Change your fluids WOW when i got my rl the oils were dark and looked like need to be changed but everyone says wait till the check engine light comes on? Im a mechanic and have a lot of experence with oil. It looked bad to me and the dealer said wait but thats dumb! I have never seen oil to last more than 30000 km's in the trans or 3500 km's for the engine. Sure enough i told the dealer i don't care if there is no light change it!! Now the car feels waaaay better don't forget your PCV valve. My oil test is take a look at what your oil looks like NEW and when you check your oil pull the dip stick and wipe it sideways on a paper towel and note the color, smell, and small particals. Oil only lasts if it is in good shape if it looks diss colored and so on change it. It will only make your car last longer now that would suck. lolol

 

Honda's ATF is supposed to turn dark - the change in color doesn't mean it's degraded. You're fine changing it by the schedule set in the MID. Unless you're driving on a track or in ridiculously extreme conditions you should be fine.

 

The Acura service bulletins say the same--that the fluid is supposed to turn dark.

 

thats like saying the rain is wet. as you drive the oil gets darker then burns out slowly so depending on how hard you drive. The manuel is guidelines but if you know how to inspect your cars fluids then your one step ahead of making your car last forever. Just trying to help you guyz my car feels a lot better and they said don't change it.

 

I don't dare question the Acura RL. This car will tell me when it needs some service, I didn't get a 50 thousand dollar car for me to get dirty under the hood or anywhere else lookin at stuff and checkin to see if it needs some service or what have you.

 

I guess will see what you say when your warranty is up and you realize that your car is only worth 25k if your lucky. If i beleved everything i read and heard id be dead! There is no way oil will last 100000 km's i dont care how you drive. And honda can not prove to you or anyone what excact condition your oil is in now or have any machine to tell you. Your car ECU only goes by miles or km's and then turns a light on when you hit a certin mark it doesn't analize the trans fluid and diffs. So good luck with that.

 

I'll prob be done with it before it hits 100 thou mi.

 

The recommended service intervals are recommended under normal driving situations.
If one is aggressive with their vehicle then the fluids should be changed more often.

 

You make a fair point, and clean tranny fluid is a good thing. If you choose to use the severe service guidelines, that's cool and also supported in the available literature.

I think the point of others is that Honda spent $$$ to figure out service intervals and most of us stick to them.

 

the RL's computers are not set by mileage like it was set 04 back. It uses complicated algorithms that take account engine speed, temperature, engine temperature, CEL's, fuel consumption, oil-pressure, etc. Also synthetic oil will change to a DARK, and I mean DARK color in 50 miles, its natural for color change to occur. Numerous folks have had their oil analyzed when the MID said to change it and the analysis showed that the oil had degraded, but still had enough lubrication properties. the honda trans fluid is rated to last 30,000 miles in the cars, not 30,000KM btw

 

Just be prepared to take it up the #$%^&* as Honda ATF is TWICE what Lexus charges for their ATF.

 

1. when you trade your car in, do you think that you will get more for it because you have changed the fluids more frequently? 90% of dealers don't even want your RL in trade, they only do it to make a sale and they all low-ball the price.
2. How many cars have you heard of failing because of old engine oil? Numerous people change oil at twice the recommended interval and never have a problem. The days of engine seizures is long gone except for the rare case of the fluid being way too old or very very low.
3. How long are you going to run your car? If it's over 300000 miles then maybe synthetic or more frequent changes would have some value but most people who buy a $50K car do not keep it for 10 years, they will trade it long before any oil related problems become apparent.

 

I don't drive a car unless it is driving in top shape. You wont get more money for it but it will drive much better than one that has had no service or just the mininum. And who would sell there car to a dealer anyways and get shafted! I've seen lots of honda's that have failed because of they don't change there oil and pcv's and start to burn oil and then die. I'm going to run the car untill i get sick of it then sell it for the most i can will be easy because i take good care of it and someone will notice that.

 

Actually, if purchasing from a private party and the owner had receipts showing regular synthetic oil changes, that would take precedence over others cars on the market as it shows the owner cared about his car. To heck with dealer trade in. I do not look at price alone, but how well the owner cared for their car.

I run synthetic for the protection ( I drive HARD in the mountains) increased MPG ,and performance increase.

I also change my Mobile 1 every 3500-4000 miles with all receipts. Not concerned whether it needs it. I would rather caution on not needing it vs. needing it.

To answer your other question, I blew up the motor (threw a rod bearing) in my SC400 due to poor oil change intervals coupled with my driving. Rebuilt the motor myself but it was not fun and the downtime was a pita as I only had the one car at the time. But, your correct in that driven normally the MID function will suffice for 99% of the people out there.

So to answer the OP, yes, I change my fluid well before the MID tells me to do so. It gives me piece of mind which is priceless, and I get to tinker with the car more to keep my tools shiny.

 

i keep my cars in a temp controlled garage. When i change my oil at 10% oil change on the MID, my motor oil looks as clean as the day I put it in the car. Same with my motorcycle and Toyotas

 

well i'm glad some people take care of their investments.

 

I did a transflush and differential change last week at the dealer. Yeah, it was expensive and the dealer is a ripoff, but still, its worth it. I've learned that if you take care of your car, than in return the car will take care of you in the long term. So far my car drives even better and I love driving it, by far the best car I ever owned and worth every penny.

 

My car is at 38k and is asking for an oil change. Is this a regular motor oil change or a tranny, differential, motor oil change interval? Basically would I be foolish to have a regular garage do it? Or do I go to the dealer to get all of the steps done right and pay out the nose?
Thanks,
Adam

 

just go to the dealer its not that bad worth taking of it. They change the drain plug gaskets to there is 7 of them and honda oil is best.

 

rtr - you are implying that you can tell the difference in performance after an oil change? In a blind test, I would doubt it. I think that the "warm and fuzzy feeling" that you get knowing that you changed the oil is what makes you think that. Measure 0 - 60 before and after and see the difference. As previously stated, the oil within the MIDs range still lubricates even if if it's a little darker.

And to your last point: Honda is now making oil? Honda may spec the oil but they do not make it and BTW the oil specified is about the same for all cars of that model year.
Acura use the MID as a guide and they don't do it so that your engine will seize prematurely - they cannot afford the rebuilds, the bad press, the law suits or the drop in sales.

 

Anyone have luck/issues with Kendall Synth blend motor oil in their RLs? The place I used to take my CL uses that exclusively. Also full synthetic or blend? (if the oil isnt crap).

Just want to make sure its a decent oil before I start taking my RL there for reg oil changes. This place is a mile down the road and the nearest Acura dealer is 50+ Miles away.

 

Any current API Certified Oil SM, SL, SJ or SH will do. If the Kendall is API certified, which I am pretty certain is is, and it is the correct weight, it should be fine.

From the manual,

Recommended Engine Oil
Oil is major contributor to your
engine’s performance and longevity.
Always use a premium-grade
detergent oil displaying the API
Certification Seal. This seal indicates
the oil is energy conserving and that
it meets the American Petroleum
Institute’s latest requirements.

Honda Motor Oil is the preferred
5W-20 lubricant for your vehicle. It is
highly recommended that you use
Honda Motor Oil in your vehicle for
optimum engine protection. Make
sure the API Certification Seal says
‘‘For Gasoline Engines.’’

The oil viscosity or weight is
provided on the container’s label.
5W-20 oil is formulated for yearround
protection of your vehicle to
improve cold weather starting and
fuel economy.

Synthetic Oil
You may use a synthetic motor oil if
it meets the same requirements
given for a conventional motor oil: it
displays the API Certification Seal,
and it is the proper weight. You must
follow the oil and filter change
intervals given on the maintenance
schedule

 

Thanks!
I just wanted to make sure Kendall oil doesnt have any "gum up" type stories. I remember years ago (Prol about 25) hearing stories of engines with gummed up oil inside engines and cant for the life of me, remember what type oil it was. I just remember the bad oil having a green label and it was pretty popular at the time.

Im sure technology and times have changed for motor oils.

Thanks again.

 

I don't know the type/brand of the oil. But improper engine or head design can cause oils sludge build up. Case in point the v-6 toyota motor... don't know the model of the motor..

 

Why should I trust you when you cant even spell discolored and youre a mechanic?

 

For the same reason you can't spell "youre" you're. Don't be so silly im giving advice if you don't want to beleve the truth then up to you.

 

Um....OK. Unnecessary comment from stevenn adding to what turned into a minimally inflamed discussion that had already resolved itself. Calm down, please, everyone.

 

I think RTR is right , they guy is just tring to give u guys some advice to keep your cars running at maximum performance! The dlr said to cahange the tranny fluid in my cl every 60k when i bought it and my tranny went at 30K, then when i got my new tranny he said 30K then 35 k later anouther tranny went 5k after atf was changed, now they say do it every 15k, so I do a 3x3 fluh every 15 k and my tranny is running nice with 100k on this tranny! So i would not go buy what the dlrs say cuz they dont know half the time!
They didnt even know my car had a external tranny filter untill I gave them the part#!
I was watching a car show forgot which one but the flushed the oil, atf, and rear diff fluid with sythetic and dynoed it b4 and after the fluid change and they gained like 8-9 HP , I think 9HP is noticable, 3% increase but noticable!

Changed the fluid b4 the car tells you to will not hurt it , it can just help it, why get on his case for tring to add his 2 cents?

 

Am I gonna gain 9hp from flushing all my fluids next time and then adding this synthetic stuff?