1st PS Fluid Flush done @ 185,000 - Do it twice?
#1
1st PS Fluid Flush done @ 185,000 - Do it twice?
I'm a little ashamed of myself, but somehow I've overlooked maintenance on my power steering fluid for a LONG time. I'd emptied and refilled (once) just the reservoir years ago, but never done a complete fluid replacement. Anyway, I just ran about 40 oz of new fluid in, displacing the old fluid out the return line, which is about the capacity of the system. Genuine OEM PS fluid, of course. I've seen threads on power steering pump failures occurring a week or two after a flush; the common theme seems to be getting air in the lines, but who knows. To go slow and keep any air out, I flushed mine with the engine off, tires off the ground, displacing fluid by turning the wheel stop to stop. Simple procedure.
The old fluid was dark - like, coffee dark. It's better now, but I've only improved to about strong tea. I know it doesn't take much dark fluid to change the color, but here's where I may be overthinking this thing... Is it possible that the new fluid is loosening/flushing the gunk that's been settled in the corners of the system, and that this gunk is actually what can fail a PS pump shortly after a flush?? If so, and since I went so long before a real flush, would it be advisable to do a second flush right away, to get all of this out??
Anyway, I'm looking for some opinions -- Do a second PS fluid flush, or leave well enough alone and let it ride til next flush in about 60k.
Thanks!
The old fluid was dark - like, coffee dark. It's better now, but I've only improved to about strong tea. I know it doesn't take much dark fluid to change the color, but here's where I may be overthinking this thing... Is it possible that the new fluid is loosening/flushing the gunk that's been settled in the corners of the system, and that this gunk is actually what can fail a PS pump shortly after a flush?? If so, and since I went so long before a real flush, would it be advisable to do a second flush right away, to get all of this out??
Anyway, I'm looking for some opinions -- Do a second PS fluid flush, or leave well enough alone and let it ride til next flush in about 60k.
Thanks!
#2
Three Wheelin'
I've flushed mine a few times over the years. Common failure theme is not using Honda PS fluid so you are good to go on that front.
Not sure you'll get it totally clean without complete system disassembly. Personally, I'd run it for a couple thousand miles then re-flush. It's easy enough to do for relatively low cost.
One thing I do extra is remove the reservoir and clean it out real well before filling with new fluid.
I don't know if you have it but here is the service manual procedure:
Not sure you'll get it totally clean without complete system disassembly. Personally, I'd run it for a couple thousand miles then re-flush. It's easy enough to do for relatively low cost.
One thing I do extra is remove the reservoir and clean it out real well before filling with new fluid.
I don't know if you have it but here is the service manual procedure:
Last edited by Iggy; 06-28-2018 at 05:47 AM.
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Skeet33 (06-29-2018)
#3
Burning Brakes
I agree with Iggy. I would wait a couple thousand miles, to allow the new fluid to absorb as much of the remaining junk, as possible. So far as, ( " I've seen threads on power steering pump failures occurring a week or two after a flush;" ), IMO, pump failures, on non maintained cars, are more likely, the result of IMPROPER fluid change procedures, than introducing the new fluid itself! If, after instaling new fluid to the system, the pump happens to fail, IT was probably, nearing the end of IT'S life cycle, anyway!
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Skeet33 (06-29-2018)
#4
Drifting
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I made the same mistake on my wife's 2009 Pilot. It wasn't coffee colored but it wasn't far off. Being lazy, all I've done is sucked the fluid out of the reservoir and replaced it about 5X, waiting about a week in between each time. I had about 12 bottles of Honda PS fluid laying around that I purchased when I had my '06 TL so I didn't exactly have a shortage. It's looking pretty good now. With the system capacity vs. that of the reservoir, I'd say I've essentially replaced about 85% of the fluid.
Not that I recommend that way, since it's kind of wasteful. But I really wasn't interested in taking the lines off and making a mess. I did that with some of my past Honda's with success but didn't feel like it this time around
Not that I recommend that way, since it's kind of wasteful. But I really wasn't interested in taking the lines off and making a mess. I did that with some of my past Honda's with success but didn't feel like it this time around
![ugh](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/ugh.gif)
#5
Three Wheelin'
I don't find it messy at all. Raise the reservoir up as high as you can(after emptying it with a baster) with a wad of paper towels underneath and disconnect the return line. Once the extension tube is connected to the return line I feed it into an empty washer fluid jug. A word of advice, secure the extension tube in the container with some tape. Ask me how I know......haha
#6
Thanks to all for the input. As suggested, I'm going to wait a couple thousand miles and then flush with fresh fluid again. Feeling smooth so far and no issues or noises from the PS pump at all.
I did figure out an easy way to neatly connect clear tubing for fluid draining / filling when you don't have exactly the right size tubing, so it doesn't QUITE fit tight. Cut a finger off a latex glove and wrap it around the smaller hose several times, tightly. Hold it tight as you jam the tubing into the larger hose you're draining from. Drip-tight fit that you toss in the trash afterwards!
I did figure out an easy way to neatly connect clear tubing for fluid draining / filling when you don't have exactly the right size tubing, so it doesn't QUITE fit tight. Cut a finger off a latex glove and wrap it around the smaller hose several times, tightly. Hold it tight as you jam the tubing into the larger hose you're draining from. Drip-tight fit that you toss in the trash afterwards!
#7
O'Reilly's has Honda Specific power steering fluid for $8-9 quart.
Have used it after flushing old dark fluids from an 02 TL [210,000] and an 04 TL [190,000]
Remove upper hose from Pwr Str Pump - and elevate . Allows Pump to drain out through bottom hose into reservoir.
A "mighty-vac" tool works great for removing fluid from reservoir.
Also good - but slower - is an old hand lotion pump squirter
Then remove reservoir - dump any small amount of remaining fluid
- make a giant Q-Tip by strategically bundling/wrapping half a paper towel around the end of an oversize screwdriver
- masking tape the upper end of paper towel/Q-Tip to the screwdriver shaft [so it stays in place]
- swab out the bottom of reservoir , soak up any remains
I go an extra mile or two by having the car jacked up on stands - and disconnecting the lines underneath by radiator.
- leave upper Pwr Str Pump hose disconnected and elevated
- use some extra lengths of oversize hoses to divert lower hoses into drain pan
- then move passenger side wheel left-to-right from lock-to-lock slowly , repeated times , to remove vast majority of fluid from system
- you will get projectile fluid from both lower hoses initially - from one as turning right - the other turning left - initially.
- one will taper off before the other
YOU WILL INTRODUCE LOTS OF AIR INTO THE SYSTEM - it is normal - and will self purge in short order after running a minute or so.
You will have to replinish fluid in the reservoir a couple times within first couple of minutes of running.
Run engine about 15 seconds - cut off engine - replinish fluid - Repeat
FWIW - the Pwr Str system holds about 35 oz.
The reservoir is only about 12oz = about 1/3 of total fluid
The majority is in the lines and the rack&pinion
You only have to do it once if you go the full monty , and have crystal clean clear fluid in system as end result.
Have used it after flushing old dark fluids from an 02 TL [210,000] and an 04 TL [190,000]
Remove upper hose from Pwr Str Pump - and elevate . Allows Pump to drain out through bottom hose into reservoir.
A "mighty-vac" tool works great for removing fluid from reservoir.
Also good - but slower - is an old hand lotion pump squirter
Then remove reservoir - dump any small amount of remaining fluid
- make a giant Q-Tip by strategically bundling/wrapping half a paper towel around the end of an oversize screwdriver
- masking tape the upper end of paper towel/Q-Tip to the screwdriver shaft [so it stays in place]
- swab out the bottom of reservoir , soak up any remains
I go an extra mile or two by having the car jacked up on stands - and disconnecting the lines underneath by radiator.
- leave upper Pwr Str Pump hose disconnected and elevated
- use some extra lengths of oversize hoses to divert lower hoses into drain pan
- then move passenger side wheel left-to-right from lock-to-lock slowly , repeated times , to remove vast majority of fluid from system
- you will get projectile fluid from both lower hoses initially - from one as turning right - the other turning left - initially.
- one will taper off before the other
YOU WILL INTRODUCE LOTS OF AIR INTO THE SYSTEM - it is normal - and will self purge in short order after running a minute or so.
You will have to replinish fluid in the reservoir a couple times within first couple of minutes of running.
Run engine about 15 seconds - cut off engine - replinish fluid - Repeat
FWIW - the Pwr Str system holds about 35 oz.
The reservoir is only about 12oz = about 1/3 of total fluid
The majority is in the lines and the rack&pinion
You only have to do it once if you go the full monty , and have crystal clean clear fluid in system as end result.
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