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This is awesome work and an awesome thread! And I thought I was doing something by just cleaning up and fixing things on my 2000 TL. Somewhere there’s a neglected old muscle car, sitting in a garage rusting away, jealous of the attention your car is getting.
Someone already asked why have I done the little work I’ve done on my car, especially with it being 20 years old. I tell them, “because I CAN!” Winter has finally hit here so no more unnecessary work until spring but you’ve given me inspiration to maybe keep the car and do some real stuff on it this spring.
Again, great job and I’ll be following this thread even if I move on to another car.
This is awesome work and an awesome thread! And I thought I was doing something by just cleaning up and fixing things on my 2000 TL. Somewhere there’s a neglected old muscle car, sitting in a garage rusting away, jealous of the attention your car is getting.
Someone already asked why have I done the little work I’ve done on my car, especially with it being 20 years old. I tell them, “because I CAN!” Winter has finally hit here so no more unnecessary work until spring but you’ve given me inspiration to maybe keep the car and do some real stuff on it this spring.
Again, great job and I’ll be following this thread even if I move on to another car.
Thanks, much appreciated 🤙
Ive always loved these 2g tls, glad i found one for cheap in good shape. All my parts from my 6thgenaccord were a direct swap, so it was a no brainer. Its been along time, but its almost ready to hit the road finally
Well its been awhile since I've posted any updates. Ive been pretty busy with 2 american bully puppies for the past few months, and also working on the TL whenever possible. Be prepared for a photo dump 🤙
Removed and sold my recent retrofits Old headlights off the car and sold After replacing the burnt harness i decided to change the blower. Blower was having an intermittent on/off issue. The issue New retrofits, oem lexus rx350s tuned with sti-r clear lenses Retrofits done 😎 Retrofits installed 😎
A/C compressor is shot, sounds like a handful of 10mm sockets flying around in the dryer. New denso condenser installed Compressor removed What a difference, old leaking from the middle half. A/C box removed Evaporator Changed Replaced everything. Old condenser has seen better days New Denso compressor installed Had to order a new dryer to condenser hardline, old one was broken in the old condenser. New line installed. Finished, just need to add pag oil and refrigerant.
horrible aftermarket alarm install....REMOVED All the hacked up crap is gone now Had a spare ignition switch harness FINALLY found a PSpec shifter and ditched the JTC PSpec installed Finished Installed the console heated seat switch blockoff plate
almost done uploading Safelite to the rescue. old windshield out powdercoated wiper arms new wiper blades and powdercoated wiper arms installed Replacing parking brake shoes and rotors new shoes and hardware on new rotors w. parking brake shoes and hardware
finished for now. wheels got a 3 stage powdercoat had to buy new tires since some shop i wont be going to anymore destroyed my good tires. wheels mounted and looking good back on the ground for now found another legit rare mugen spoiler thanks to a member on here 🍻 needs some tlc
@UA5_6MT ....your car looks great. FL absolutely requires A/C, and will continue to accelerate your dashboard deformation around the defrost vents....Over here in SoCal, my dashboard received the same treatment.
You replaced your windshield yourself? Mind sharing the supplier? If it's not stamped Aptech, can you provide the manufacturer? Apologize if you posted this info....
Trying to get my 2003 TL-S to a similar condition as yours. If you scroll down to post #9 (select hyperlink), you'll see my vehicle has a long way to go....
@UA5_6MT ....your car looks great. FL absolutely requires A/C, and will continue to accelerate your dashboard deformation around the defrost vents....Over here in SoCal, my dashboard received the same treatment.
You replaced your windshield yourself? Mind sharing the supplier? If it's not stamped Aptech, can you provide the manufacturer? Apologize if you posted this info....
Trying to get my 2003 TL-S to a similar condition as yours. If you scroll down to post #9 (select hyperlink), you'll see my vehicle has a long way to go....
Thanks!
@M_Bimmer yeah i just moved, the car was originally in NJ for years. I keep it in the garage, ill end up finding a clean dash later on.
As for the windshield id have to look, whatever safelite put in. Seems good so far, cant really complain. And the link doesnt work.
LOL...
really want to blow your mind...go swimming in the springs...best water to swim in. At least to me.
Ginnie, Ichetuknee or Rainbow...Awesome shit and refreshing.
LOL...
really want to blow your mind...go swimming in the springs...best water to swim in. At least to me.
Ginnie, Ichetuknee or Rainbow...Awesome shit and refreshing.
ive heard about the springs, ill have to look into it. 🤙
New to the zine my first post I have a 2002 TL just acquired all the parts from a salvage yard and would like to know if you could post diagrams for the e connector, thanks.
New to the zine my first post I have a 2002 TL just acquired all the parts from a salvage yard and would like to know if you could post diagrams for the e connector, thanks.
I'd have to look, and see if i still have them. Im running the auto ecu, until i can get AEM
you know what, i'll share all my pictures here because really i think you deserve credit for doing this swap with proper documentation.
it's better to have everything together. i am too lazy to make a thread.
something is up with my speedometer, getting code p0720. this shouldn't happen and i even got a good condition engine harness to replace my previous (patched up) one.
i have another counterhsaft speed sensor ready to swap, and also one from the 04-08 TLs (also in the manual 06-11 civics)
but i already feel the hate within my city because this swap isn't as easy as fsttyms1 made it sound and now a very large cult is upset.
do you get about 100 km/h in 6th gear at around 2.5k rpm? seems a tad high, and i'm thinking this is where not having any VSS output can make a difference. really it's not a big deal though.
i think important observations for people looking at fsttyms1's post is:
you don't need the dampers unless you have the CL 6MT subframe. if you don't have that don't bother with these.
i highly recommend you find the 6MT water passage since there is no longer a cooling inlet on the transmission
i also recommend you get the (now discontinued, but available) heater core hoses from the firewall (blower) to the engine since they are a different shape than the 5AT.
EVEN THOUGH MY ABS SWAP IS SUCCESSFUL, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DO IT WITHOUT SIGNIFICANT ELECTRONIC EXPERTISE.
one of these days i'll make a video with my code reader showing the wheel speed sensor readings (after i select the manual option) to prove that i have it working.
my final parts list was something like:
-engine harness
-transmission
-water passage
-abs control module
-cam pulley and associated backing plate with the sensors
-crank pulley
-clutch pedal (along with old parking brake pedal)
-CL 6MT subframe plus front and back dampers
-CL 6MT engine mounting brackets
-CL 6MT full clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder assembly
-CL 6MT brake pedal
here are the pictures. i decided to keep the AT cluster because the CL's "white bezel" that houses the entire gauge PCB is different,
you end up seeing a line through some of the lights at the bottom of the tach because they have slightly different moldings
and, as you all can see, i've got the parking brake tapped into the A/T parking circuit so my driver seat position memory works just like it should.
this took me 6 weeks and i had help from two professional mechanics, who taught me how to lift an engine and also provided invaluable guidance when i didnt know how to tackle certain things.
pretty proud of the centre console having both the 6MT cupholders AND the TL rear vents.
this took quite a bit of work. people don't ever mention that you can't just pop off the cupholder portion of the CL 6MT and pop it in the TL 5AT.
you need to swap the entire black bezel inside the console. it's a lot of work.
lastly, i want to thank a guy named evan clarke from saskatchewan who originally just listed the transmission, but for a little more money he fetched me everything i needed (he called it my "wishlist" lol)
when the car he was stripping was scrapped, he even went to calgary to pull the subframe from a rare 6MT that miraculously up in Satan's Town (just when i needed it too), otherwise known as the Rothschild Capital of the World, Calgary.
i couldn't have done it without him, though i could have done without him cutting the engine harness before we made a deal water under the bridge anyways now that i got a mint harness and all of my stuff is unmolested.
also want to give a shout out to that (probably) 50 or 60 something boomer whose CL ended up in that saskatchewan scrapyard, probably against his wishes (i think it got hit).
smelled like a first owner vehicle with that cluster reading only 280k km.
don't worry most of your car will live on, boomer.
i'm out of things to say. goodbye
sincerely,
honda god
oh yeah, one more thing, whoever lives with zeta, straight up shaquille o'neal-reject that big bucket of popcorn he's gonna have while he looks at these pictures.
jk zeta
ook
bye unlike other guys, i highly recommend you use a rivet nut tool. i bought the astro 1452 and it was outstanding. this way, if you ever need to take your e-brake off, you're not worried about some ghetto nut underneath just showing the holes that were drilled the mess signifying the beginning of the "hard part. looking for trouble (aka the parking brake mount points) "FAFO" as those loser internet freedom fighters love to say don't know what i'm trying to sho where, but i don't care don't know what i'm trying to sho where, but i don't care part 2 ah i remmber now, yeah, no one talked about the freaking bolt/nut for the e-brake cable that's way deep under the carpet. removing this is annoying. in the words of diddy: "let's go" no match for the wahkee wahkee beat dat azz wahkee beat dat azz part 2. thing paid for itself one hundred times over during this entire build.
the finished/mounted e-brake after using rivet nuts the real innovative part, the world first ABS "J series" swap. see the extra VSA plug still hanging? nobody save maybe a few hundred people in the world would know how to do this the way i did. hide that plug. talk about a culmination of literally three decades of computer experience. a shot of my wire work on the passenger side. added my windshield washer fluid wire since my engine harness had it already. also prepped the wheels for DRL by adding the necessary taps. just another angle here's the 6MT subframe after being powdercoated and before everything gets put on it. i could never look at the 5AT subframe the same way again. some more angles because i think this subframe is good looking whatever, i do what i want whatever, i do what i want, part 2. ah yes the boomer's transmission. my trusty engine that has stuck with me for over 20 years. in spite of the crazy abuse it took when my throttle cable would jam and i'd be brake at intersections with 3k rpm "idle" this part is all 6MT_UA5's innovation. this is like my "cover" i followed the weld and cut it out. s'aight s'aiiiiight i should have taken another picture after this, but i was sort of embarrassed. i recommend people cut that indent of the bracket so that they can slide a bolt and nut along it. i did that, but it didn't look the best. however it's functional and super valuable when you're mounting the pedal to the firewall thanks to my mate darren tovey in the motherland for these brass spacers. made my installation as stock as it could be this is what your driver's side kick panel wiring should look like after you're done. that's if you do it right. a little cleaner here, but it's way cleaner now. i just didn't take a picture of that. running and cleaning the cables on the passenger side running and cleaning the cables on the passenger side part 2 got that cardone 3.13 accord v6 steering rack for better radius. per fireball's suggestion i sprayed it down to get rid of the carbon. wurth brake cleaner yo. shit's tight. she's ready to go regulators, mount up regulators, mount up part 2 regulators, mount up part 3 regulators, mount up part 4
the rest is boring, but it all looks stock under the hood now.
here's my "duluth shot" aka crustyneon (in his fucking pyjamas [cmon mate, at least turn the engine so we know you did it. it's like getting the tip in and saying it's time for bed. seriously]) hon da go d
forgot to thank thefireball and zeta as well, for all of the information they've given over messaging before i posted this stuff.
and oh yeah, i still have to install this...
redlinegoods, an established/known vendor in this segment, needed a second crack at this to make it. lol. every orange diamond is individually stitched, just as the Lord (not God, but close hahaha) would expect.
if you don't know what this is (i know, it's a shift boot, but WHAT is on it?), then i really can't help you. go read some books or drop some acid and look at colours or something, it might come to you... maybe.
p.s. there is no such thing as "irish-american" or "scottish-american" after 1776.
that's like saying "british indian"; there is no such thing. nor would either side want it to be (from my perspective, which is one of of a disinterested observer)
Last edited by broly; Sep 5, 2023 at 07:06 PM.
Reason: just stating it took redlinegoods two cracks to get it right, but hey they got it right.
the rest is boring, but it all looks stock under the hood now.
here's my "duluth shot" aka crustyneon (in his fucking pyjamas [cmon mate, at least turn the engine so we know you did it. it's like getting the tip in and saying it's time for bed. seriously]) hon da go d
Talking all that sh!t and didn't even post my pic. Smh. Here y'all go, it's still kickin.
crustyneon, just curious, you have a working speedometer & can rev past 5,500rpm?
Yup. I've been daily driving it on and off ever since I got it running. I've only put on 30 some thousand miles on it since I tend to keep a fleet of vehicles. It's been just typical maintenance items even since.
turns out the transmission had the wrong mainshaft position sensor.
since both the mainshaft and camshaft position sensors are identical, save their length, the ECU couldn't notice any problems until you drove for a while.
everything is great now.
anyways, all that's left is the reverse lockout solenoid. i noticed that the relay box with the 5 pin does not have a contact for the fourth pin.
i love how duluth posts the same embarrassing picture, showing his "low IQ" by failing to demonstrate the vehicle light up like a christmas tree, but he wants a cookie for PUTTING SOME PANTS ON. WOW DULUTH.
e came on to talk shit without backing it up. nothing in his picture shows any improvement.
TURN THE KEY, LETS SEE HOW BAD OF A JOB YOU DID, DULUTH.
YOUr BEHAVIOUR EMBODIES BOTH DISREGARD AND DISRESPECT FOR HANDA TRADITION.
Then you got niggaz that just don't like me You know the those P.H.D. niggaz But you know I pop a lot of shit but I back it up though see it's a difference a lot of niggaz pop shit
But a lot of niggaz don't make hits But it's like this whole Bad Boy shit we come to bring it to why'all niggaz, me, B.I., Puff, Lox, whoever Black Rob
the CL cluster does not hide the ABS not working. you should read posts from 10 or so years ago where it is acknowledged there is no ABS or VSA.
so, if that's the case, why is the ABS light not on?
just because you use the CL cluster it does not mean that you miraculously have the VSA unit failing to report errors.
i just love how his response fails to answer the original, scathing criticism of not turning the key so we can see just how many lights he has.
what's more embarrassing is the number of wires this guy ran DIRECTLY from the sensors/origin (like the starter) ALL THE WAY to the cabin. if that isn't redneck, i don't know what is.