Well I knew the brakes were going and bad, but now all of a sudden they are done for. Pedal to the mat barely getting brakes. Now in an effort to save as much money as I can (Car was free) I will do as much as I can myself.

I already replaced the front pads last summer, that is actually the first time I have touched brakes, ever. Now it needs rotars all around, pads in the back and a serious bleed out. There 'might' be a leak some where because I can never really get pressure in the pedal. Even before this.

Anyways, I have read some stuff and watched the vids, but I am no mechanic and really dont like fooling with brakes! Is there any thing out of the ordinary that I should know before I start? Any input would really help!

Thanks people..

 

Woah woah, dont worry we are here to help you

There is A DIY section to change out the rotors

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-116/diy-rotors-pads-%2A%2Ahow-w-pictures%2A%2A-620983/
^^^^
This tells you what you need of requirements and if you dont have the nessesary tools, you can rent them at a local shop like Pepboys, Autoparts and more

Now, If you looking for Rotors for front and rears, look up on Brakemotive

https://acurazine.com/forums/sponsored-sales-group-buys-10/brakemotive-drilled-slotted-brake-kits-lowest-prices-ever-809114/
^^^
Sine we have the same year "2001" They will charge you 160$ with shipping Including front and rears Ceramic brake pads and front and rear rotors

 

^^^^
Also, If you want a more responsive braking, Get "Stainless Steel Brake Lines"

http://store.excelerateperformance.c...s/c-10046.aspx
^^^
They will be VERY helpful forr you and your rotors and also they will prolong your rotors life be decreasing some hot tempertures

Another good upgrade is to switch out to Dual Piston calipers off from a 1995 Acura Legend Coupe, They make your braking distance even more shorter according to the threads

Hope this helps!

 

Thanks! I have seen that thread before very helpful. The only thing I didnt remember is how those to bolts with the rubber boots sat. When I retightened i squished them then backed them off..

Seems like the job can be done with basic tools. The biggest thing that worries me is there might be a leak and last time I bled the system there didnt seem to me any change in anything...

 

and I PM Brakemotive about there brake deal, thanks!

 

Anytime man!

Also, From Brakemotive, it will shipped the same day when you purchase from them
Like ... 2-4 days!

I order mines on a Wensday and received them on a Friday morning. Fast shipping! And comes with a warranty

 

Be careful here......

Pedal going all the way to the floor is probably not pad or rotor related. There's a leak in the system. Check the master cylinder for fluid levels, and if it's low, top it up. Find a dry clean piece of pavement and pump the brakes a few times and then look underneath and around the car for fluid on the ground. If you see something, there's your problem.

If you don't find anything then check all the pads, although the "squealers" should have gone off if the pads are really worn.

Make sure you're not leaking fluid first as pads and rotors typically won't fix a mushy brake pedal.

Good luck !

 

the sqealers are going off in the back, been getting rubbing for a while. Also rotars are junk, can tell from looking at them. Thanks for the heads up about the leak. I have had to retop the rez off here and there since owning the car. Are leaks hard/expensive to fix?

 

BTW the pedal went from soft to floored one day. Actually me X was borrowing the car for a while and she told me it happened one day.. This is why I want to do as much as I can myself, so if there are bigger problems I can put my $ to them..

 

Good news, thanks

 

As Smartypants previously posted, ya probably have other issues with your brake system. Check the rear caliper pistons. If you're not comfortable with brakework, ya may wanna get some help checking for a possible leak. Also, there's a specific bleeding procedure.
Do some research on the site for more detailed info.

 

First and foremost......If you have to top off brake fluid because of a leak STOP DRIVING the car. Especially if the pedal goes to the floor. FIND the leak before doing anything.

 

the master res fluid will be very LOW when all the pads are shot- calipers have to extend farther so fluid moves downline to do the job

tip!!! special bleed order on the TL is:
Start at driver front, bleed till clear and no bubbles, then the passenger front,,pass rear, driver rear is last,
takes about 1.5 qts total for a good job
LF RF RR LR if you did the rears first you messed yourself up
use DOT4 spec fluid,,get 2 16oz bottles 4$ each, synth or plain doesnt matter for the average driver