JDMCRX,

Thanks for the pics - most helpful. How often do you plan on changing this filter?
Btw, what size magnafine filter is that 3/8?

 

I'll get more pics next week.

I am going to change it once a year as I don't drive a lot but I figure 20,000km take it off and cut open and see how bad it is ! I figure the first time
Your are going to catch a lot of junk that the factory drain plug does not and see what fibers it has in it !

Factory magnet only catches shavings after oil
Settles mostly !

 

Did the install take long? That part of the engine bay is pretty tight.

 

Can you re-word the description of the trams fluid flow? I don't follow. Do you keep the flow going through the cooler? If so, then I would agree this is a great mod.


I changed my wife's CRV trams fluid last night, and there were almost no particles on the magnet. I distinctly remember a significant amount in the RL's first change, so I am wondering if the vast majority of shavings occur in the first 30k miles. The fluid was WAY cleaner than motor oil too. If the majority of impurities happen at the beginning of service, it would make sense why the filter doesn't need to be changed.

 

Hate to revive this thread but it is a good one. How much ATF comes out when you do a drain and refill?

 

3.5 quarts...from what I remember.

 

The service manual says 2.9 quarts for a drain and fill.

 

Has anyone contacted Redline to see which of their fluids they suggest? And has anyone tried Lubegard Anti-Shudder? I feel like I get some shudder when the tranny upshifts to the highest gear while I am cruising at around 40-45MPH.

 

manual said its 2.9 quarts but I only manage drain about 2.5 quarts at each time and all thanks to the stupid splash guard design.

 

Funny you mention that, I just did my transmission service on Sunday. You're right, the splash guard design causes some losses. I measured out 2.6 quarts when I poured everything into the quart bottles.

 

On the TL you can remove the whole piece that cover the ATF drain bolt, for whatever reason they decide not to do that in the RL, may be they want you to visit the dealer for service?

 

Probably! Even the placement of the fill bolt makes me wonder if their intent was to send you to the dealer...

 

I just fill from the top with ease..

 

I fill it through the transmission dipstick. The top of the tranny is a non starter, you need to move the fuse boxes to get a good seating of your socket and you need a large extension. A real PIA. SO much easier via the dipstick with a transmission funnel. Takes 3 quarts.

 

It's a tight fit for sure but nothing a long extension/swivel socket can't handle..

 

I crack loose the fill both with 3/8 extension with 17mm deep socket just fine on all of my car. I don't know why its such a drama for some you.

 

Nothing an extension didn't fix for me lol

 

After some digging, I discovered that the shudder I am experiencing is probably due to the tranny holding 5th gear too long at low speeds and throttle. I think I need to get the computer flashed per the TSB.

Still wondering about fluids though. Redline suggests their D4 product and specifically calls out it being compatible with the original fluid in this car. I just don't know if they put in enough friction modifier. I have heard the full syn Valvoline maxlife might be a good choice. Comments?

 

Forgot to mention that I discovered that the folks at Lubegard are also now selling an ATF that claims it is Z1 compatible. Lubegard is by far the best manufacturer of additives for transmission fluid. I have personally seen their stuff work miracles and not just short term. I hold Redline and Lubegard in the highest regard.

 

Wow this is awesome. I just got my Tranny service today along with the differential and the people at my local Acura dealer'Rick case Acura told me I a recommendation of every 30000 miles for tranny and diff oils

 

Guys I don't remember which thread/post I have read recently where someone was mentioning 3x3 drain and fill but also said to go through different gears and lock torque converter in 5th gear. What does that mean and how would I know that?

 

Just do a good drain and fill and make sure you deal with all four sections.

 

Which four sections you are mentioning? Below is what I thought to do, unless I only need 1 drain and fill instead of doing it 3 times.

1) For ATF, I want to drain, then fill
2) Then lower the vehicle
3) Put it in Drive while on the lift
4) Then need to go through all 5 gears. How would I know the car is in 5th gear to make sure fluid from torque converter gets mixed?

 

No....that's wrong.
1. Drain and fill ATF and use the fill hole provided.
2. Drain and fill the mid (aka "transfer case") with gear fluid.
3. Drain and fill the TWO rear sections with ATF fluid, or its current replacement.

If that's gibberish, refer to the maintenance manual on this site. That 3X3 thingy is crap!! Just sayin'.....

 

So #2 and 3, I will do, no issues. As for the ATF, you don't thing changing it 3 times worth it or provides any benefits?

 

For sure

 

I'll get flamed for this one: It's urban legend!! Yes, you'll find zealots here but I have yet to find an Acura maintainer who says it's worth the $$s (very expensive) and time.

I change Rear Diff (both chambers) every 30K, ATF every 60K (and yes, none of that silly 3x3 stuff), and Transfer Case every 90K......all of which are Acura recommended intervals I believe. 165K on the clock and never a problem. Just sayin' is all.....