TLGirl0090

About 2 & 1/2 months ago after stopping at a stop sign my car started making a creaking/groaning sound.. It was only doing it occassionaly such as when i took off from a complete stop, then it started also doing it when i would turn, but as of recently, it is CONSTANT ..
My boyfriend changed the outer tierod on that side because it had a lot of play in the joint, he also sprayed lubricant all over everything, the noise went away for like 2 days. then, it came back... -_-. It makes that sound very loud and at all times now. I attached a video of the sound. I am hoping there is someone who can help me figure out what it might be.
I have done alot of research and it seems like it could be a strut or a control arm bushing, but my boyfriend said it sounds more like a metal on metal sound..


Anything helps.. Thanks!!!

TLGirl0090

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...-sound-924931/


forgot to mention that it makes the same exact sound as this guys tl when pushing down on it from the outside of the vehicle.

MarcDavidoff

My first bet would be lower ball joint. That is pretty loud. Looks like you have very cold weather as well..seems to bring out creaks even more. It could also be the shock mount or upper control arm bushings, but I'm thinking lower ball joint. I would check for play by jacking up the wheel and getting a large bar under the tire and pry up to see if there is any play.

ErickUa5

Save your self from the danger and expense of a ball joint letting go.
Go to your mechanic of choice to have the suspension checked out and fixed, You caught it on time. Definitely sounds like a lower ball joint.

Dabu

I have a creaking noise as well, only thing is I've already changed both my lower ball joints, both my upper control arms w/ ball joints, both my shocks, both my inner and out tie rod ends, both my sway bar links and sway bar bushings and I STILL have the occasional creak.. no freaking clue at this point..

TLGirl0090

OK, so heres an update. Today my bf replaced the driverside upper control arm with a new one from advance auto, and he also replaced the strut with a used one from a local auto place. He said the strut look newer and was a kyb brand which shouldve been better than oem. So far since he replaced those parts the noise is gone! The only issue was that after he put everythig back together and test drove it, the car made 1 single loud pop driving straight down the road. He thinks that it was just the strut settling so hopefully thats all it was.. The steering feels more responsive now so Im hoping my worries are over!

01tl4tl

no pop is a good noise! nothing settles- its installed correctly or its not

time to go back and see what wasn't in place!

a kyb shock came out or went in? its much stiffer than stock strut.
Upper control arm bushings are a popular failure these days~

ErickUa5

Check your springs for rust, on the upper and lower part.
Spray wd-40 and see if it goes away. The spring insulator breaks off leaving metal to metal contact then rust = squeak.

Dabu

I'll blast the springs with some wd-40 before leaving work and see how the ride home is.. I should point out the noise is more present/louder when the wheels are turned which would probably indicate a tie rod but I've changed them already.

TLGirl0090

A used kyb strut is what was put on. He said that there was a plastic piece on top of the spring on the old strut that was cracked that he believes let water into the mount and created rust which was the cause of the squeak/creak/groan. Just got back from a 10 mile or so drive and there are no signs of any pops or creaks anymore......yet lol

MarcDavidoff

Sounds like you found the issue then which is good. I think I would get the mated pair for that kyb shock assembly otherwise you now have two different shocks/springs and as mentioned they may make affect the cars handling

TLGirl0090

Ok so the noise came back......... it started off very slightly when I was leaving work and by the time i got home it was full blown back again!!
So after this discovery my bf changed out the driverside lower ball joint with a moog problem solver and the front brake pads while he was at it. He was doubting it was the lower ball joint that was causing the noise because he installed a driveworks brand from autozone over the summer, but it was a cheap part so it may have failed prematurely or whatever. After the replacement we went for a good 50 mile round trip drive and so far no noise again yet. Someone pray to the acura gods for me that this is the end of this nightmare, once this is fixed for good thn I can start figuring out my evap leak problem so i can get my inspection done.

01tl4tl

We can walk you thru any problem

because its suspension and some guessing has occurred, stop by an alignment shop and ask for an inspection. Let them know whats been happening
These people work on that part of the car all day- every day and can spot issues
you might not think of

that pop noise still needs a visual inspection of proper shock attachment and fit!

Were sway bar end links already mentioned?? a common TL problem
Is this car lowered or driven thru potholes frequently?

TLGirl0090

So far as of right now the noise hasnt reappeared after the lower ball joint was replaced. When the ball joint was being replaced the strut was inspected and it was installed correctly, so maybe the pop couldve came from the ball joint? Idk but I just hope its gone for good now. To sum it up I changed out so far upper control arm, strut, brake pads, and lower ball joint. Sway bar links and bushings were done 2 years ago. I do plan on bringing it into a shop to get my nys inspection done soon so they should be looking over the suspension. I just want to get the check engine light to go off first before I bring it in to minimize costs. And to answer your last question no its not lowered. Stock height. But being in upstate ny sometimes potholes are un avoidable.

01tl4tl

ok--now your evap problem
what makes you say that's causing the CEL- what codes exactly is it giving?
parts stores ck those for free, report them back here!

the evap valve near driver firewall makes a noise not affecting its operation,
the egr system clogs inside the intake manifold- needs a DIY cleanout every 75kmiles, will throw `insufficient egr lift` codes and the like

After repairs and reset of the computer (ECU) it takes some driving cycles/days of use before it will pass most state inspections- requires enough info stored in the ecu to say all is well with the emissions controls

01tl4tl

its always good to have the car looked at- yours in this case- before a state inspection that you don't want to fail

the POP noise after ball joint install could be install issue with torque and position joint was in when tightened

any small private alignment place--even big names, will inspect to see if its together right, and if other parts are good.... or can they make money from you???
(but watch yourself- take a man with you,, I am sorry to say- its true)

TLGirl0090

The code Im getting is p1457. I bought a new evap canister shut off valve or whatever because Ive read that is usually the cause of the code, but have not had it installed yet. If you have any advice on anything else that might cause this code feel free to shoot some ideas at me. The pop was only present once after replacing the strut and upper arm. It has not come back at all after replacing the lower ball joint with a moog part.

Dabu

P1457 is a Major Evap Leak.. here's a thread on how to repair it: https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...cement-729920/

Dabu

Can worn out lower control arm bushings cause creaking/squeaking?

I sprayed the area down with some silicon based lubricant and the noise seemed to go away and now several days later it's back.

At this point I've replaced just about every major suspension component except for the lower control arms.

TLGirl0090

Ok, so just an update. The noise has not come back at all since the ball joint was changed!!! Today I had the canister and shut valve replaced to hopefully solve the evap leak. My bf reset the check engine light after changing those parts and so far after 40 miles of driving the light has not come back on! So hopefully it stays off!

NBP04TL4ME

Sounds like progress it being made...........

max4swag

I have the same noise on my 2000 and it does it each time I hit a bump or any road imperfections went to the shop and everything is tight even the shop couldn't tell where it was coming from so I came to believe that it might be my right sway bar bushing that's causing this issue

Dabu

I had my sway bar bushings go bad last year, it caused a loud knocking/banging noise right under my feet that I could feel, $20 later it was fixed.

I made a comment earlier in this thread I don't think anyone saw about a creaking/squeaking noise possibly coming from the Lower Control Arms.

From what I understand worn out bushings on the Lower Control Arm can cause a squeaking/creaking noise, maybe someone more knowledgeable can chime in.

max4swag

For the past 2 months during winter and extreme cold my car was making a screeching noise each time I went over any kind of bump couldn't find the culprit and now it quit doing it and started doing it only when I turn the steering wheel ... This is a mystery would like to know for sure went to a local shop and they couldn't find it !?!?!

NBP04TL4ME

OP - any more recent updates?

Dabu

Could be tie rod ends.. I had those go bad on me recently and they made a squeaking/creaking noise that was louder when turning.

TLGirl0090

As of now the noise has not returned at all after the lower ball joint was replaced so that is what is to be believed to be the true fix of the issue. But in the process the upper arm, strut, and brake pads were replaced as well. I forgot to mention, the sway bar bushings were also changed about a month ago because those were the original suspect. Lower ball joint was the true culprit tho. Its been a few hundred miles since the shut valve and canister were replaced and the check engine light has not returned! I jusr passed my annual new york state inspection yesterday. So all has been good... until today that is when I hop in the car after to getting froceries and she wouldnt start!! Luckily that only turned out to be my negative battery cable was completely corroded! Had that replaced and now shes back to running like champ!

NBP04TL4ME

Sounds good -

TLGirl0090

Definetly!