Unlock trunk on '05 RL with dead battery?
#1
Unlock trunk on '05 RL with dead battery?
So my battery is dead as a doornail, can only open the door with the physical key and, 10 years into ownership, it's only now dawned on me that the trunk doesn't appear to have any method to open other than electronic (unless there's a key-lock squirreled away back there I couldn't find). I have jumper cables AND a portable battery in my trunk - but I can't get at them. Is it possible to access the trunk through the rear seat somehow and engage an emergency release? If so any pointers? TIA.
The following 2 users liked this post by NBP04TL4ME:
Karl_in_Chicago (12-21-2014),
oo7spy (12-21-2014)
#3
The following 2 users liked this post by oo7spy:
Karl_in_Chicago (12-21-2014),
NBP04TL4ME (12-21-2014)
The following users liked this post:
Karl_in_Chicago (12-21-2014)
#6
The emergency trunk release is on the passenger side, near the tail light.
I had to use a flash light and the thinnest broom handle I could find. Luckily I had one with a small plastic loop on the end that would fit inside the latch to shove over. It's fairly effortless once you get in there.
I had to use a flash light and the thinnest broom handle I could find. Luckily I had one with a small plastic loop on the end that would fit inside the latch to shove over. It's fairly effortless once you get in there.
The following users liked this post:
Karl_in_Chicago (12-21-2014)
#7
Thanks everyone, that's tremendously helpful! Not too long ago I'd just have a friend bring over his own jumpers and start me but now I'm in a high-rise and my parking spot is right at the top of an up-ramp so if the parking spaces next to me are occupied (usually are) there's not a good way to have the "donor" car park. BTW - not a fan of the battery design with that fuse box on it - very difficult to get access to the positive terminal with anything other than half-height needlenose type jumper clamps. Tomorrow I'll follow your advice and liberate my trunk.
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#8
I am nearly positive the release is on the driver's side. The only reason I don't say that with certainty is because I don't have an RL in the garage to go confirm.
Last edited by oo7spy; 12-21-2014 at 08:30 PM.
#9
Thanks everyone, that's tremendously helpful! Not too long ago I'd just have a friend bring over his own jumpers and start me but now I'm in a high-rise and my parking spot is right at the top of an up-ramp so if the parking spaces next to me are occupied (usually are) there's not a good way to have the "donor" car park. BTW - not a fan of the battery design with that fuse box on it - very difficult to get access to the positive terminal with anything other than half-height needlenose type jumper clamps. Tomorrow I'll follow your advice and liberate my trunk.
-ve to the car frame.
You're supposed to connect away from the battery, because of the risk of a spark/hydrogen explosion. It rarely happens, but it's nasty when it does.
#10
Stay Out Of the Left Lane
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 9,028
Likes: 1,251
From: SE Mass --- > Central VA --- > SE Mass
Soooo... Are you suggesting to not to connect to the battery at all??
#11
To resolve the issue I actually mentioned with regard to the cramped access to the positive terminal I daisy chained my portable battery's chunky (and steel?) positive clamp via my jumper cables which have half-height needlenose copper jaws. For simpler access in the future I'm going to seek out a simple needlenose style standalone clamp to place on the + post.
#12
Stay Out Of the Left Lane
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 9,028
Likes: 1,251
From: SE Mass --- > Central VA --- > SE Mass
I've never heard anyone advise not connecting to the positive terminal. Classic instructions I'm used to were to connect to the positive and then connect the negative to a ground NOT on the battery - back in the day this would have been pretty much any part of the engine block that was clampable. Sequence is also important in avoiding sparks - connect positive first, then ground. Disconnect ground first, then positive. Should a spark be issued it would be done at the ground contact point - away from the battery and any vented gas. These days with aluminum and alloys being much more common than FE it's a lot harder to find a good ground - so most will use the battery posts.
To resolve the issue I actually mentioned with regard to the cramped access to the positive terminal I daisy chained my portable battery's chunky (and steel?) positive clamp via my jumper cables which have half-height needlenose copper jaws. For simpler access in the future I'm going to seek out a simple needlenose style standalone clamp to place on the + post.
To resolve the issue I actually mentioned with regard to the cramped access to the positive terminal I daisy chained my portable battery's chunky (and steel?) positive clamp via my jumper cables which have half-height needlenose copper jaws. For simpler access in the future I'm going to seek out a simple needlenose style standalone clamp to place on the + post.
And does this mean you were able to successfully get into your trunk??
#14
Owner's Manual link
http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/p...u/JA0505OM.pdf
#15
Stay Out Of the Left Lane
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 9,028
Likes: 1,251
From: SE Mass --- > Central VA --- > SE Mass
I personally have done very well with OEM Honda/Acura batteries but if you are going to the dealer tomorrow to have another OEM battery installed, you will find plenty of dissention in the ranks from other AZ members. They will tell you to go Optima, Costco, Walmart, etc...and how bad OEM batteries are.
If not OEM replacement under warranty, I would go to your local Sears and get a DieHard. Whenever I have had to replace a battery and pay for it out of my own pocket, a DieHard is purchased.
Plus as you say, it's a Christmas present, so why not splurge on yourself
If not OEM replacement under warranty, I would go to your local Sears and get a DieHard. Whenever I have had to replace a battery and pay for it out of my own pocket, a DieHard is purchased.
Plus as you say, it's a Christmas present, so why not splurge on yourself
#16
I personally have done very well with OEM Honda/Acura batteries but if you are going to the dealer tomorrow to have another OEM battery installed, you will find plenty of dissention in the ranks from other AZ members. They will tell you to go Optima, Costco, Walmart, etc...and how bad OEM batteries are.
If not OEM replacement under warranty, I would go to your local Sears and get a DieHard. Whenever I have had to replace a battery and pay for it out of my own pocket, a DieHard is purchased.
Plus as you say, it's a Christmas present, so why not splurge on yourself
If not OEM replacement under warranty, I would go to your local Sears and get a DieHard. Whenever I have had to replace a battery and pay for it out of my own pocket, a DieHard is purchased.
Plus as you say, it's a Christmas present, so why not splurge on yourself
Your advice is spot on, though, and if I lived in a warmer climate or had access to a good work area I'd pick up an Optima Red Top ($140 shipped on Amazon) and drop it in myself. 1.5 days away from Christmas I'm going to toss the dealer the keys, have an espresso or two and kick the tires of the RLX.
#18
If I were you, I'd toss the dealer the keys, take your espresso across the street and kick the tires of the new AWD Genesis.
#19
The RLX is suffering from the same first MY design issues the 2005 RL suffered from. Would you toss the dealer your RL keys now? Just sayin'.
OP, Optima Red Tops are not the same as they used to be. "Made in Mexico" is the common complaint around here. I don't have personal experience with them, but plenty of other members around here do. Just something to keep in mind.
OP, Optima Red Tops are not the same as they used to be. "Made in Mexico" is the common complaint around here. I don't have personal experience with them, but plenty of other members around here do. Just something to keep in mind.
#20
I'm not buying anything - with only 67K miles on my '05 RL it's still rolling quite well. Just something to do while the service dept does it's thing. I'm still quite intrigued by the hybrid RLX, though, and will continue to follow it. What Consumer Reports thinks has never meant crap to me TBH.
#22
Agree, 007. But the FWD is the volume model, and it's the one that's priced roughly where the 2005 RL was. For that money, you lose the wood, the leather and the SH-AWD, but you gain a bunch of rear legroom and a snaggle tooth. What's not to like?
#26
Follow up: turns out the battery was still under warranty and just needed charging as my new life in Chicago's Loop has me driving very little - and I didn't drive that much before as next month will be 10 years of ownership and only 67K miles. Anyhoo dealer didn't charge me a dime but charged up the battery and checked for any possible shorts/draws, topped up the fluids, aired the tires, washed it, etc, and served up espresso's and cappuccino's. Also checked out the RLX - very nice interior, extremely comfortable seats. Will definitely be on the list to consider when it's time to replace the RL.
#27
Stay Out Of the Left Lane
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 9,028
Likes: 1,251
From: SE Mass --- > Central VA --- > SE Mass
Follow up: turns out the battery was still under warranty and just needed charging as my new life in Chicago's Loop has me driving very little - and I didn't drive that much before as next month will be 10 years of ownership and only 67K miles. Anyhoo dealer didn't charge me a dime but charged up the battery and checked for any possible shorts/draws, topped up the fluids, aired the tires, washed it, etc, and served up espresso's and cappuccino's. Also checked out the RLX - very nice interior, extremely comfortable seats. Will definitely be on the list to consider when it's time to replace the RL.
#28
What's better than that? Merry Christmas to you!! You might want to consider a trickle charger (if that is a viable option) to keep you battery up to snuff with your lack of driving. Also keep in mind automotive batteries do not like to be deep cycled like marine batteries do. So keep an eye on yours as it may not be as healthy as it seems to be or your dealer led you to believe.
I just need to start scheduling a weekly or bi-weekly "drive in the country" to get a good run on the RL to keep the battery properly charged. Probably coordinate that with a gas fill-up once I escape the taxman's clutches here in C(r)ook County.
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