2002 Acura TL Type S Multiple problems at once
Thread Starter
8th Gear
Joined: May 2015
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2002 Acura TL Type S Multiple problems at once
Hello everyone and thank you in advance for any help.
I've had a 2002 Acura TL Type S for about 3 years. It has run very well and has not really gave me much trouble besides minor things.
However, in the last couple of months, I've had multiple major things go wrong with it. Here is list of things in the order they happened:
Now with my limited knowledge about automobiles, I have feeling that this has something to do with the battery because all of this stuff is happening within a couple of months or at the same time. I haven't changed it out yet because I would like to hear thoughts about it from people who actually know what they are talking about. The battery is still within warranty.
Again, thanks for any help in advance.
I've had a 2002 Acura TL Type S for about 3 years. It has run very well and has not really gave me much trouble besides minor things.
However, in the last couple of months, I've had multiple major things go wrong with it. Here is list of things in the order they happened:
Now with my limited knowledge about automobiles, I have feeling that this has something to do with the battery because all of this stuff is happening within a couple of months or at the same time. I haven't changed it out yet because I would like to hear thoughts about it from people who actually know what they are talking about. The battery is still within warranty.
Again, thanks for any help in advance.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 743
Likes: 94
It's time to replace your o2 sensor 1. It's in front of your cat, underneath the car below the passenger seat. ~$50 and you can diy that, just don't bang the sensor on anything they're fragile. You'll need a special socket for it.
Also, clean your iacv, and your egr ports and passages. This is also diy with a couple cans of tb/carb cleaner, the instructions are all over the place here.
Last, your ground cables could be on their way out, causing electrical problems. They are braided cables attaching to your frame under the hood and there are several of them.
Also, clean your iacv, and your egr ports and passages. This is also diy with a couple cans of tb/carb cleaner, the instructions are all over the place here.
Last, your ground cables could be on their way out, causing electrical problems. They are braided cables attaching to your frame under the hood and there are several of them.
Last edited by Chojun; May 10, 2015 at 12:05 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 33,535
Likes: 1,142
go have the battery tested!
Low volts will mess with the car in a major way
Bad ground wires are a known problem as well, the main one from batt and the 5 small braided wire ones from frame to engine
Surge at idle can be dirty IACV and or O2 sensor
Yes bank 1 is the FRONT O2 sensor, easy to replace Use DENSO brand - its the oe supplier
You know the trick to reset the ECU and clear codes? = remove clock fuse for 1 minute- passenger end of dash or kick panel
miles? services done like spark plugs using correct NGK, timing belt?
Removed intake manifold to clean EGR system inside the manifold and service IACV at the same time = needed every 75kmiles and not in the book~
A failing O2 sensor will make it run really bad- in the way you describe, and kill your mpg
Start with an electrical system test at any parts store = FREE!
Low volts will mess with the car in a major way
Bad ground wires are a known problem as well, the main one from batt and the 5 small braided wire ones from frame to engine
Surge at idle can be dirty IACV and or O2 sensor
Yes bank 1 is the FRONT O2 sensor, easy to replace Use DENSO brand - its the oe supplier
You know the trick to reset the ECU and clear codes? = remove clock fuse for 1 minute- passenger end of dash or kick panel
miles? services done like spark plugs using correct NGK, timing belt?
Removed intake manifold to clean EGR system inside the manifold and service IACV at the same time = needed every 75kmiles and not in the book~
A failing O2 sensor will make it run really bad- in the way you describe, and kill your mpg
Start with an electrical system test at any parts store = FREE!
Last edited by 01tl4tl; May 10, 2015 at 12:09 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 33,535
Likes: 1,142
on the cabin fan, the power connector under front of glove box has an issue with wire corrosion, pulling loose from contacts, rusting etc
It may look fine from the front but flip it over and see the melted plastic
You can wire around the connector diy fix
If power is surging to blower system it could burn out your new parts
It may look fine from the front but flip it over and see the melted plastic
You can wire around the connector diy fix
If power is surging to blower system it could burn out your new parts
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 2,824
Likes: 483
From: NorCal
OP,
I think you may have a short in your Climate Control System. That’s why your blower motor is malfunctioning and why your battery is draining after you park your car for a few days.
The Climate Control Unit (CCU) has a self-diagnostic function built in to the system. To activate it, do the following.
1. Turn the ignition on (II position). Dash lights on, engine not running.
2. Press the CCU “Auto” button and then the “Off” button. Continue to hold both buttons for 1 minute.
If there is a problem with the system then the temperature indicator will throw out an error code. It will be displayed on the 2 digit temperature indicator. It will flash between the numbers 88 and the error code. The code will display as 1 “Digital” line segment of the number 88.
The digital number 8 has 7 segments, 6 on the perimeter and 1 in the middle forming the digital number 8. The number 88 will have 14 segments. It is double digits because there are only 2 spaces on the display. Each segment will represent a different set of problem.
It’s hard to explain but, you will understand once it’s lite up. If you get an error code, please take a picture of it and post it here. I will let you know what it means.
To display the error code you may need to hold down the CCU buttons Auto and Off or it may flash between the numbers 88 and the error code.
I think you may have a short in your Climate Control System. That’s why your blower motor is malfunctioning and why your battery is draining after you park your car for a few days.
The Climate Control Unit (CCU) has a self-diagnostic function built in to the system. To activate it, do the following.
1. Turn the ignition on (II position). Dash lights on, engine not running.
2. Press the CCU “Auto” button and then the “Off” button. Continue to hold both buttons for 1 minute.
If there is a problem with the system then the temperature indicator will throw out an error code. It will be displayed on the 2 digit temperature indicator. It will flash between the numbers 88 and the error code. The code will display as 1 “Digital” line segment of the number 88.
The digital number 8 has 7 segments, 6 on the perimeter and 1 in the middle forming the digital number 8. The number 88 will have 14 segments. It is double digits because there are only 2 spaces on the display. Each segment will represent a different set of problem.
It’s hard to explain but, you will understand once it’s lite up. If you get an error code, please take a picture of it and post it here. I will let you know what it means.
To display the error code you may need to hold down the CCU buttons Auto and Off or it may flash between the numbers 88 and the error code.
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8th Gear
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Drifting
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From: NorCal
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