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@HDNBenjamin Sure did, along with check airbag, blink D.....usually did it on second start if the car was warm or if i was sitting idling for a few minutes then shifted into D. Has not reoccurred since the switch has been changed!
@HDNBenjamin Sure did, along with check airbag, blink D.....usually did it on second start if the car was warm or if i was sitting idling for a few minutes then shifted into D. Has not reoccurred since the switch has been changed!
Thanks. I just ran the scanner, it is a bad knock sensor. p0325. FML!
Originally Posted by Walfunk
Replaced front rotors with Powerstop drilled/slotted ones. They look and stop great. Rear rotors refused to come off, will try again tomorrow....
@HDNBenjamin sorry about the knock sensor man, good luck with that, I have no clue what that fix entails....... Took the rear rotors to a mechanic, he had to torch them off, it would have been impossible for me to do. Done now, looks and stops great again.
Took my 2006 RL to the dealer because something wasn't right with the shifting in the transmission.
What was the problem with the shifting?
My RL takes about a second to shift into R, and another second to shift into D. Is this normal?
I've had the RL less than a year, and about 7K miles driven. The last record of transmission fluid and differential fluid change was at 70K miles. It currently has 147K.
I went ahead and purchased ATF, AWD, and gear fluid. Not sure when I'll actually change it out. My Acura dealer was out of gear oil so I went with the Supertech, hoping it'll be an OK substitute.
Mine is also slow to make the R/D shift, and always has been - so I think it's normal
I finally changed the fluid for the transmission, transfer case, and rear differential. The fluid came out dark brown. Shifts are much smoother but not much difference in speed between shifts.
I also changed the spark plugs at 149K miles. I can't tell how old the spark plugs are as there is no record of it ever been changed, however the power and mileage was in the normal range at 15-19 mpg city and up to 28 mpg on the freeway, so I'm not expecting any difference with the new plugs.
Was this the 1st time changing the fluids? You changed them or did you have a shop do it??
One of the previous owners changed them at 70K at the dealer, and I'm probably the second one to change it out but I did it myself with a harbor freight fluid pump for the front transfer assembly. I used a 5 feet hose for the rear differential and the harbor freight fluid pump to top it off.
The car is more responsive with the new spark plugs.
Next on the list is timing belt, water pump; associated seals and pulleys, but I'll probably take it to a shop.
One of the previous owners changed them at 70K at the dealer, and I'm probably the second one to change it out but I did it myself with a harbor freight fluid pump for the front transfer assembly. I used a 5 feet hose for the rear differential and the harbor freight fluid pump to top it off.
The car is more responsive with the new spark plugs.
Next on the list is timing belt, water pump; associated seals and pulleys, but I'll probably take it to a shop.
I don't think so because the plugs look dry and normal. The previous owners seem to have changed the oil religiously at 3000 - 5000 mile intervals, and I've kept that up as well with full synthetic oil.
Yesterday I finally installed a set of Osram CBI's that I've had for a few years, but never got motivated enough to install. I went through the fender liner and found that it wasn't really that bad. The passenger side was definitely easier than the drivers side. Now I just need to order ~6 push clips to replace the ones that I broke.
Expecting bulbs tomorrow. Any tips you care to share for install.... I heard this is pain in the ass........thanks!
No real tips to share except maybe start with the passenger side if you decide to go through the wheel well. There's a lot more room to maneuver and you can kind of see what you're doing, and how the bulb holder comes apart. The drivers side is a tight fit and I had to perform the bulb swap mostly by feel. It wasn't so bad since I already knew what to do on the passengers side.
I've heard that dropping the bumper is a good way to tackle this like truonghthe mentioned. I was afraid that if I unbolted the bumper, there would be a chance that I'd have to fight it to line up perfectly again. I've had this problem on my CL.
HID Bulbs can be easily changed from top, for passenger side remove the windshield washer fluid filler tube and you will have a lot of room. On driver's side remove the battery and you can do it easily, no need to remove the bumper. You would disconnect the battery anyway as a safety measure when working on HID components.
After browsing the forums again it's motivated me to take care of some seriously past due maintenance and repairs on my neglected RL.
Maintenance List
1. Timing Belt (~25k miles past due)
2. Shocks (tire shop said they need to be replaced because they're causing the tires to cup)
3. Front Rotors (these have been warped for several months)
4. Air Filters
5. Headlights (I sanded, buffed and clear coated the passenger side last year and it's held up pretty well. I also purchased some Osram CBI's a few years ago, but never installed them.)
Repair List
1. Drivers side window doesn't roll up or down.
2. Rear drivers side door only locks/unlocks manually.
3. Passenger side rear door sometimes doesn't automatically lock/unlock.
4. Replace several burnt out bulbs in center stack.
5. Replace both drivers side and center arm rests. (My girlfriend bought me the replacement center arm rest cover off of ebay, but I think it's for a taupe interior while mine might be parchment)
6. Replace passenger side fog light (cracked glass)
This past weekend I replaced the front rotors with Stoptech cryo treated slotted rotors. I've had these rotors on my 1st gen CL for several years and have been pretty happy with them. The only mishap was breaking one of the bolts on the brake line bracket.
The intake filter was replaced around this time last year. It's wasn't too bad, but the cabin air filter has never been replaced in the ~8 years that I've owned the car.
There's still a lot of work to do, but at least I've started.
Did you replace the struts that caused cupping of the tires? I have a cupped tire and it vibrates and thumps on the freeway. My struts are new but the cupping was caused by the old struts. I was told it may eventually smooth out with the new struts but if it doesn't then replace all four tires.
I went to a shop and paid $1200 to replace the timing belt, water pump, hydraulic tensioner, idler bearing, tensioner bearing, cam and crank seals, coolant, thermostat, brake fluid, and synthetic oil change.
Are you going to replace the rear as well? might as well given that you are already there. it will leak sooner or later.
Yeah I'm doing both banks, might as well since I already have the intake plentum off right? For the record, for anyone reading this down the road, Acura's valve cover gasket kit is only for one bank and not for both!
Did you replace the struts that caused cupping of the tires? I have a cupped tire and it vibrates and thumps on the freeway. My struts are new but the cupping was caused by the old struts. I was told it may eventually smooth out with the new struts but if it doesn't then replace all four tires.
New shocks and struts should be arriving this Thursday. I plan to rent a spring compressor and take care of this over the holiday weekend.
New shocks and struts should be arriving this Thursday. I plan to rent a spring compressor and take care of this over the holiday weekend.
Did you get KYBs? It's too bad there isn't much aftermarket support for RL's because I'd love to try Konis or Bilsteins.
When I replaced mine I used ratcheting straps to keep the springs compressed before removing the strut mounts. Straps work just as good as spring compressors.
Did you get KYBs? It's too bad there isn't much aftermarket support for RL's because I'd love to try Konis or Bilsteins.
When I replaced mine I used ratcheting straps to keep the springs compressed before removing the strut mounts. Straps work just as good as spring compressors.
Yeah, I got the KYB's from Rock Auto. If they ride as good as stock, then I'll be happy.
I removed the old struts from the car today and had a hell of a time getting them out. I had to wait for my neighbor to get home from work to barrow his 5 foot pry bar and give me hand. Tomorrow I'll compress the springs and swap the struts, then tackle the rear shocks. Hopefully they're a bit easier.
Yeah I'm doing both banks, might as well since I already have the intake plentum off right? For the record, for anyone reading this down the road, Acura's valve cover gasket kit is only for one bank and not for both!
yes, so you will have to get 2 kits to get both bank done.
Yeah, I got the KYB's from Rock Auto. If they ride as good as stock, then I'll be happy.
I removed the old struts from the car today and had a hell of a time getting them out. I had to wait for my neighbor to get home from work to barrow his 5 foot pry bar and give me hand. Tomorrow I'll compress the springs and swap the struts, then tackle the rear shocks. Hopefully they're a bit easier.
If I recall correctly I used a 2 feet breaker bar and turned the steering wheel to get clearance for the strut to drop out through the front of the control arm. The rear shocks were easier without much hassle.
KYB's are generally 5 to 10 percent firmer than stock to compensate for worn springs.
If I recall correctly I used a 2 feet breaker bar and turned the steering wheel to get clearance for the strut to drop out through the front of the control arm. The rear shocks were easier without much hassle.
KYB's are generally 5 to 10 percent firmer than stock to compensate for worn springs.
I didn't think about trying to turn the wheel. The shock went in with the wheel straight, but it was a struggle. The hard brake line got a little bent and twisted, but I was able to twist them back into place.
The rears were definitely easier. I'm glad I checked the forums before attempting it. My first thought was to pull out the trunk liner to find the top mounting bolts, but that would have been a waste of time.
I took a long ride in the car today after replacing the shocks. It does ride much better now. There's no more clunk from the front passenger side tire when hitting bumps. These shocks were long overdue.
11-12-2020, 08:13 PM
