeah it was a bit over $100 for all the parts, brackets, screws, cable and actuator.

The dealer lost my order so it looks like the install will have to wait till next week.

 

Ok, if you just need a RPM signal you could try the tach test connector, which is a 2 pin connector near the air intake on the driver side shock tower. It is a blue wire and the polarity is AC. Here is a diagram too that might be helpful. It has the wire colors on the TPS which you could the RPM signal from too. This probably is the best place to get it from if I'm not mistaken. Now there are 3 wires on the TPS and I'm not sure which is the signal for the RPM. One will be power, one will be ground and one will be power.



If you want me to email you the file so you can zoom in shoot me an email at excelerate@sbcglobal.net and I will email it back.

 

can you email me the files please? nst416@hotmail.com

 

I looked in the engine bay where you said the rpm signal wire would be located but I can't find it. Could you take a picture of it? I would really apreciate it if you can.

 

hey, just wired up my bypass valve actuator with the rpm switch. The good news is that it opens the valve in the manifold. Bad news is that, it doesn't shut the valve back . Unless I push it back myself . Any ideas?

 

Aren't there two settings on the switch open and closed. What are your RPMs settings for each?

I haven't played with mine yet, but I'm gonna guess open is 3100 rpms and closed is 3000 rpms?

Are you using the MSD 8969?


Can you post some pics of where you tapped the rpm signal wire?

 

yes i'm using the MSD 8969

and to answer your rpm signal question,
RPM signal

 

yes i'm using the MSD 8969

and to answer your rpm signal question,
RPM signal

 

Hey Silv_Accord_V6,

Did you ever figure out your bypass valve problem. I think I may have the answer. I read on another forum to set the close rpm setting to something like 9000 rpms. Basically once it opens it will stay open. When it drops below the rpm setting for open, it will close.

 

Wired it up and set it up to so it sends a voltage signal to the bypass valve actuator at 3800 rpm and it opens up the intake manifold to gain the full potential of the motor. When VTEC kicks in at 4800 rpm, the car pulls WAY HARDER than it did before when the actuator didn't work. I think I will take a video of it later and post it up.

Here are the pictures:

RPM signal from the 03 CL-S 6speed ECU

 

Thanks. I think my wiring harness is different on the J32A1 so I'll have to check that out.

Then I gotta figure out when to activate it. I don't think it'll work with the setting from a TypeS.

 

its weird that they have it open at such a low rpm. 3K isnt very high. Has any one set it to the open position all teh time to see if there is any side effect down low?

Also neil, i think the signal from the ecu for your car is still the blue wire, just on a different harness location

 

The ecu should adjust for the extra amount of air, you'd be amazed how much the a/f changes and how much the ecu adjust to the changes. On a side note, in this case, it would have been a good idea to get the MDX intake manifold also. It outflows the tl-p manifold, and flows almost as well as the type s manifold with the second stage open. But the good part of it all is that it doesnt need to use an actuator.

 

With the second stage closed, the manifold can maintain a nice amount of intake velocity. Better velocity means better throttle response and more tq down low. As rpms raise and more air is needed, the second port opens alowing the motor to take in more air at higher rpms while maintaining a proper velocity.

 

Part #9 is the bypass valve actuator. I thought I remember reading something on another board that the MDX IM won't work on our car.




And for what I paid for my TypeS IM, it would have been significantly more money to get the MDX.

 

Hey Neil,

If I remember correctly it was a clearance issue with the mdx manifold. the hood will not close on our cars b/e the int mani. is too tall. I think the mdx manifold has a couple of spacers between the intake and the engine block, I could be mistaken but i think that was the issue.

 

it can be made to fit. itnjut takes some work

 

I know this thread is old but I just put a Type-S IM on my 01 CL. I got the BVA and MSD switch to work but not really pleased with it. I'm just going to take the plates off to see if there is a difference.

 

I'm kinda bummed...don't know which one is better.

 

I still havent install the rpm switch. Let me know what happens when you remove the plates.

 

I unplugged the switch and the IMRC. Plates are off in the IM. But it pulls harder throughout the entire RPM band. Try it when you get a chance.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...7&page=2&pp=25

Chime in this discussion to if you want.

 

I'm gonna start this up once more...that lower intake manifold is a BIATCH!!! I had to bend the studs on the front runners to get the front piece off. How the hell did you successfully get the damn thing off. (this is usually how I remove something, and then spend forever replacing the part).

The Type S manifold better be worth it...and another note...I am going to try running this without the plates.

GreenMachine, you replied to me saying you wanted that supercharger effect from the BVA opening up. I didn't mention the main difference that I am turbocharged. I think being open will actually benifit me more. We'll see, and if not I will get those parts.

And lastly, can you guys please give the next guy a step by step for removing that lower IM on the 99. Unless I am completely retarded, I couldn't find any reasonable way to get it off. And the manual was useless on this.

Thanks

 

^^you just have to work at it little by little. the first time it is pretty hard, but it goes in easier, and comes out easier too from there on out

 

I think I'm going to have to try this if i can find everything I'll need, but what's the exact parts list?

 

OLLLDD threaddddd


ps.
if you or somebody you know can do it... its more worth it to just buy the S motor.

 

09 manifold

 

I'm not going to give you the part #s because it would take me all day.

From either a CLS or TLS
intake manifold
lower intake manifold (f&r) (a.k.a injector bases)
fuel rails (f&r)
12 fuel injectors
fuel pressure regulator
hoses from FPR to injectors
throttle body
air intake
Miscellaneous hoses, gaskets, clamps, bolts, nuts

You're going to need to get a piece of 3" aluminum tube to make up the gap between since you will not be using the VSA unit. The intake hose will be about 3 or 4" short.

 

does that go for the 2000 tl changing all those parts... becuz i got a whole 03 type s motor layin in the garage i just want to change the intake manny thats all... Do i got to do the same as the 99.. and 1 more thing can u activate thevalve actuator with the vtec???

 

You don't need anything more than the upper intake manifold, TypeS throttle body and airbox, the actuator, an MSD rpm switch.

You need to tap into the rpm signal maintenance port which is located near the driver's side shock tower (small yellowish plug with a black rubber boot over it).