1999 tl tranny
#41
Drifting
Just to be sure you did clean the three small pipe screens in the Control Solenoid valve A/B assy? If not check them.
What is ttc?
#42
Drifting
From the info you’re providing this is what I would do. I'm going to list some items, if they've been done then disregard that item.
1. Change the 2nd and 3rd Clutch Pressure Switch.
2. Check Shift Lock-Up Control Solenoid Valve/Shift Control Solenoid Valve A Assy. I’m calling this defective lol.
3. Change the external trans filter.
4. Check all trans grounds on both ends.
5. Check electrical connections.
6. Adjust shift cable. May cause delayed shift.
7. Change external Trans Filter.
8. Check Shift Control solenoid Valve B and C (ohms/activation/obstruction).
Make sure the gasket on Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A/B Assy is good. (Recently replaced)
Last edited by 01acls; 05-03-2015 at 03:04 AM.
#45
Pro
That is very interesting. It seems you had the exact problem I had with mine a few years ago. I also had the D4 light and it was P1753 bad lockup solenoid. I diagnosed everything to be good and still had the light come back when I turned the key to ignition. Guess what it was? The ecu pin for the lockup solenoid at the ecu connector had stopped making connection! I took the connector off and changed the angle of the pin and it fixed it! Took 5 mins to fix and I spent like 15+ hours diagnosing the code in total.
Back to your issue, I agree with 01acls you need to do a drain and fill first if you have not yet. Then check all of the screens if you have not. New pressure switches are the cheapest part on the trans to replace. I get mine at Amazon for 27 each. You need two.
Back to your issue, I agree with 01acls you need to do a drain and fill first if you have not yet. Then check all of the screens if you have not. New pressure switches are the cheapest part on the trans to replace. I get mine at Amazon for 27 each. You need two.
#46
Drifting
Trans control theory.
The PCM controls both shift solenoids (A/Lock-up, B, & C) and pressure switches (A/B, 2, & 3) electronically.
Shift solenoids control the passages to the gear clutch.
Pressure switches provide the pressure/volume to engage the gear clutch.
Thats how the tranny works.
I.e. PCM activates solenoids A, B, & C (to shift from 1st gear to 2nd gear).
The Solenoids A, B, & C opens the corresponding passages.
At the same time it also activates the corresponding Pressure Switches to engage the 2nd gear and disengage 1st gear. Shifting to 2nd gear.
Last edited by 01acls; 05-03-2015 at 04:56 PM.
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firsttimebuyer (05-04-2015)
#47
great replies. thanks
im going to replace the two pressure switches, then if that doesnt work shift solenoid b and c..
i have done the 3x d&f
there is no external filter on this trans from what i've read and seen
i will post back with results
im going to replace the two pressure switches, then if that doesnt work shift solenoid b and c..
i have done the 3x d&f
there is no external filter on this trans from what i've read and seen
i will post back with results
#50
Drifting
#51
yes I did
Sorry I responded yesterday but apparently I didn't actually post it...
Unfortunately I didn't have time to replace each item 1 at a time so I did them all.. the Trans definitely is much better.. normal shift into second. And more importantly, the tcc isn't constantly engaging and disengaging. I attribute the latter to the pressure sensor.. I paid 152 from Acura for the two pressure sensors and 2 solenoids.. 2 weeks ago I paid 250 for the dual linear solenoid.. and before I bought it the tcc/shift solenoid a had been replaced... so the Trans is all new electronically aside from the speed sensors.. and it feels great
Unfortunately I didn't have time to replace each item 1 at a time so I did them all.. the Trans definitely is much better.. normal shift into second. And more importantly, the tcc isn't constantly engaging and disengaging. I attribute the latter to the pressure sensor.. I paid 152 from Acura for the two pressure sensors and 2 solenoids.. 2 weeks ago I paid 250 for the dual linear solenoid.. and before I bought it the tcc/shift solenoid a had been replaced... so the Trans is all new electronically aside from the speed sensors.. and it feels great
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01acls (05-24-2015)
#53
So I removed. The linear soloniod and tested the resistance both side were reading 5.8 also hooked up to battery hesd a clicking noise which I was told is good but I couldnt see the plungers moving dont know if I tested wrong
#55
Drifting
I think the ohm reading should be OK. The testing is done terminal to terminal.
As for the valves, what you're looking for is a quick snappy movement of the valves. Either it's fast or not, no binding or lazy movement. Anything less than fast is defective.
You should dry off the solenoid so you can see the movement through the passages.
Last edited by 01acls; 05-10-2015 at 12:42 AM.
#56
Drifting
The lock up solenoid resistance test is a 2 part test. The #1 terminal side is the shift solenoid A and the #2 terminal side is the lock up side. They're tested by checking resistance between #1 terminal and the body of the solenoid and the #2 terminal is also tested against the solenoid body. Do not test the resistance between terminal #1 and #2. The reading should by 12-25 ohms. If it's out of spec then it's defective and should be replace.
#58
Drifting
#61
Drifting
Try the following (disregard any you’ve addressed).
1. Check for good trans grounds, both sides.
2. 3x3 trans dump and fill. Trans fluid should be relatively clean.
3. Check for loose shift cable.
4. Replace Shift Control Solenoid C defective.
5. Replace 2nd Gear Pressure Switch defective.
6. Inspect A/B pressure solenoid – Check for movement on both Control A/B valve for quick movement, defective if stuck or slow movement-replace unit/ check the three pipe screens for obstruction-screens at the bottom/check O rings and pipes for damage.
7. Check for clog screen on Lock up solenoid.
As a last resort replace Shift Solenoid A/Lock Up assy and Pressure Switch A/B Solenoid assy.
#62
Drifting
I recommend OEM parts only. After market parts are hit and miss unless you know they're OE or brand name, or a company you already trust. You really can't go wrong with OEM.
#64
Drifting
Go to any Acura dealer web site parts dept and plug in your car and search for the parts you are looking for. Once you find the right part the part numbers will be listed.
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Pham Alvan
2G TL (1999-2003)
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