FN P90

I was checking the fluid levels yesterday, when I noticed the transmission fluid level was about 1 INCH ABOVE where it should be. It also had a burn smell too.

Now this drain and fill took place in December 2006, it's now April 2007 and I bet I've put on another 20 - 25,000 miles since the jerk tech overfilled my transmission.


So, not only did the tech screw up by stating he used GEAR LUBE for the rear differential, but he says he used 4 quarts of fluid. I think it only takes 3 quarts, but what do I know, that's why I bring my car to the experts.

The same tech tore off, and never replaced, one of the plastic push pins that hold the splash guard under the engine. Nice job, douche-bag!

Here's my question: Can an overfilled transmission cause any long-term problems?

RL05

Firstly, I have no idea about the fluid. Sorry for the slightly OT question....but, YOU HAVE OVER 135K MILES ON AN '05 RL???!!!

kirbyflorida

Call Acura Corp. and let them document it just in case.

sotiri

yes it can. an overfilled transmission can have an effect of too much pressure in the system.
Also the oil can froth from high pressure and overfilling, and that can lead to viscosity problems and high temps in the gears.

FN P90

Thanks! I'll call Acura Corp. tomorrow.

I called the Acura dealer that worked on my car today, of course they can't find the invoice anywhere, maybe I can send them a link to this thread. Anyway, none of the 3 service reps knew how many quarts of fluid my RL takes, but one lady said if the car calls for anything over 3 quarts the tech writes up 4 quarts. Well that's great to know, but that still doesn't answer why my transmission is OVERFILLED BY AT LEAST 1 FRIGGIN QUART by some IDIOT service technician who can't read and won't check a transmission dipstick. I guess I'm the fool for not checking out the dipstick who was working on my car. Lesson learned.

Details to follow.

sotiri

by the way, the BEST way to measure you tranny level is to run the engine, and cycle the tranny through all the gears while stopped, and then checking the level. If you check a tranny after just starting it, and not putting it through each and every gear (and yes taking it for a spin is just as good as keeping it stopped and putting the tranny into each shift) you can get a false reading of too much oil in the tranny.
Double check your stick after taking it for a spin, and putting the car in park-and LEAVING the engine ON.

SodaLuvr

Actually, on a Honda, that is NOT the correct way of checking the fluid. Unless the RL is different than a normal Honda transmission, they are to be checked as followed:

1. Drive vehicle until hot. 10-15 miles of driving is sufficient.
2. Park vehicle on level ground. Shut off.
3. Immediately open hood and check fluid level with the engine OFF within 30 seconds of shutdown.

Checking the fluid level with the engine on will give you an inaccurate reading with Honda transmissions.

As for the odor, was that your first fluid change? That's normal. Honda ATF will turn brown and smell awful but is normal...

FN P90

Thanks again for the info, I'll try it again, once it's out of the shop for paint work on the trunk lid. The paint started to bubble on the lid just under the rear spoiler. I thought the lid was aluminum so it can't be rust, but Acura's fixing that issue.

The transmission fluid was changed once before around 50K.

Do you guys have any preference on front brake pads? I'm on my 4th set of pads and thought about trying out something new. EBC, Akebono or OEM?

SodaLuvr

Why did you change the ATF at around 50k miles? Or at 115k? Was it because subcode 3 was displayed both times?

What color is your ATF right now?

Akebono is marketed as an "OEM replacement" type pad. It is designed to give low noise, low dust, and long life. EBC is marketed as a performance pad, with a greater emphasis on performance and less emphasis on noise, pad life, and dust. (Some may disagree) I'd say go with the Akebonos...but that's just me. It's really what you're aiming for...OEM replacement...or performance damn the noise???

catsailr

Back in 1995 I had a Chev Blazer and had the transmission fluid changed by the dealer at 15,000 miles. Later, I was pulling an emtpy U-Haul trailer down the interstate, looked in the rear view mirror, and saw a lot of smoke comiing up behind me. I pulled over and called the roadside assistance, was towed to the nearest Chev dealer, and was told the transmission had been overfilled. They drained some of the fluid and I didn't have anymore problems. I guess there is a relief valve if the pressure builds up too much, but it doesn't seem that would be to good for the transmission.

FN P90

I changed the fluid regardless of the codes. It's just an easy milestone to remember to change it by. I had a 1996 RL with over 320,000 with the same transmission and engine because of regular maintenance.

My car's in the body shop right now getting the trunk painted, so I'm not sure of the color of the fluid. I think it was kind of brownish colored.

Thanks for the info on the pads. I might experiment with something new.

medrxman

What you have circled is 4 Gear oil, NOT Transmission Fluid.
The service ticket seems to indicate both Rear Diff and Trans service.

wern't both services done?

Am I wrong?

FN P90

UPDATE:

Okay, I'm the idiot. I checked the level while hot, it was in the normal area. So I take back all those things I said about the tech, except he's still a douche-bag for breaking the push pin and not replacing it. I had to save face on something.

Thanks again for the info, guys!

chuck abbott

I always change my transmission fluid at 40k and have never had a problem with automatics. All this BS about life time fill is just another way the manufacturers save a buck while the vehicle is still under guarantee. I use RedLine products when ever I can.