Originally Posted by oo7spy

Nevermind. I plugged everything in today to check the connections, and I could not see any significant current drop. I had the car idling, AC on, and low and high beams on with the system thumping. Lights didn't dim a bit. Therefore, I don't see a need for a cap and probably won't install one until I see symptoms of under supplying current.

Originally Posted by oo7spy

Can some one explain what this symptom sounds like to me? Intuitively, it doesn't make sense. If the aftermarket subs are getting the same signal as the stock sub, why would the mic think there is suddenly noise that needs to be canceled out? Is it that the aftermarkets rattle things so much more that the system is trying to compensate the new rattle? Is it the fact that the compensating signal is being supplied to both subs, and if the aftermarket is causing the noise in the first place, using it to cancel would only make it worse (i.e. positive feedback)?

Like I mentioned a second ago, I plugged everything in to test, and then I intentionally listened for this but couldn't hear it. What did you hear? I don't really need someone to tell me why more than how to know if it is happening. I did have the ANC turned on. Has anyone tried turning this off to fix it without unplugging the mic? Does it only happen when driving to cancel road noise?

Thanks for any input.

Getting real close to finalizing the system and blasting away... I definitely agree bass is addicting. Gotta get that Boom Boom!

Originally Posted by L's TL

My headlights dim when my sub hits, but nothing else. What wattage and/or amp are you running?

Originally Posted by oo7spy

I am using a 1200 watt Profile CA1200. I bought it when I was 16 and am transferring everything (except the box) that I had in Legend #1. The boxes are custom. The reason I thought I would need the cap is the lights would dim in #1, but looking back, I think it was the age of the charging system and alternator not giving enough juice. It didn't do it when first installed, but after a few years, it got worse. Since I'm not seeing the signs, I will hold off on the cap for now.

To keep the lights from dimming, put 1F per 1000 watts of your amp, and that should give you all the current you need for those momentary hits.

Did you ever try turning the ANC off before unplugging?

Originally Posted by T-jay

Good write up! wiring diagram gonna help me a lot when i start my saround speakers. I tapped into the connection at the factory sub and installed a loc on the rear deck for my sub install. I also ran 4awg wire under the car ran it thru the side skirt and drilled under the car by the rear seat. I ran a JL 12" w6 in a vented enclosure with a 500/1 mono JL audio amp. Now im running a 15" L5 solobaric in a 5 cubic feet custom tuned vented enclosure with a Rockford fosgate power 1000/1 mono block amp. My plans are to replace all four door speakers with 6 1/2" whip audios, 8" slim whip audio in the factory sub location, 2 4" tweeters in the rear deck, a loudspeaker in the front bumper with a switch, a good 4 channel and a good 2 channel amp. My right door bose speaker already self distructed cause i was pumping it a little out of control the last to years. Good to see someone with patience enough to do a good write up keep up the good work!

Originally Posted by Ruserious

Can someone hep me with this issue. My subs keep going off even with the volume all the way down and the radio off. Its annoying. I did a similar set up as you guys with the converter and all.