5W-20 at last!
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From: Downey CA
5W-20 at last!
Well, after reading all the posts about nobody being able to find any 5W20 oil, I decided to go to my Pep Boys and see what I could find. I checked Valvoline, Havoline, Castrol, Quaker State, Mobil and, lastly, I checked Pennzoil. Voila! There it was - 5W20 for $1.69 per quart. It even says on the case - "Formulated for 2001 Honda and Ford vehicles." I bought a case and also picked up a new Fram X-2 filter.
Originally posted by lonny
That's the ONLY oil viscosity mentioned in the owner's manual.
That's the ONLY oil viscosity mentioned in the owner's manual.
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Well, yes, but what I meant to say was that the required oil is 5w20. The manual does say you can use 5W30, but it still tells you to use 5W20. In any event, 5W20 is now available so there should not be any problems.
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I did not see 5W20 in Castrol. Not many companies make the 5W20 but I think that is going to change since lots of Honda and Ford products now use that weight. Maybe Mobil 1 will come out with a 5W20 soon.
It really isn't thicker, but will flow better at startup/ and when cold. That is the real reason they want you to use it for lower emissions at startup.
On the other hand, it may not provide much margin in the bearings under heavy load./
What mpg benefit are you talking about -/ it is fractional at best -aren't the EPA ratings the same?
On the other hand, it may not provide much margin in the bearings under heavy load./
What mpg benefit are you talking about -/ it is fractional at best -aren't the EPA ratings the same?
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I am not speaking from personal experience, but several people have posted that their MPG went down when they used 5W30. I have even seen on oil company sites that the 5W30 will give you less MPG than 5W20. Just passing along what I have read!
Hmmm
That's interesting, I just put Mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic in last night. I actually heard some folks getting 3-4 mpgs better mileage with the 5w-30 synthetic.
Either way, I asked the dealer about it when I picked up the filter. They told me that Acura has communicated with them that 5w-30 is fine since the 5w-20 is not yet readily available.
I know what the manual says but, I'll give the synthetic a go and see what gives.
Just my $.02...
Either way, I asked the dealer about it when I picked up the filter. They told me that Acura has communicated with them that 5w-30 is fine since the 5w-20 is not yet readily available.
I know what the manual says but, I'll give the synthetic a go and see what gives.
Just my $.02...
Re: Hmmm
Originally posted by rockinTLS
That's interesting, I just put Mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic in last night. I actually heard some folks getting 3-4 mpgs better mileage with the 5w-30 synthetic.
Either way, I asked the dealer about it when I picked up the filter. They told me that Acura has communicated with them that 5w-30 is fine since the 5w-20 is not yet readily available.
I know what the manual says but, I'll give the synthetic a go and see what gives.
Just my $.02...
That's interesting, I just put Mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic in last night. I actually heard some folks getting 3-4 mpgs better mileage with the 5w-30 synthetic.
Either way, I asked the dealer about it when I picked up the filter. They told me that Acura has communicated with them that 5w-30 is fine since the 5w-20 is not yet readily available.
I know what the manual says but, I'll give the synthetic a go and see what gives.
Just my $.02...
1) 3k is fine for Mobil One - modern cars seat the rings much faster, and they are lower tension to begin with
2) Redline recommends about twice that time - 5-6k, or at the second oil change.
I repeat - there is no way you will see 3MPG from switching to synthetic - a fraction of an mpg at best, which still adds up over time and with extended drains.
The real benefit is wear reduction, cleanliness, and longevity - issues if you race or plan to keep your vehicle a long time.
2) Redline recommends about twice that time - 5-6k, or at the second oil change.
I repeat - there is no way you will see 3MPG from switching to synthetic - a fraction of an mpg at best, which still adds up over time and with extended drains.
The real benefit is wear reduction, cleanliness, and longevity - issues if you race or plan to keep your vehicle a long time.
Exactly 4197.
Questioning my actions after reading your response, I called the dealer and they also recommended doing the first change with non-synthetic or waiting until 5,000 before using Syn. Oops. I must have not made my question too clear yesterday when I bought the filter. Anyway, I was originally going to wait until the second change but since I ended up doing it myself (dealer was booked) I put in Mobil 1. Dealer said today that it would not hurt anything. I will keep an eye on it.
Was planning on a highway run soon and could not wait for the dealer to fit me in for a change.
There is certainly a difference of opinion. I believe some on the forum may have put in the synthetic this early also with no ill effects.
Questioning my actions after reading your response, I called the dealer and they also recommended doing the first change with non-synthetic or waiting until 5,000 before using Syn. Oops. I must have not made my question too clear yesterday when I bought the filter. Anyway, I was originally going to wait until the second change but since I ended up doing it myself (dealer was booked) I put in Mobil 1. Dealer said today that it would not hurt anything. I will keep an eye on it.
Was planning on a highway run soon and could not wait for the dealer to fit me in for a change.
There is certainly a difference of opinion. I believe some on the forum may have put in the synthetic this early also with no ill effects.
I don't know about the winter thing mentioned before because I rarely see winter here, but when I had my RX7 the guys at Rotary Performance sadi that 5w-20 was better because of the heat down here, plus the rotary is a hot A$$ running motor as it is. Over all I think Road Rage hit the nail on the head about the wear reduction, cleanliness, and longevity-
Originally posted by Road Rage
3k is fine for Mobil One - modern cars seat the rings much faster, and they are lower tension to begin with
I repeat - there is no way you will see 3MPG from switching to synthetic - a fraction of an mpg at best, which still adds up over time and with extended drains.
The real benefit is wear reduction, cleanliness, and longevity - issues if you race or plan to keep your vehicle a long time.
3k is fine for Mobil One - modern cars seat the rings much faster, and they are lower tension to begin with
I repeat - there is no way you will see 3MPG from switching to synthetic - a fraction of an mpg at best, which still adds up over time and with extended drains.
The real benefit is wear reduction, cleanliness, and longevity - issues if you race or plan to keep your vehicle a long time.
Hope the Amsoil flame guy is not lurking tonight.....
Here is some more oil obsession from Rage:
All things being equal, here are the benfits of light weight oils:
1) Oil pressure is built more quickly due to high pumpability
2) Engine warms up faster and catalytics "light off" faster for lower emissions
3) More HP (small, goes up as RPM's increase or are sustained - that is why racers use 30 wt
4) Slightly better fuel efficiency]
5) Better thermal efficiency since oil pumps throught a bit faster
Downsides:
1) Oil can shear down in high load areas to a point where more wear can occur (bearings, cam lobes)
2) High temperature viscosity is lower - may not be the best choice for sustained high rpm or load use
3) Long-term effects in American driving conditions not as substantial as 5 or 10W30
I haven't seen a spec sheet to compare volatility indexes (that is the rate of evaporation at a standard temperature). The lighter oil factions in 20 weight may make for higher volatility, which can mean more oil consumption.
Two other points about synlubes (G4 or better):
1) They cool more efficiently because their molecular structure picks up heat better, and exchanges it to other surfaces better. This is an adjunct to frictional benefits they also have
2) They are cleaner. Not only because of higher detergency characteristics and TBN (a spec which indicates ability to resist acidifcation and oxidation), but because the monomolecular structure and elimination of sulfurs and tars mean the oil itself does not produce dirt by the de-refining process. Rememebr that mineral oil has to be refined to remove the asphalts, etc. This is done with heat - the temps in an engine begin to reverse the process, slowly but surely, from the moment you start thje engine.
So did I Cliff Claven you, or is this sort of detail something you guys find interesting and helpful? I need to know, as I try to modulate the science of some of my posts to fit the demands of the Gang.
I sometimes feel many of you prefer gossip and heresay - some guy I challenged about a big MPG increase from an oil change responded to that challenge by saying he was just passing along info - I did not get that - passing along info without thinking about it helps WHO exactly?
Here is some more oil obsession from Rage:
All things being equal, here are the benfits of light weight oils:
1) Oil pressure is built more quickly due to high pumpability
2) Engine warms up faster and catalytics "light off" faster for lower emissions
3) More HP (small, goes up as RPM's increase or are sustained - that is why racers use 30 wt
4) Slightly better fuel efficiency]
5) Better thermal efficiency since oil pumps throught a bit faster
Downsides:
1) Oil can shear down in high load areas to a point where more wear can occur (bearings, cam lobes)
2) High temperature viscosity is lower - may not be the best choice for sustained high rpm or load use
3) Long-term effects in American driving conditions not as substantial as 5 or 10W30
I haven't seen a spec sheet to compare volatility indexes (that is the rate of evaporation at a standard temperature). The lighter oil factions in 20 weight may make for higher volatility, which can mean more oil consumption.
Two other points about synlubes (G4 or better):
1) They cool more efficiently because their molecular structure picks up heat better, and exchanges it to other surfaces better. This is an adjunct to frictional benefits they also have
2) They are cleaner. Not only because of higher detergency characteristics and TBN (a spec which indicates ability to resist acidifcation and oxidation), but because the monomolecular structure and elimination of sulfurs and tars mean the oil itself does not produce dirt by the de-refining process. Rememebr that mineral oil has to be refined to remove the asphalts, etc. This is done with heat - the temps in an engine begin to reverse the process, slowly but surely, from the moment you start thje engine.
So did I Cliff Claven you, or is this sort of detail something you guys find interesting and helpful? I need to know, as I try to modulate the science of some of my posts to fit the demands of the Gang.
I sometimes feel many of you prefer gossip and heresay - some guy I challenged about a big MPG increase from an oil change responded to that challenge by saying he was just passing along info - I did not get that - passing along info without thinking about it helps WHO exactly?
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Well, I just hit 5,000 miles and took my car in today for its first oil change. I took my Pennzoil 5W20 and Fram filter with me for them to use. Then I noticed in the parts dept they have Honda
5W20 oil in stock (Downey Acura) and indeed, it is made by Mobil! I guess the dealers are starting to get in the 5W20 now.
5W20 oil in stock (Downey Acura) and indeed, it is made by Mobil! I guess the dealers are starting to get in the 5W20 now.
I just bought a case of Red Line 5W20. My dealer doesn't have anything but 5w30. My last oil change I asked for 5w20, and was told no problem. When I picked up my car it was Valvoline 5w30.
How many quarts do you need to give the dealer when you bring in your own oil?
How many quarts do you need to give the dealer when you bring in your own oil?
Re: Re: 5w-20wt Motor Oil
Everyone Try 5w 20, i used castrol GTX, and i think i got 30 more miles from previous. I changed my oil change at 3,000 miles and it did increase my mileage for at least one week.. I usually drives city and getting 320 miles.. since it's been only one week.. i'll find out more..
Break-In oil change
I want to thank RoadRage and everyone else on this forum for all the fantastic information and great posts! I hope to contribute something useful some day, but for now all I can do is learn from you all and ask questions.
I will make sure that if my dealer doesn't have 5w20 he can use mine. I found a supply of Penzoil locally, at Kragen ($1.81/Qt). I have a question though. Most of you are changeing the break-in oil at 3-5000 miles. My dealer's service department recommends changing the TLS break-in oil at 7,500. He told me that Acura puts "additives" into the oil at the factory and that to get the most benefit during break-in you should let that oil work for the full 7500 miles. I can't think what incentive he might have to tell me that unless it's true. So...any opinions?
I will make sure that if my dealer doesn't have 5w20 he can use mine. I found a supply of Penzoil locally, at Kragen ($1.81/Qt). I have a question though. Most of you are changeing the break-in oil at 3-5000 miles. My dealer's service department recommends changing the TLS break-in oil at 7,500. He told me that Acura puts "additives" into the oil at the factory and that to get the most benefit during break-in you should let that oil work for the full 7500 miles. I can't think what incentive he might have to tell me that unless it's true. So...any opinions?
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