If I purchase the AV6 transmission somewhere, whether it be online or at a junk yard, do I have to tell the mechanic anything about the swap or can I just drop my car and trans off and he'll know what to do? Of course Ill take it to a trans place and not just a regular shop. But yeah is it much more too it than that? I do want to do it myself but I don't have a garage and it would be much faster with a professional who has done these already.

 

You should call around and make sure you get a shop willing to do it. Most don't seem to want to attempt it. Also best to print out the instructions on the AV6 swap thread and bring it to the shop

 

Not sure if you bought a tranny yet, but you may want to at least look at Willow Creek out of SC. They did me solid about 2 years ago when my TLS tranny crapped on me. I didn't know about the Accord swap at the time. Willow Creek seems to specialize in the honda's. I got a rebuilt TLS tranny for like 1750 delivered. w/ 2 year/unlimited miles. Its been 2 years and 50k and not even a hiccup. I had some transmission guy that wanted to initially rob me , but he ended up putting it the WC tranny for like $1,300.00. WC says they put new o-rings, seals, and gaskets, and we use high energy steel and friction clutches, new differential bearings, a heavy duty torque converter, a new internal filter and an add-on inline cooler filter. At the end of the day it was like 3k, but worth it. I just had a fear of picking up a used one up that hadn't crapped yet. The WC guys have pretty good reviews. Could I have gotten it done for $2,000 -2,500 total. Yes, but only with a 30 day warranty.

 

Dont forget the rear main seal to be changed out.

 

Now is a good time to replace the engine mounts.

 

Front motor mount (vac boosted) and passenger side (normal rubber) are the common failures,
front going 1st then taking out the side from excess strain

with trans removed it takes a minute,,maybe 5, to change the front mount!! compared to a few hours (billed) for the job with trans installed

 

^ This! Might as well replace the motor mounts while your in there.





XLR8 Engine Mounts - Excelerate Performance - Japanese and European Performance Specialists!!

 

OK then, question - what advantage does the vac-boosted front mount offer? I need to replace front and side mounts and am leaning OEM unless someone can convince me what the vacuum does that I would care about.

My guess is that under higher RPM the vac boost is higher = stiffer engine mount?

 

Our engine mounts are polyurethane so there is no need for the vac boost. You can simply plug any vacuum lines by following the line back to the source and installing a vacuum cap or by plugging the end of the vacuum line.

 

the OE vac mount on Gen2 allows the mount to soften at idle for comfort,
then on acceleration it stiffens for better performance - resistance to torque binding

I am not aware of any graduated settings based on throttle, just vac is pulling or not

Many like the solid mounts for longevity, if you are willing to make a small tradeoff

 

The difference between the two is going to be noticeable at idle.

You will feel it in the steering wheel...

OEM will be ultra smooth.

Sold mounts will shake/vibrate at idle.

 

Sounds good - looks like I'll switch mine out with the solid mounts since I am not too concerned about comfort over performance. Wouldn't adjusting the valves get rid of some of the vibrations?

 

Yeah but not all vibrations.

 

Our solid mounts will add some vibration in the cabin, but it will mostly be at idle. You'll also find it will break in after a couple thousand miles and the vibrations won't be as bad.