120K Service Completed

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Old 02-10-2008, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Southern
Good job taking an some real pain in the butt jobs, most of us would take it to the shop.

As technical as these cars are- I say adjusting the valves was a GOOD use of time, there is within spec- and there is perfect!
Every little bit helps when it comes to performance or mileage!
A 200+++ hp sewing machine......... yes!

What is considered perfect? I am planning on doing my timing belt and valve adjustments. I see the manual gives a range for within spec for the intake and exhaust valves. What did you set them to and why? Did you go half way between the two values?

What mm is the nut that you adjust? Is it 7 or 10mm I saw a tool online in both sizes,

Did you buy another timing belt tensioner it looks like one in your first pic with the 50 mm tool for the crankshaft. Is that what the other part is?
Old 02-10-2008, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by NighthawkBlack
What is considered perfect? I am planning on doing my timing belt and valve adjustments. I see the manual gives a range for within spec for the intake and exhaust valves. What did you set them to and why? Did you go half way between the two values?

What mm is the nut that you adjust? Is it 7 or 10mm I saw a tool online in both sizes,

Did you buy another timing belt tensioner it looks like one in your first pic with the 50 mm tool for the crankshaft. Is that what the other part is?
I adjusted my valves to the lower number in the range thinking that they will open up after time. I don't recall the size of the mm wrench I used, there is no special tool needed to adjust the valves just a metric wrench to loosen the nut and a screwdriver to adjust the clearance. I only needed to adjust several of the valves since the rest were within spec.

I replaced my timing belt tensioner along with the water pump and belts, yes that part is the tensioner.
Old 02-17-2008, 01:35 AM
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I am doing this tomorrow and was wondering i you reused the head gaskets? I didnnt see anything in my book on replacing those.

Did you go to the lower number when adjusting for both intake and exhaust?


Do you adjust before you put the new belt on or after?

When you say not moving the cam gears you mean when the belt is off right? Otherwise they move in unison right? Any advice on the whole process? I tried getting someone to do it but since I have the blower, no one wanted to. I know how to take everything off but never did the timing belt part. I changed my side and front mount recently but do you remove the side mount bracket(silver) on the engine? Do you have to remove the mount too? or just detach from bracket?
Old 02-17-2008, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by NighthawkBlack
I am doing this tomorrow and was wondering i you reused the head gaskets? I didnnt see anything in my book on replacing those.

Did you go to the lower number when adjusting for both intake and exhaust?


Do you adjust before you put the new belt on or after?

When you say not moving the cam gears you mean when the belt is off right? Otherwise they move in unison right? Any advice on the whole process? I tried getting someone to do it but since I have the blower, no one wanted to. I know how to take everything off but never did the timing belt part. I changed my side and front mount recently but do you remove the side mount bracket(silver) on the engine? Do you have to remove the mount too? or just detach from bracket?
I reused the headgasket since it is metal.

Yes I went with the lower number when adjusting the valve clearances and did the adjustment after the new belt was on but that doesn't matter as long as you have a timing belt on.

Yes do not move the cam gears when the belt is off since all the gears must turn together. Pick up the factory service manual for guidance on the whole process, it will pay for itself with a timing belt replacement.

You only need to separate the side engine mount from the bracket to slide the new belt on, no need to completely remove it.
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Old 02-17-2008, 05:59 PM
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Thanks since I changed my front and side mount a few months ago, should I just take the metal bracket on the engine off and leave the side mount screwed in or lossen it?

I am also going to change the two other pulleys in there besides the water pump and auto tensioner fr tbelt. Since I have the blower it makes more work so I dont want to go back in for another 100k. I just finished changing my ps fluid and thermostat and fan switch to Mugen parts. My engine would over heat at idle if I sat in stop and go for 10-15 min. So I changed those two things and am changing the waterpump, hoping to solve it.


When you adjust the valves, are you saying I should change all the pulleys first then put the new belt on then use the tool to adjust each valve? I have the helm and the inspire service manual but I always get worried on jobs like this. Any time I let the dealer touch my car they broke something so I do most things my self.
Old 02-18-2008, 02:18 AM
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Part of the procedure for changing the timing belt requires removal of the side engine mounting bracket as indicated in the factory manual. I find that if it is in your way remove it, you can always put it back.

When you adjust the valves it doesn't matter if you have the old belt and pulleys on or the new belt and pulleys on as long as the belts and pulleys are intact. In my write-up I did the valve adjustment last so I had the new belt on.
Old 02-24-2008, 01:09 PM
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OK , I am still working on it so hard to finish since no clearance. My gasket for head is rubber ordered from acura auto motive parts . org weird, what year is your car mine is 2000. I will do it after the new belt is on then. Thanks
Old 02-24-2008, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by NighthawkBlack
OK , I am still working on it so hard to finish since no clearance. My gasket for head is rubber ordered from acura auto motive parts . org weird, what year is your car mine is 2000. I will do it after the new belt is on then. Thanks
We are both referring to the intake manifold gasket not the head gasket.

My Acura is a 2001 TL-P. At least my upper intake manifold gasket is metal, I don't recall what the lower gasket is.
Old 02-24-2008, 02:12 PM
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When were the heads pulled off?
Old 02-24-2008, 07:25 PM
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i have 114 miles on my 99 tl i was wondering should i do the tune up now or wait until 120 k my car is running pretty good now,any suggestions
Old 02-24-2008, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by JAYMATEOTL
i have 114 miles on my 99 tl i was wondering should i do the tune up now or wait until 120 k my car is running pretty good now,any suggestions
The factory recommends 105K miles or 7 years which ever comes first for the timing belt/water pump replacement. Since you exceeded both you shouldn't wait.
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Old 02-24-2008, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Southern
I adjusted my valves to the lower number in the range thinking that they will open up after time. I don't recall the size of the mm wrench I used, there is no special tool needed to adjust the valves just a metric wrench to loosen the nut and a screwdriver to adjust the clearance. I only needed to adjust several of the valves since the rest were within spec.

I replaced my timing belt tensioner along with the water pump and belts, yes that part is the tensioner.
Valve adjustment recommendation from Acura:
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/TS/BTS050802.PDF
Old 02-24-2008, 10:55 PM
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thanks for posting that. I am using a power built tool that has a hex #ten and a screwdriver inside it, Its extremly annoying to do this service. Its taking me a few hours on sat and sunday for the second week and still not done. Blower added to my labor but even without it, its tedious. There is no way you can be sure that the dealer does all the steps the book says. I highly doubt it and there are so many wires and hoses in the way and a ton of bolts. Im not doing it to save the money, since I had to buy a bunch of tools and parts, Im doing it so I know its done and I wont have to go back in for 100k more.
Old 02-26-2008, 06:55 AM
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SOUTHERN,
GREAT RIGHT UP, WE NEED MORE PEOPLE LIKE U ON THIS BOARD. DO U REMEMBER WHAT WAS THE PART # FOR THE TIMING BELT TENSIONER. 02 TLS. THANKS
Old 02-26-2008, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Antonio7
SOUTHERN,
GREAT RIGHT UP, WE NEED MORE PEOPLE LIKE U ON THIS BOARD. DO U REMEMBER WHAT WAS THE PART # FOR THE TIMING BELT TENSIONER. 02 TLS. THANKS
14520-P8E-A01 ADJUSTER, AUTOMATIC

found here.

http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...catdisplay.jsp
Old 02-27-2008, 12:20 AM
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Thanks Southern,
Old 03-03-2008, 05:59 PM
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got this done today, took bout 4-5 hours, now she purrrrrs like a kitten

but gotta get the lower front bjs replaced tommorrow, other than that, my tl is set for another 4 years.


edit: btw we didnt use the special crank pulley tool, heated the bolt up, air gunned it out and the pulley came out no probs...
Old 03-03-2008, 06:18 PM
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i replaced everything except changing the rear engine mount...knowing it's a b*tch, im afraid of touching it.
Old 03-04-2008, 05:30 PM
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https://acurazine.com/forums/members/southern-123508/
Old 03-06-2008, 10:59 AM
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What reference/tech/manual are you referring to as a "must have".........I just assembled all the parts for this project, but want to make sure I have the right guide.

Thanks
Old 03-08-2008, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Southern
Front engine mount is easy. Take the weight off the front mount. There are 4 bolts that hold the mount to the cross frame, 3 bolts that hold the bracket to the engine and 1 nut on the top and a vacuum hose on the bottom. After removing the bolts and nut you may need to raise the engine up a little more to pull the old mount out.

I never replaced my rear mount so I can't comment but it does appear to take longer due to being less accessible then the front mount.
Here is the TSB on the front engine mount....with details on removal and installation:

http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/B06-014.PDF
Old 03-09-2008, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by pnthr30
What reference/tech/manual are you referring to as a "must have".........I just assembled all the parts for this project, but want to make sure I have the right guide.

Thanks
I have the Acura factory service manual. I don't like third party service manuals. Looking at the TSB's if you have access to them they are more informative then the factory service manual.
Old 03-09-2008, 08:51 PM
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Here is a link where I purchased my manual from:
http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2...5NAJ0C4LF02DU7
Old 09-20-2008, 03:16 AM
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I am planning to do the timing belt & water pump soon on my 112K '02 TL. Problem is I don't have any tools except for your basic screw driver. So what tools do I need at minimum? I do have a floor jack & 2 stands if those count as tools.

This will be the first service I am doing on the car myself (haven't even done the oil change yet but looks simple enough). I know some of you will say just take it to a mechanic...but I don't have $800. I live in an apartment & park on the city streets; I will be going to my parents' house since they have a garage...so I need to make sure I have everything I need because they live 30 miles away & don't have an AutoZone every other mile like here in the city. And if I screw something up, my car will just stay in the garage as opposed to sitting on the street.

Any help is appreciated.
Old 09-20-2008, 08:38 AM
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Metric sockets, both 1/2" and 3/8 drive. the crank pulley tool, torque wrench.
Old 09-20-2008, 11:32 AM
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Thanks.
Old 10-08-2008, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by newperson
I am planning to do the timing belt & water pump soon on my 112K '02 TL. Problem is I don't have any tools except for your basic screw driver. So what tools do I need at minimum? I do have a floor jack & 2 stands if those count as tools.

This will be the first service I am doing on the car myself (haven't even done the oil change yet but looks simple enough). I know some of you will say just take it to a mechanic...but I don't have $800. I live in an apartment & park on the city streets; I will be going to my parents' house since they have a garage...so I need to make sure I have everything I need because they live 30 miles away & don't have an AutoZone every other mile like here in the city. And if I screw something up, my car will just stay in the garage as opposed to sitting on the street.

Any help is appreciated.
I'm not trying to be a smartass but do think you're better off taking it to a mechanic unless you've bloodied your knuckles on other projects and are comfortable doing so. Oil changes/plugs/filters are things you can damn near do just by looking at the situation and not need instructions.

This is not an oil change. I have the Acura service manual and am in the planning stages of this and still have about 10K miles before I *have* to do it based on the manufacturer's suggestions. I also have a well equipped shop minus the few special tools I'd need to get.

The only problem I see with Southern's write up is he made it look too easy. It's obvious that he is very mechanically inclined and had both the tools and foresight to properly plan out this project. I wish he had taken pictures of his hands afterwards to show what you can expect! I've had to get stitches from some of my escapades. Lucky for me I have his post bookmarked so shouldn't get as many as I originally expected to.

I don't wish to deter you nor detract from this post. I also know that I've never started a project that went as smoothly as expected.

Put another way, this is NOT a project you want to F up. You start pulling things apart and get lost in the process, you'll pay double to have it towed to a mechanic who has to go behind you and figure out where you got lost and try to salvage the situation.

Best of luck!
Old 10-09-2008, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by bozzchem
I'm not trying to be a smartass but do think you're better off taking it to a mechanic unless you've bloodied your knuckles on other projects and are comfortable doing so. Oil changes/plugs/filters are things you can damn near do just by looking at the situation and not need instructions.

This is not an oil change. I have the Acura service manual and am in the planning stages of this and still have about 10K miles before I *have* to do it based on the manufacturer's suggestions. I also have a well equipped shop minus the few special tools I'd need to get.

The only problem I see with Southern's write up is he made it look too easy. It's obvious that he is very mechanically inclined and had both the tools and foresight to properly plan out this project. I wish he had taken pictures of his hands afterwards to show what you can expect! I've had to get stitches from some of my escapades. Lucky for me I have his post bookmarked so shouldn't get as many as I originally expected to.

I don't wish to deter you nor detract from this post. I also know that I've never started a project that went as smoothly as expected.

Put another way, this is NOT a project you want to F up. You start pulling things apart and get lost in the process, you'll pay double to have it towed to a mechanic who has to go behind you and figure out where you got lost and try to salvage the situation.

Best of luck!
As long as your not afraid to try its not hard, wont bloody your knuckles (unles something breaks or slips, which does happen to experts). You dont have to be an expert wrench turner to tackle projects. You just have to have the patience and the want to do it. Same goes for any project. These motors are very easy to work on. I just adjusted the valves in under 2 hrs (including changing the oil and watching tv as i went along)

Also there is a little thing called gloves. They really do work well and are worth it.




Or for those that want open finger



Every DIY'er should have a set, they come in many colors!
http://garage.mechanix.com/SearchRes...x?CategoryID=2
Old 10-09-2008, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
As long as your not afraid to try its not hard, wont bloody your knuckles (unles something breaks or slips, which does happen to experts). You dont have to be an expert wrench turner to tackle projects. You just have to have the patience and the want to do it. Same goes for any project. These motors are very easy to work on. I just adjusted the valves in under 2 hrs (including changing the oil and watching tv as i went along)
Patience and want are important but aren't nearly as important as are having the proper tools and a good working environment. I wouldn't suggest changing a timing belt be your first attempt at wrenching on your car unless you've got someone to help you that is a bit more experienced.
Old 10-09-2008, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by bozzchem
Patience and want are important but aren't nearly as important as are having the proper tools and a good working environment. I wouldn't suggest changing a timing belt be your first attempt at wrenching on your car unless you've got someone to help you that is a bit more experienced.
While it may be daunting to some, it really is no harder than changing plugs, or swapping springs which are often many peoples first real DIY's The hardest part is the crank pulley. If you plan ahead and get teh crank pulley tool on line for 20 some bucks it makes the job real easy. Other than that nothing more than simple metric sockets/wrenches are needed.
My friends and i have changed clutches/starters/halfshafts/bearings on cars before, all in the dead of winter outside laying on snow covered driveways/parking lots. There is no reason one couldnt do a timing belt swap in a driveway on a decent day. Coming up with reasons not to are just a cop out for being scared.
Old 10-09-2008, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Coming up with reasons not to are just a cop out for being scared.
I don't have a dog in the fight.

Fear or apprehension is nothing to be ashamed of. It can keep you out of a hell of a lot of trouble. There's a reason you don't stick your hand in a hornet's nest.

newperson, please keep us informed of how it went. As I said before, best of luck to you.
Old 10-09-2008, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by bozzchem
I don't have a dog in the fight.

Fear or apprehension is nothing to be ashamed of. It can keep you out of a hell of a lot of trouble. There's a reason you don't stick your hand in a hornet's nest.

newperson, please keep us informed of how it went. As I said before, best of luck to you.
But to play devils advocate, you must have a bunch of money to waste thinking its a mechanic only job without having trying. Its like the words removing trans or removing engine. Very scary to most but in all honesty its not. Tools needed can be rented or bought cheap, and the project is no harder than any other. Just larger.

Ive done this project. I dont have a degree or a plaque saying im a trained mechanic. Im just not scared. Something i try to push on to others. Dont be afraid to try or fail. If you have or come across issues others are here to help.
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