I have a 2000 TL. It has 178k miles. It works fine in the morning when I go to work as I don't stop on the way. While coming home, I make a few stops. Recently it has been refusing to start after a 15/20 minute stop. I have to start it many times and also push the accelerator to keep it from stalling. Then it starts rough initially and works fine once it starts moving.
I read some old threads about this TSB-
01-001 JAN 01 PCM/Fuel Pressure Regulator - Hard Starting

Is anyone else having this problem? Did replacing PCM/regulator fix the problem?

Some history
- replaced idle control valve 1 yr ago
- adjusted valve timing 2 yrs ago
- cleaned throttle part (don't remember the exact name)
- replaced spark plugs 2 yrs ago

 

Might have an issue with the immobilizer, Do you see a Green light flashing on the dash while trying to start up ? Or Main Relay issue.

 

Welcome juice2000!


Is it throwing any codes? Is the check engine light on?

 

The CEL came on a few times. It showed code for misfire. I don't have the exact code. The CEL went off on its own after a few days.
I talked to a service rep at acura dealer today. He suggested to bring it in for a few tests like fuel pressure, injectors, etc. Is it worth doing all these tests. Since the stalling problem might not happen while the car is in the shop, they're likely to conclude that everthing is fine (or worse - they might replace something which might not fix the problem).
There's no blinking light in the dash.

 

^ yes it is

 

The same exact thing is happening to me also with 170k also...whats really weird is that this started to happend to a lot of 99-00 tl around the same time period, and I personally think our cars not handling winter season gas

 

It's the additives in the winter gas. It never happens after the spring. When you park it for 15 min after the engine is warm, the gas boils over from the heat in the engine compartment. I solved this problem by merely removing the plastic engine covers. Heat escapes better and problem solved. Opening your hood will also prevent this. Another person installed a timer to run the radiator fans for 10 min after the engine shut off and cool the compartment. Try the easiest option first.

 

Maybe the Timing belt jumped a tooth or 2.
When was the last timing belt service done to the car ?
To confirm this all 3 timing points need to be checked.

 

I'd like to see if removing the plastic engine cover solves my problem. Is this easy to do? I am not car expert. Is there some picture showing which screws/parts to remove?

 

Four screws all 10mm at the corners. Don`t loose the screws

 

QUICK TEST: Just open the hood and let the engine release its heat for 15 min after you park the car. Now go start it. Does it start normally? If so, winter fuel boil is your problem. Next try removing the plastic covers and leave the hood closed.....

 

Something to also keep in mind with our TL's getting older and having various issues is to make sure that the PM stuff is all kept up to date. Check the 2nd Gen "DIY" sticky for common problems and fixes.

Things like clogged EGR passageways, TB intake, IAC valve, v-hoses, electrical connections, grounds, ignition, fuel and cooling system components can all contribute to poor starting and general runability issues if left neglected over time.

This stuff can slowly but surely choke the life out of your motor. Basically simple things to look over and eliminate as the cause of problems.

 

Yes, ive done it all.. cooling system is fine, egr recently got cleaned completely, changed spark plugs iridium, changed coils OEM teplacement, IACV was cleaned also. I honostly believe its just winter blend. Because this is the 2nd time its done this to me for a few months then goes away. Both times during winter season and ive owned my tl for 2 yrs now.

 

I use to have that same problem with my 00 tl. And my mom has it on her 03 type s. It's very common but happens the most in the summer, run into a store and 15 min later it doesn't start up. What worked for me was I would actually open the hood. It's almost like a safety shut off when the engine is too hot. Since it sits for a while (not like a 91 prelude where the fans kick in when the car is not running) it will actually get super hot under the good. Had the same thing on my range rover. It's a heating issue that is actually very common. Th check engine light will come on and you will read a cylinder misfire but it will go away later. Have you tried replacing your coils? Around 140-170 is when they start going out on these tls.

 

If you google this heat soak issue you will find it's a common problem across many car brands. That's what happens when the engineers didn't think of the scenario of parking your car for 20 min while going to the grocery store, and coming back to start it again. Nah....nobody would do that....

 

This is why I pointed to the timing belt since you have done almost everything else, Theres a thread on this issue and the member ended up replacing all 6 injectors along with the new fuel pressure regulator and says it fixed it for him. The main relay might have cracks on the soldering, check it before buying anything.

Heres the thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-problems-fixes-117/heat-soak-fuel-boiling-no-start-after-15min-sitting-issue-871358/

 

Once any car and it's electronic controls get over ten years old and nearing 200k, many things will tend to be technologically challenged by the environmental conditions, along with the normal wear and tear from many years of usage being exposed to various extreme elements.

Something is going to eventually begin to fail, perhaps by an engineering flaw or maybe by design ? The manufacturer's would go out of business if the engineers were able to make a car last forever. So, there ya have it.....they come up with a built in time bomb, along with a few gremlins waiting to hatch at an inopportune time.

 

thats just the way its.
juice 2000 : Try letting the fuel pump prime before starting, Put the key in position II give it 4 seconds then crank the engine. That should alleviate the issue.
Thats what I do to mines and my fathers odyssey wich suffers from the same problem.

 

I removed the cover. It seems to help somewhat.
What is the purpose of the cover anyways. I assume it's cosmetic and noise dampening.

 

If it helped somewhat, then fuel boil is your problem. It eliminated the issue for me, but I guess it may not work 100% for everyone. The purpose of the covers to make your engine look hi-tech.

Try the key method Erik mentioned and tell us if it works for you.

 

Well today the Odyssey threw a code for the the Crank sensor P0355 with a long start, when it cools down it stalls after a few seconds.
It has 249k miles. Maybe theres something to look at with this example since it has a long start as well.
I'll post back with the fix if the long start is gone.

 

Samething happened to me recently. My 99TL almost reach 170k. Why this happend around this mileage range, not before or after? I just cleaned the TB, EGR valve and passageway. It gets better but when I have smogcheck, after the test 15 mins, it happened again. However, its was the only one time until now.

 

Today I got around diagnosing the long start on the Odyssey and found one of the wires weather pack was exposed from the CKP Crank Position Sensor, so I pulled it out of the connector and of course corrosion took place, cleaned it up and no more long cranks or the recent P0355.

You might ask how did that happen well the van has 249k miles so with the 2 timing belt jobs done my theory is someone must of pulled on the harness to remove the rear timing belt cover and ultimately exposed the connection, then assuming the timing belt was done at 210k 39k later the P0355.

I will be checking this out on my TL and post back results, The Odyssey has a J35 but its the same setup as our J32

 

Yeah, this is possible and could very well cause issues.

Modern technology has made our motors to be dependent upon many various electronic sensors for input to the PCM/ECU for efficient operation of the vehicle's motor and tranny.

These sensors, along with their associated connectors and wiring can be compromised through time with the extreme elements which they are exposed to. Always check this small stuff before diving into the big stuff !!!

 

The same problem appear with my Acura 2000 3.2 TL (194 k)
Last week I was driving
It makes problem in starting after 4 stop in my journey
After trying couple times it start with rough sound and then start with check engine light appears

Scanned with obd2
Got following codes
appear check via scanner It shows below codes
P0300( Random/multiple cylinder(s) – misfire detected)
P0301 Cylinder 1 – misfire detected
P0302 Cylinder 2 – misfire detected
P0303 Cylinder 3 – misfire detected
P0304 Cylinder 4 – misfire detected
P0305 Cylinder 5 – misfire detected
P0306 Cylinder 6 – misfire detected

P1676 ( Traction Control System FI Data Line No Signal)

Searched online (P300-P306)shows I have to replace spark plugs

But I don't what P1676 means

 

The random multiple misfires could be caused by many different things.

~ Does the car have any specific issues that you could better describe ?
~ Have you done any recent repairs or has this situation just started ?
~ When was the last time that the plugs were replaced ?
~ Have you tried running a fuel system cleaner in the gas yet ?
~ Are there any vacuum leaks that are detectable ?
~ Have you checked all the electrical connections ?

* The TB intake and EGR passageways may be needing cleaned.
* There may be a bad coil or two, check the DIY's for details on checking them.
* The fuel may be contaminated or a delivery pressure issue.

Focus on resolving the misfires for now, then worry about the P1676 later.

 

~ Does the car have any specific issues that you could better describe ?
the car dont have ay specific issue

~ Have you done any recent repairs or has this situation just started ?
No i havent done any recent repairs
and this situation start suddenly(last week) it was creating problem in smooth starting and after starting check engine light appears
Scanned with obd 2 got faults code . reset the faults and on next day it start smoothly with out creating any problem

~ When was the last time that the plugs were replaced ?
i dont know when previous owner replace the plugs

~ Have you tried running a fuel system cleaner in the gas yet ?
i havent tried any thing

~ Are there any vacuum leaks that are detectable ?
i cant see any leaks

~ Have you checked all the electrical connections ?
i havent check any electrical connections

i have talk with my friend's mechanic for detail inspection he will inspect my car next week(saturday)

 

At 178,000 miles, you should probably do a tune up/clean up. Do a couple of these before replacing the spark plugs.


Engine Scrub/Tune Up
1. Clean the throttle body and lube the plate hinges.
2. Clean the egr ports and the egr valve
3. Run a 1/2 can of seafoam through the vacuum lines.
4. Clean and lube the throttle line springs.
5. Clean the iacv valve.
6. Install a new pcv valv


Do these simple cleanings before you put new spark plugs in. You can probably get all this done for under a hundred bucks.

 

EGR cleaning is the best place to start for those codes, with a few cans of carburetor cleaner a 10mm socket and a flat head to scrape the crud loose.
The TCS light goes away as soon as you fix the cause of the misfire and reset the ECU.
Im sure theres a few DIY's on egr cleaning here.

 

It frequently happened to my 99 TL. After stop for 10 or 15 mins after a normal run, it keeps stalling out and took me several time to get it start. I got everything tune up(EGR, TB body, seafoam) but it keep happening. No CEL. What's wrong?

 

When it stalls, does the lights on the dash come on or just blank.
If no lights after stalling, The ignition switch is your issue.

 

I fixed the ignition switch issues last year. Now the CEL light up with P0420. I think its time to have new CAT. Do I need to change O2 sensor first?

 

Have ya cleaned the TB intake and EGR passageways ?
Try some fuel system cleaner also, then reset the CEL.

 

I'm having the same problem. After the car is sitting for 10-15 minutes and I try to turn it on, it takes forever to turn over or just wont turn. I have a video of it if interested. I have an 00 TL with 180k miles. I just replaced the starter last week because someone suggested that could be it. I live in San Diego so i don't think winter gas has anything to do with it either... any help?

 

Do your CEL light up? I have it light up with P0420. I recently cleaned TB, EGR passageway but it did not help. I live in San Jose CA, so I dont think winter gas is the proble. After reset the CEL, it keep turning on with that code. I guess I need new CAT

 

I actually dont get anything that lights up when I try to turn it on, is that weird?

 

Could be something with the fuel pressure, an "iffy" sensor or the main PGM FI relay ?

 

Hmm okay, why do you think this would be the problem and how would that fix it, if you dont mind explaining. I trying to fully understand the problem. Thanks

 

If you have this very specific starting problem, honda's cure is a fuel pressure regulator with a higher pressure setting to keep fuel from boiling in the fuel rail. This tsb also specifies a new ecm to prevent an excessively rich condition as a result of the higher pressure. I'm betting (with my daughter's 00 tl) that the ecm has enough latitude to take care of the extra pressure by decreasing fuel trim (injector on time). Honda has to answer to the epa if this fix changes their emission certification. I have to answer to my daughter if her fuel mileage goes to hell. To my knowledge, two other people on this forum have tried the higher pressure regulator with no success. One had a leaking fuel injector, I think the other is still unfixed. I won't know if this works until we get above 70F or so while still on winter gas on my daughter's car

 

Hey Griffing, this seems to be a rather common issue that unfortunately has never had any real resolution as to the exact cause. All that ya can do is make sure that the basics are covered. It appears that with the aging process along with ethanol enhanced fuel....the problem persists.