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Yeah, that's awesome...
funny, my 3.7 actually looks like that already.
I painted it a few years back, sent it to get sandblasted and someone acid stripped it instead. Had to open it up and clean everything then send it back to get sandblasted, my buddy felt bad and powdercoated it for me. Little set backs but it happens
it's getting there. Just ordered a new battery tray hold down for the trunk relocation. Also waiting on a drill bit so i can drill and tap the radiator plug for the oem radiator sensor that the 02-03 tls has.
Yeah dude, shifting priorities everywhere we look now.
Keep on keeping on though.
I can't seem to find the post, was it you saying you were looking for a lightweight crank pulley?
i was looking at them but right now i have to get other parts first. Definitely need a battery and few other things, will also need a new front windshield. So any goodies will have to be put on hold.
Okay, if I recall they are $200 normally?
I have one to sell if you're interested in a substantial discount.
04 TL to 06 steering wheel in good condition and also a pair of Ktuned
pper control arms that could use your stock inner bushings and $100
replacement balljoints off amazon I'd let
go for cheap as hell, as well.
We can take this to PM if you're so inclined. I just haven't bothered putting
together a black market thread yet.
J.
Okay, if I recall they are $200 normally?
I have one to sell if you're interested in a substantial discount.
04 TL to 06 steering wheel in good condition and also a pair of Ktuned
pper control arms that could use your stock inner bushings and $100
replacement balljoints off amazon I'd let
go for cheap as hell, as well.
We can take this to PM if you're so inclined. I just haven't bothered putting
together a black market thread yet.
J.
ill keep you in mind, but as for now im strapped for cash for anymore mods. Main forcus is to get this car running and driving. Almost there
Okay, if I recall they are $200 normally?
I have one to sell if you're interested in a substantial discount.
04 TL to 06 steering wheel in good condition and also a pair of Ktuned
pper control arms that could use your stock inner bushings and $100
replacement balljoints off amazon I'd let
go for cheap as hell, as well.
We can take this to PM if you're so inclined. I just haven't bothered putting
together a black market thread yet.
J.
Yours is for a 3G TL, correct?
He'd need the one for a 2G J32A2 or J35A3 that has the P/S incorporated pulley, IIRC'ly.
Finished running the clutch NSS wires and hand brake wire. Shimmed the metra dash kit, this one wasnt sitting flush. Still need to run and wire the aem watet temp and air/fuel gauges. Also tossed on the oem lipkit
they look legit enough to me...
and thank you, I miss those wheels.
id love to get a set of those. I might end up getting these powdercoated in Wet black gloss and rear calipers coated in green. Id like to do some fab up some evo rear brembo calipers.
Finished running the clutch NSS wires and hand brake wire.
That car is looking !
UA5_6MT, what size wire and types of connectors did you use for the handbrake switch?
Any insight on how you ran the wire would be helpful.
In addition, for those who may have a similar flat elongated switch hole to occupy, like the one shown above behind the parking brake handle, I found Honda p/n 77206-SV2-000ZA; #14 on the link below fits nice with a little modification.
UA5_6MT, what size wire and types of connectors did you use for the handbrake switch?
Any insight on how you ran the wire would be helpful.
In addition, for those who may have a similar flat elongated switch hole to occupy, like the one shown above behind the parking brake handle, I found Honda p/n 77206-SV2-000ZA; #14 on the link below fits nice with a little modification.
For the parking switch i just ran a wire from the handbrake switch down the tunnel and over to the original footbrake connector. Its 1 wire i think 18ga and used a male and female buttconnector
I eventually plan on doing the tablet mod, so i hacked up the factory dvd changer and temporarily mounted my amp. Ill mount the amp better once i hook up the wires for the amp and battery
What's the tablet mod you're talking about? If you're trying to put a touchscreen headunit in place of the Navi, I have a thread here with .stl files you can print to re-locate the non-navi temperature controls to the stock stereo location. That way you get full HVAC controls, and better placement for your stereo.
Great thinking with using the DVD changer to mount the amp by the way!
What's the tablet mod you're talking about? If you're trying to put a touchscreen headunit in place of the Navi, I have a thread here with .stl files you can print to re-locate the non-navi temperature controls to the stock stereo location. That way you get full HVAC controls, and better placement for your stereo.
Great thinking with using the DVD changer to mount the amp by the way!
Ditch the factory navi and put a 7in android tablet in it place. My pioneer double din is navi equipped
Ditch the factory navi and put a 7in android tablet in it place. My pioneer double din is navi equipped
Nice. Check out my thread here, I relocated the stock climate controls to where the original stereo location was, and I think it looks super slick. I've got .stl files there if you have access to a 3d printer.
Nice. Check out my thread here, I relocated the stock climate controls to where the original stereo location was, and I think it looks super slick. I've got .stl files there if you have access to a 3d printer.
i saw that recently, came out good. You should make one for use with 2 x 52mm gauges 👍
New vibrant flex pipe welded onto comptech jpipe, xlr8 high flow with some monkeyfab vbands. Jpipe 👉 highflow 👉 mufflers welded up. The rest will be another day Jpipe temporary bolted in, needs the hanger welded on From the looks of things, i doubt ill have any issues with clearance Mounting this clutch bracket was a huge pain motor is level, now need to fab up some mounts for the 6speed trans coming out decent. Getting there slowly
UA5_6MT, that's going to be some car when you finish!
I have questions for you.
I'm in the middle of the 'six speed parking brake mod' for my '03 Auto CL-S. I have the PB lever mounted and the agenda for tomorrow is to secure the two PB cables.
1) On the picture below it looks like you moved the two cables (circled in blue) over to the right from the original fastening location when it was an auto?
2) To gain a little more 'slack' in those brake cables, to enable connection at the equalizer (just above the blue circle) , did you 'adjust out' a little length by manipulating the PB at the rear brake drum? I'm finding them 'tight' and short in length to connect during test fitting.
Any insight you could provide would be helpful.
Thanks!
Zeta, the auto cables are different than the manual ones. Also, the manual cables mount to a bracket that is not found on the auto cars.
The manual cables are both longer, and have the same length. The auto cables are different, as one is short and the other is almost as long as the manual cables (forgot if shorter one is on right or left).
For years I ran the auto cables. I backed out the handbrake lever adjustment all the way, and it was still dragging the parking brake even without the lever pulled. I then backed out the adjuster on the rear drums which worked okay, but resulted in the handbrake barely stopping the car even at full pull. Eventually, I swapped out the cables for the manual ones, and it all fit and worked perfectly.
UA5_6MT, that's going to be some car when you finish!
I have questions for you.
I'm in the middle of the 'six speed parking brake mod' for my '03 Auto CL-S. I have the PB lever mounted and the agenda for tomorrow is to secure the two PB cables.
1) On the picture below it looks like you moved the two cables (circled in blue) over to the right from the original fastening location when it was an auto?
2) To gain a little more 'slack' in those brake cables, to enable connection at the equalizer (just above the blue circle) , did you 'adjust out' a little length by manipulating the PB at the rear brake drum? I'm finding them 'tight' and short in length to connect during test fitting.
Any insight you could provide would be helpful.
Thanks!
i actually used an s2k adjuster rod and spring. Gave it more slack
i actually used an s2k adjuster rod and spring. Gave it more slack
That's a great idea!
So, you then just drilled out the attachment at the PB lever and fitted the S2K rod with lock pin and 'pin'?
It appears the S2K spring is the same P# as the CL-S6 47537-671-670
Zeta, the auto cables are different than the manual ones. Also, the manual cables mount to a bracket that is not found on the auto cars.
The manual cables are both longer, and have the same length. The auto cables are different, as one is short and the other is almost as long as the manual cables (forgot if shorter one is on right or left).
For years I ran the auto cables. I backed out the handbrake lever adjustment all the way, and it was still dragging the parking brake even without the lever pulled. I then backed out the adjuster on the rear drums which worked okay, but resulted in the handbrake barely stopping the car even at full pull. Eventually, I swapped out the cables for the manual ones, and it all fit and worked perfectly.
Thanks man!
I was going to try to adjust at the drums; however, with the S2K rod that looks like it will do the trick without the need for manual cables. Gonna order it up and see what happens.
In addition, just an FYI, if you use that 'blank' to fill the switch hole on your manual cup holder cover, you may need to use an additional 'fitting clip' #15 on the link below to get it to hold properly. I have not had a chance to test it out since it (the clip) has not arrived yet.
So, you then just drilled out the attachment at the PB lever and fitted the S2K rod with lock pin and 'pin'?
It appears the S2K spring is the same P# as the CL-S6 47537-671-670
yeah, i drilled it out and used the s2k rod since the s2k rod is longer and i think i paid $10 shipped
yeah, i drilled it out and used the s2k rod since the s2k rod is longer and i think i paid $10 shipped
Just my luck.
Notified today, regarding S2K Bolt, Joint - Honda (47146-S2A-000); "The above item is on BACKORDER and is no longer available with Honda."
Oh well, Plan B is to find a M6X1.0 Coupling Nut and a long bit of m6x1.0 threaded rod and use that to give me the necessary length to make the connection at the equalizer.
Just my luck.
Notified today, regarding S2K Bolt, Joint - Honda (47146-S2A-000); "The above item is on BACKORDER and is no longer available with Honda."
Oh well, Plan B is to find a M6X1.0 Coupling Nut and a long bit of m6x1.0 threaded rod and use that to give me the necessary length to make the connection at the equalizer.
Check ebay alot of s2k ebrake handles with the rod for 25 shipped
Check ebay alot of s2k ebrake handles with the rod for 25 shipped
UA5_6MT, thanks again. I should be getting the s2k joint bolt in the mail tomorrow to finish up my E-Brake conversion.
One question though, did you salvage yard acquire / source & actually use the proper CL-S6 inside Console Box (83404-S3M-A01ZA; $151.46 ) or did you modify (yellow outlined area inside the console) the TL-S one that came with your car to fit the six speed E-Brake lever assembly and cupholder?
I went to the salvage yard and picked up an extra, and saved my original (just in case), from an Auto TL and hacked a good part away to fit the cupholder / e-Brake lever. Everything looks good, solid and concealed when reassembled; however, I was just wondering what you managed to do for those fitments?
Let me know if you want to see the final result and I'll post pics. I don't want to hijack your excellent thread, hehe.
UA5_6MT, thanks again. I should be getting the s2k joint bolt in the mail tomorrow to finish up my E-Brake conversion.
One question though, did you salvage yard acquire / source & actually use the proper CL-S6 inside Console Box (83404-S3M-A01ZA; $151.46 ) or did you modify (yellow outlined area inside the console) the TL-S one that came with your car to fit the six speed E-Brake lever assembly and cupholder?
I went to the salvage yard and picked up an extra, and saved my original (just in case), from an Auto TL and hacked a good part away to fit the cupholder / e-Brake lever. Everything looks good, solid and concealed when reassembled; however, I was just wondering what you managed to do for those fitments?
Let me know if you want to see the final result and I'll post pics. I don't want to hijack your excellent thread, hehe.
I had a complete 03 cls 6mt console, i swapped the rear vents from the auto to the manual console. You can use the auto tl one but the auto cl one some of them have the cupholder molded into the console itself
I had a complete 03 cls 6mt console, i swapped the rear vents from the auto to the manual console.
Man, I looked high and low locally for a salvage yard six speed, no luck.
Originally Posted by UA5_6MT
You can use the auto tl one but the auto cl one some of them have the cupholder molded into the console itself
Exactly what I ran into with my car. I just used the salvage yard one and cut out (hacksaw blade & dermal) that molded cupholder and a bit more to get it to fit. Top: S2K joint bolt. It has an M8 pin connection diameter at the E-Brake handle and an M6 for the threaded adjusting bolt.
This single part made the whole difference in doing the conversion utilizing the auto brake cables. As mentioned by Karanx7
the left auto cable is shorter and IIRC'ly, the equal length left manual brake cable is no longer available. Bottom: CL-S6 joint bolt. It has an M6 rivet type connection (have to grind away) at the E-brake handle and M6 threaded
adjusting bolt. It's way to short!
Before
S2K joint bolt in place with the added MT Wire Casing Cap Adapter, at the brake cable frame connections. The adapter helped
raise the two cables up a bit; however, it's not really needed.
After
UA5_6MT, thanks again for that E-bay cupholder link.
There is the 'switch hole' lid (77206-SV2-000ZA) to cover the hole left from the absent CL-S6 seat
heater switch. Overall, it looks pretty decent and is a hell of a lot more practical to use versus the 'dumb' foot
E-Brake lever. This mod and the inexpensive 95 Legend caliper swap makes this heavy pig more enjoyable to drive
since I'll be saddled with it until the economy turns around.
04-09-2020, 08:58 AM
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