NYDesi80

Ok I know this has been talked about to death on this board, but I am anticipating that my brakes are about to go ne time soon as I have about 15000 miles on my car and on the original OEM pads and rotors. So I figure I start the research on this.

Now I thought our OEM Rotors sucked and thas why the warped but why is it that no matter what rotor you put in, aftermarket or OEM, peopel still seem to be having them warp? I dont get it, is the rotors fault or the cars design in some way? I noticed this in my prvious Accord too.

And everytime I wash my car after a short drive of normal driving about 1 mile, my rotors are steaming hot! I dont see why they should get this hot so quickly? Ne one care to chime in.

shimbo519

You gotta realize that your rotors are trying to stop a few thousand lbs. They will get damn hot and i suggest you NEVER touch them after driving, even for a short while. As for aftermarket rotors warping, I have yet to hear a case of this occurring. I have heard numerous ppl complain about their stock rotors warping, but nothing on aftermarkets. Another thing, dont spray cold water on hot rotors....this will cause them to warp

`ill*tl

Never wash your car right after you drive it.

Always wait at least 30 minutes - 1 hour to let the rotors cool off.

Severin

What makes everyone think that its the rotors and not the pads?
Your rotor may not even be warped; it's less likely to be warped than it is that your pads have burnt onto your rotors.
Look at your rotors. Do you see the outline of the pads burned into either side? If yes, then your pads have super heated and burned into the rotor depositing a material stonger than the rotor itself. When you hit the brakes the pads catch on this material and cause the brakes to grab on these spots causing your wheel to shake.

shimbo519

interesting...never heard of that before...good info

`ill*tl

.. or it's because Honda makes real poor rotors.

kevin cody

the pads can not warp, they can create a pattern in the rotor os they settle in, I have irotor drilled/stotted rotors and I do wash my car after driving it because I NEEd to get the car to the wash!! I think they are actually warped again!!!! and that suks because I am going to need to get new rotors and pads again.. it vibrates now at higher speeds. I am going to see after I get new tires and an alignment this weekens. Then I will know for shore how the brakes are. The do work fairly well, but nothing out of the ordinary.. Do good research before buying new ones. I hope to only need tp do the front if I need new ones. Only had then on for about 5k too..

As fas as the pads yes they do wear but can not warp. the vibration if from the surface of the rotor..

Dare_IL

This may help.

Taken from this site - http://www.ceramicbrakes.com/whitepa...otors_myth.htm

PREVENTION

There is only one way to prevent this sort of thing - following proper break in procedures for both pad and disc and use the correct pad for your driving style and conditions. All high performance after market discs and pads should come with both installation and break in instructions. The procedures are very similar between manufacturers. With respect to the pads, the bonding resins must be burned off relatively slowly to avoid both fade and uneven deposits. The procedure is several stops of increasing severity with a brief cooling period between them. After the last stop, the system should be allowed to cool to ambient temperature. Typically, a series of ten increasingly hard stops from 60mph to 5 mph with normal acceleration in between should get the job done for a high performance street pad. During pad or disc break-in, do not come to a complete stop, so plan where and when you do this procedure with care and concern for yourself and the safety of others. If you come to a complete stop before the break-in process is completed there is the chance for non-uniform pad material transfer or pad imprinting to take place and the results will be what the whole process is trying to avoid. Game over.

In terms of stop severity, an ABS active stop would typically be around 0.9 G’s and above, depending on the vehicle. What you want to do is stop at a rate around 0.7

to 0.9 G's. That is a deceleration rate near but below lock up or ABS intervention. You should begin to smell pads at the 5th to 7th stop and the smell should diminish before the last stop. A powdery gray area will become visible on the edge of the pad (actually the edge of the friction material in contact with the disc - not the backing plate) where the paint and resins of the pad are burning off. When the gray area on the edges of the pads are about 1/8" deep, the pad is bedded.

For a race pad, typically four 80mph to 5 and two 100mph to 5, depending on the pad, will also be necessary to raise the system temperatures during break-in to the range that the pad material was designed to operate at. Hence, the higher temperature material can establish its layer completely and uniformly on the disc surface.

Severin

Good stuff; I bedded my pads the last time around at 50K. I replaced the stock rotors with the Brembo blanks (same as stock) and slapped on stock Acura pads. Prior to this, I had my rotors cut twice due to problems.
Since bedding, I've logged another 25K without ANY problems at all. Was it the rotors or the bedding? who knows. Since these rotors are no different than stock, I have to believe the bedding helps.

edgalang

:cop:

I'm suprised noone has told you guys otherwise. A seasoned veteran will tell you that the #1 cause of warped rotors is due to the improper torquing of lug nuts. It should be set to 80lb and should be set evenly. I personally set it @ 40lb in a star pattern, then tightened to 80lb ending with the key.

The car wash/water argument is valid, but ironically, the most overlooked detail happens to be the #1 cause. I suggest you have grab yourself a good torque wrench if you ever plan to take off your wheel (even once).