3x3 fluid change or have dealer change for me?
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
3x3 fluid change or have dealer change for me?
ok so i just reached 107,xxx miles and tranny decided to start slippin a bit between gears so im wondering the next step to take...
should i go to the dealer and have them give me a tranny flush for x amount of $
of should i go buy the DW1 and do a 3x3 flush? what do you guys suggest...
i called my nearest acura dealer, which is about 30 minute drive away, and they quoted $92 flush...i'm wondering if that's the real price
then i called the honda dealership down the street from me and they said just about $8/qt of DW1 so 14qt of that is quite hefty price
which would be the best route to go, and if i get dealer to do it should i take it to acura or honda?
2002 TL-P---107xxx
should i go to the dealer and have them give me a tranny flush for x amount of $
of should i go buy the DW1 and do a 3x3 flush? what do you guys suggest...
i called my nearest acura dealer, which is about 30 minute drive away, and they quoted $92 flush...i'm wondering if that's the real price
then i called the honda dealership down the street from me and they said just about $8/qt of DW1 so 14qt of that is quite hefty price
which would be the best route to go, and if i get dealer to do it should i take it to acura or honda?
2002 TL-P---107xxx
#2
10th Gear
Do the 3x3, you can do it at your leisure and its fairly easy to do. Also just buy a case of fluid it'll be cheaper. I'm fairly certain the Acura dealer isn't going to do an actual flush, they'll most likely do a 3x3 as well.
#4
acura does a 1x3 for 100 bucks
anyone here will tell you slipping is bad news --not cured by lots of new fluid
and certainly not by a 3x3!!!!
is this original trans to car?
you can try 1 drain and refill of 3.4 qts abd see how it does
try cleaning the shift-pressure external selenoids
Start looking for 1500$ to get a used oddesey trans
anyone here will tell you slipping is bad news --not cured by lots of new fluid
and certainly not by a 3x3!!!!
is this original trans to car?
you can try 1 drain and refill of 3.4 qts abd see how it does
try cleaning the shift-pressure external selenoids
Start looking for 1500$ to get a used oddesey trans
#5
honda sells dw-1 for less than acura
or an import parts/ speed shop
or an import parts/ speed shop
#6
2000 TL Black on Beige
iTrader: (1)
The local Honda dealership parts counter gives me a 25% discount on all parts.
Just be cool, tell them you do your own work, and you want a 25% discount.
Ask them to "put you in the system" under first name and phone number.
Then, when you want more parts in the future, you can call in the orders. Get a case.
The first time you break the drain plug, you might find it really tight. Mine was.
Just be cool, tell them you do your own work, and you want a 25% discount.
Ask them to "put you in the system" under first name and phone number.
Then, when you want more parts in the future, you can call in the orders. Get a case.
The first time you break the drain plug, you might find it really tight. Mine was.
#7
Pro
Thread Starter
damn, i was afraid someone would suggest i should look into a new tranny. this is the original with the oil jet installed in 2004. it JUST started happening, it's a slight slip only under heavy acceleration around 5000 rpm.
what years odyssey are the trannys worth swapping over? also, i've read of some people swapping in accord trannys too?
looked under the car at work today, and what did everyone use to remove the drain bolt? it looks like a 1/2" socket wrench would just fit right in? or am i being stupid and there's actually a tool lol
what years odyssey are the trannys worth swapping over? also, i've read of some people swapping in accord trannys too?
looked under the car at work today, and what did everyone use to remove the drain bolt? it looks like a 1/2" socket wrench would just fit right in? or am i being stupid and there's actually a tool lol
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#9
Pro
Thread Starter
guess i'll try a drain when i get a chance this week, hopefully tomorrow, and see how things go.
as for cleaning shift-pressure solenoids? any diy or quick instruction on how? i don't even know the location
as for cleaning shift-pressure solenoids? any diy or quick instruction on how? i don't even know the location
#10
2000 TL Black on Beige
iTrader: (1)
Ya got some homework to do. Buncha reading.
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/p0700-1740-transmission-code-832205/
Me, I'd leave the switches alone until after a few D/Fs of ATF
#11
I second that motion also.. Mine was slipping and I opened up the switch solenoids and found out they were clean, bolted them right up and overtighted them and snapped one off, it was tough to get into the spot also, I ordered from Majestic Honda $5.76 for a quart, just type in 08200-9008 for the part number and read on how to do it, everything was shifting smooth after that.. Good luck
#12
Rediculous honda aft cost for the lousy transmission. Generally, you pay 10 bucks a pop. Bad honda fluid, bad transmission, and consumers are paying for your lousy workmanship fixes. they should provide half price discount on 2nd gen transmission service. That is when I see they stand behind their products.
Just do it yourself, or get the fluid yourself and pay labor at an independent shop; stay away from stealership.
Just do it yourself, or get the fluid yourself and pay labor at an independent shop; stay away from stealership.
#13
Pro
Thread Starter
looks like the verdict is stay away from dealership--check
hopefully i'll have time this weekend or maybe early in the morning before work sometime.
$5 a quart?? wow i gotta get in on that! lol
hopefully i'll have time this weekend or maybe early in the morning before work sometime.
$5 a quart?? wow i gotta get in on that! lol
#16
because the clutches are shot and you want to keep driving it!!
If trans was perfect= go play!
half a clue will tell you standing on it -running vtec rpm, and hard driving
are going to put a quick end to a slipping trans clutches
read of the 2nd and 3rd gear issues to understand-- then stop doing that!!!
I dont understand why others are suggesting a 3x3 on an original trans with no stated history of fluid change
thats asking for trouble
note- ALWAYS make sure the fill bolt- in this case the jet kit can be removed to refill trans,,using dipstick hole is a pita
to remove drain plug insert a normal 3/8 drive breaker bar or sturdy ratchet
its made for that size
may require an extender bar to generate some torque
supposed to be 29 foot pounds but the years have made the parts stick together
try tightening slightly then loosen
pretreat with wd or similar
our diy master list link is the 3rd item down on main list-
If trans was perfect= go play!
half a clue will tell you standing on it -running vtec rpm, and hard driving
are going to put a quick end to a slipping trans clutches
read of the 2nd and 3rd gear issues to understand-- then stop doing that!!!
I dont understand why others are suggesting a 3x3 on an original trans with no stated history of fluid change
thats asking for trouble
note- ALWAYS make sure the fill bolt- in this case the jet kit can be removed to refill trans,,using dipstick hole is a pita
to remove drain plug insert a normal 3/8 drive breaker bar or sturdy ratchet
its made for that size
may require an extender bar to generate some torque
supposed to be 29 foot pounds but the years have made the parts stick together
try tightening slightly then loosen
pretreat with wd or similar
our diy master list link is the 3rd item down on main list-
#17
Pro
Thread Starter
well i just picked up 4 quarts of DW1 from honda this morning for $36 so when i'm off work i'll do a quick D/F.
i'm second owner and i have record receipts that show the fluid was changed at 72,000 miles.
should i feel any sort of improvement? if no improvement, should i even bother buying more DW1 and continuing?
i'm second owner and i have record receipts that show the fluid was changed at 72,000 miles.
should i feel any sort of improvement? if no improvement, should i even bother buying more DW1 and continuing?
#18
measure amount removed---3.0 to 3.4 will drain depending on temp and patience
drive 10 minutes after making sure plugs will open
then drain and let it drip
too much or too little fluid put back in will put an end to your trans
how much fluid was changed at 72?
7.sum is total capacity
stop using trans hard if you want it to live
you should feel some differance with the new fluid
which direction is the question
a 3 oz sample of atf to blackstone labs with 20 bucks-
will tell you if the clutches are coming apart and any other wear issue
they mass spectrograph it!
drive 10 minutes after making sure plugs will open
then drain and let it drip
too much or too little fluid put back in will put an end to your trans
how much fluid was changed at 72?
7.sum is total capacity
stop using trans hard if you want it to live
you should feel some differance with the new fluid
which direction is the question
a 3 oz sample of atf to blackstone labs with 20 bucks-
will tell you if the clutches are coming apart and any other wear issue
they mass spectrograph it!
#19
2000 TL Black on Beige
iTrader: (1)
My 2000 TL never takes more than 3 quarts even to be mid-line cold, and at the top dot when hot.
The first time you break the plug loose, it'll probably seem really tight. They have a way of welding on.
You'll wipe all kings of crud off the magnet on the end of the plug for the first couple D/Fs.
The first time you break the plug loose, it'll probably seem really tight. They have a way of welding on.
You'll wipe all kings of crud off the magnet on the end of the plug for the first couple D/Fs.
#20
Pro
Thread Starter
well the old sheet from the dealership, says "transmission fluid exchange - machine"
i'm guessing that's a full service? idk
anyways, jacking it up after work today to do the 1x3 hopefully things go smooth and my tranny totally doesn't shit the bed anytime soon
i'm guessing that's a full service? idk
anyways, jacking it up after work today to do the 1x3 hopefully things go smooth and my tranny totally doesn't shit the bed anytime soon
#21
If you have high mileage and worried about your tranny, nobody says that you must drain the full 1x3 out. Just drain & fill 2 qts and see how it goes. Then you can do a 1x3 drain a couple of weeks later. But really, a 1x3 alone should not be any problem.
I did a 3x3 on mine over the span of 3 months (1x3 every month) just to be safe.
I did a 3x3 on mine over the span of 3 months (1x3 every month) just to be safe.
#22
Pro
Thread Starter
drained out about 3.25 quarts and refilled the exact same amount.
--shifting feels incredibly smoother and quicker. it doesn't slip anymore like it did before, i cant wait to do the rest of the 3x3.
one question though::
when you check the dipstick, are you supposed to see any fluid above the 2 holes??
i rechecked over and over and found that the fluid reaches about 2 inches above the top hole. i let out more a bit of fluid and it seems to have dropped a bit after checking...is this normal??
im wondering if when the dealer serviced the tranny last, they overfilled?
--shifting feels incredibly smoother and quicker. it doesn't slip anymore like it did before, i cant wait to do the rest of the 3x3.
one question though::
when you check the dipstick, are you supposed to see any fluid above the 2 holes??
i rechecked over and over and found that the fluid reaches about 2 inches above the top hole. i let out more a bit of fluid and it seems to have dropped a bit after checking...is this normal??
im wondering if when the dealer serviced the tranny last, they overfilled?
#23
Pro
Thread Starter
Also, since I'm lowered and have the lip kit I had to jack up the front at the tow hooks on both driver and passenger side to get a jack stand under the jack points
Will jacking the car up at the tow points cause any damage?? I wanna know if there's a better spot to jack up or put stands before I do next d/f
Will jacking the car up at the tow points cause any damage?? I wanna know if there's a better spot to jack up or put stands before I do next d/f
#24
the Correct procedure for fluid level ck
car cold
drive 15 minutes/miles on freeway,,without use of stop and go roads first,,
off freeway at 15, park safe level spot
engine off trans in PARK
remove stick,wipe-insert and remove to read
level needs to read BETWEEN THE DOTS at that temp
car cold
drive 15 minutes/miles on freeway,,without use of stop and go roads first,,
off freeway at 15, park safe level spot
engine off trans in PARK
remove stick,wipe-insert and remove to read
level needs to read BETWEEN THE DOTS at that temp
#25
a machine fluid exchange means a full fluid changeout
acura uses a machine its ok for us
commercial shops use wrong fluid!
acura uses a machine its ok for us
commercial shops use wrong fluid!
#26
Check the fluid dipstick on a level surface after a drive. I have to park it on the road to check mine as the slightest grade on my driveway throws off the reading substantially. If you are over, you can easily drain out a few ounces at a time and recheck.
#27
Pro
Thread Starter
hmmm i've always been told to check the fluid after a 10 minute drive and then check the dipstick while the motor is running...
anyways...is it ok to jack the front of the car up by the tow points? or will that bend the frame/chassis. im trying to figure out best place to put jack stands
anyways...is it ok to jack the front of the car up by the tow points? or will that bend the frame/chassis. im trying to figure out best place to put jack stands
#28
I don't ever touch the tow points on any car. I put the jack (with a block of wood to even the load) on the wide end of the frame under the front doors. Jack it up slowly and put your stand on the jack point (shown in the manual).
And you need to check the tranny fluid with the engine off, as stated in the manual.
And you need to check the tranny fluid with the engine off, as stated in the manual.
#31
2000 TL Black on Beige
iTrader: (1)
Just because you removed 3.25 qts doesn't mean you put 3.25 back.
If the wrong amount was installed by someone else, then you are blindly repeating their error.
Hot = between the points.
I'll repeat myself herre in case you missed an earlier post.
My trans takes 3 quarts even on a D/F. It reads between the points cold and smack at the high dot when hot.
2" above the "Fill" line may not cause any issue. Garages have overfilled my vehicles in the past, but why worry about it?
Hey, did all kings of crud come off the plug magnet?
If the wrong amount was installed by someone else, then you are blindly repeating their error.
Hot = between the points.
I'll repeat myself herre in case you missed an earlier post.
My trans takes 3 quarts even on a D/F. It reads between the points cold and smack at the high dot when hot.
2" above the "Fill" line may not cause any issue. Garages have overfilled my vehicles in the past, but why worry about it?
Hey, did all kings of crud come off the plug magnet?
#32
Pro
Thread Starter
since my car is lowered i always find it difficult to find proper points to jack the car up and then place jack stands. i've been jacking up by the front tow points since that's the only place i can fit my floor jack under because of my lip kit lol and putting stands on the jack points.
since it's not a good idea to jack it up by tow points guess i'll have to finagle another spot to jack up from now on.
i let some fluid out and now the level is between the two dots so im good. nothing really came off the plug magnet, just what looked like oil sludge thats it. no metal shavings or pieces.
car shifts much nicer now after the first 1x3 and am planning to do second d/f on friday. still will feel a random slip of about 200 rpm while cruising on highway casual driving so am thinking i'm going to keep bank balance up to swap a 6speed or maybe drop an automatic out of an odyssey or something. whatever everyone thinks is best--i do miss driving a stick
since it's not a good idea to jack it up by tow points guess i'll have to finagle another spot to jack up from now on.
i let some fluid out and now the level is between the two dots so im good. nothing really came off the plug magnet, just what looked like oil sludge thats it. no metal shavings or pieces.
car shifts much nicer now after the first 1x3 and am planning to do second d/f on friday. still will feel a random slip of about 200 rpm while cruising on highway casual driving so am thinking i'm going to keep bank balance up to swap a 6speed or maybe drop an automatic out of an odyssey or something. whatever everyone thinks is best--i do miss driving a stick
#33
sperry: level ckd warm 15 minutes freeway drive as BETWEEN the dots
never above or at top hole at that medium temp
if your plan is to remove old crud fluid= do max 5 minute drive between drains
using each and every gear up and down a few times ( p and n too),,max speed 35mph
never above or at top hole at that medium temp
if your plan is to remove old crud fluid= do max 5 minute drive between drains
using each and every gear up and down a few times ( p and n too),,max speed 35mph
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Sperry (08-01-2012)
#34
Hello and sorry for enter this thread but I have an Acura TL 99 3.2 recently purchased and going through checks and maintenance for the car. My car has 133 k and I want to take care of my automatic transmission. I head about 3x3 I just dont know why is called 3x3 but I take is what is showing on the video above ?. My car has never had a transmission replaced so I wanted to check and see if I can do whats being done on the video"? It would be safe? Or should I go to an Acura dealer and let them do it?. I just want to learn and take care as much as possible my newly acquired Acura.
Or should I perform a "flush"
Any advice highly appreciated.
New Acura owner in training for maintenance
Thanks all
Or should I perform a "flush"
Any advice highly appreciated.
New Acura owner in training for maintenance
Thanks all
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