TL Ecu swap to 06 RL possible?
04-22-2015, 09:58 PM
#1
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TL Ecu swap to 06 RL possible?
Hey guys, decided that im going to mod my kb1 instead of buying a new car, at first i wanted to try to replace my current j35a8 with the TL type-s one because it has the ecu etc but realized that'll be a hassle because the RL is AWD and all that jazz. My bud recommended just buying an auto TL or TL type-S ECU instead but i havent found anything online that gives me a 100% confirmation that'll work without any issues. Anyone know if its possible or any suggestions?
I have an 06 Acura RL tech package, possibly want to rebuild the motor, cams or exhaust, and maybe turbo if its truly possible
I have an 06 Acura RL tech package, possibly want to rebuild the motor, cams or exhaust, and maybe turbo if its truly possible
04-23-2015, 08:32 AM
#2
Senior Moderator
No one has done it. I think the AWD will affect the ECU more than the engine. The engine just spins. Besides, the J35A8 is the best J35 built. Why would you change that?
Turbos have been done. A supercharger has been done too, so forced induction isn't a problem. Many (except Heavy
) think the ECU will adapt to improvements.
Turbos have been done. A supercharger has been done too, so forced induction isn't a problem. Many (except Heavy
) think the ECU will adapt to improvements.
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tyrenith548 (04-28-2015)
04-28-2015, 06:59 AM
#4
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Yeah i hear what you're saying and i would want to change it because i have 205k+ on the original motor and i want to replace it with the same or rebuild it if im better off that way....i just figured the tl type s motor with less miles since its the same and has the ecu but if the ecu wont work then who cares....i just like my RL so much and its different and want to mod it, not trying to make a race car but i would love to own a modded RL 
lol. I just want looks, sound, and speed or quick response to the highest limit of that motor/car without breaking it XD
lol. I just want looks, sound, and speed or quick response to the highest limit of that motor/car without breaking it XD
04-28-2015, 07:03 AM
#6
p.s. we the TL owners rebuild the TL engines with RL parts because the RL parts are IN EVERY WAY better.
if there's nothing wrong with your engine with 205k miles, why fuck with it?
I suspect you're a noobie with engines and cars all together. engines dont die at 200k miles, unless you're just not taking care of it.
are you taking care of it?
oil changes and fixing things that break are key to long living engines.
these J-series engines WILL last for more than 500,000 miles
if there's nothing wrong with your engine with 205k miles, why fuck with it?
I suspect you're a noobie with engines and cars all together. engines dont die at 200k miles, unless you're just not taking care of it.
are you taking care of it?
oil changes and fixing things that break are key to long living engines.
these J-series engines WILL last for more than 500,000 miles
04-28-2015, 07:23 AM
#7
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04-28-2015, 07:30 AM
#9
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p.s. we the TL owners rebuild the TL engines with RL parts because the RL parts are IN EVERY WAY better.
if there's nothing wrong with your engine with 205k miles, why fuck with it?
I suspect you're a noobie with engines and cars all together. engines dont die at 200k miles, unless you're just not taking care of it.
are you taking care of it?
oil changes and fixing things that break are key to long living engines.
these J-series engines WILL last for more than 500,000 miles
if there's nothing wrong with your engine with 205k miles, why fuck with it?
I suspect you're a noobie with engines and cars all together. engines dont die at 200k miles, unless you're just not taking care of it.
are you taking care of it?
oil changes and fixing things that break are key to long living engines.
these J-series engines WILL last for more than 500,000 miles
Yeah i heard that about TL owners which is dope and i believe it but i thought rebuilding it would be more beneficial especially if im trying to keep it for awhile? Yeah i am a noobie to engines but im learning and i know it wont die at a specific mileage but it has a higher chance because of age and the amount of miles on it wouldnt you think J?
Yeah i am taking care of it, mobil one syn changes every 3k etc
04-28-2015, 07:31 AM
#10
^nope.
take care of it, and it will last a VERY long time.
every 3k is a little overkill and a waste of your $$, try 6k mile oil change intervals.
oil provides lubricity to the engine. so, as long as you keep it filled with oil, the engine WONT wear as much as you're thinking.
you keep saying you want to rebuild it, but WHY? there is no need to, as all the components inside will look like new.
things that will fuck up an engine that requires an engine rebuild
- starve it of oil
- over heat it.
there are other conditions but these are the TWO MAIN reasons why engines die.
take care of it, and it will last a VERY long time.
every 3k is a little overkill and a waste of your $$, try 6k mile oil change intervals.
oil provides lubricity to the engine. so, as long as you keep it filled with oil, the engine WONT wear as much as you're thinking.
you keep saying you want to rebuild it, but WHY? there is no need to, as all the components inside will look like new.
things that will fuck up an engine that requires an engine rebuild
- starve it of oil
- over heat it.
there are other conditions but these are the TWO MAIN reasons why engines die.
Last edited by justnspace; 04-28-2015 at 07:35 AM.
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tyrenith548 (04-28-2015)
04-28-2015, 07:32 AM
#11
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Thread Starter
p.s. we the TL owners rebuild the TL engines with RL parts because the RL parts are IN EVERY WAY better.
if there's nothing wrong with your engine with 205k miles, why fuck with it?
I suspect you're a noobie with engines and cars all together. engines dont die at 200k miles, unless you're just not taking care of it.
are you taking care of it?
oil changes and fixing things that break are key to long living engines.
these J-series engines WILL last for more than 500,000 miles
if there's nothing wrong with your engine with 205k miles, why fuck with it?
I suspect you're a noobie with engines and cars all together. engines dont die at 200k miles, unless you're just not taking care of it.
are you taking care of it?
oil changes and fixing things that break are key to long living engines.
these J-series engines WILL last for more than 500,000 miles
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justnspace (04-28-2015)
04-28-2015, 07:58 AM
#12
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Thread Starter
Thank you for that information, i was under the assumption that rebuilding an engine would increase performance(not speed) and be healthier for another xx amount of miles and years especially if you would want to install modifications.....intake, exhaust, headers and possible cams etc. Im not looking to try to make a racecar out of the RL but i definitely want to modify it and see what my car could be....maybe a list of appropriate mods would be suffice, builds people have done that are worth the gains etc
04-28-2015, 08:22 AM
#13
Thank you for that information, i was under the assumption that rebuilding an engine would increase performance(not speed) and be healthier for another xx amount of miles and years especially if you would want to install modifications.....intake, exhaust, headers and possible cams etc. Im not looking to try to make a racecar out of the RL but i definitely want to modify it and see what my car could be....maybe a list of appropriate mods would be suffice, builds people have done that are worth the gains etc
on the TL side; we have done just that. we tore out the insides of the engine and replaced it with aftermarket components which include stronger pistons, stronger valves, etc. etc.
these are ADVANCED MODS that require engine knowledge and can cost up to $10,000.
since the RL's engine components are stronger than the TL's, to save money we just swap pistons and cams and heads from the RL. which is basically free, because we can find used RL engines EVERY WHERE.
we call these HOTROD mods, because basically Hotrodders and advanced engine builders do these kinds of mods.
you want the beginners mods or the easy bolt on mods, where you can easily bolt on mods.
you can start with the exhaust.
the RL has three parts of the exhaust that bolt on and off.
the exhaust flows from out the engine and into the primary catalytic converters.
then, the exhaust gasses flow from the primary catalytic converters into the Jpipe. (it's a pipe that is shaped like a J)
then from the J-pipe, the exhaust gasses flow into the catback, or the mufflers and out the tail pipes.
the easiest exhaust piece to replace is the jpipe.
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tyrenith548 (04-28-2015)
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tyrenith548 (04-28-2015)
04-28-2015, 08:25 AM
#15
Originally Posted by Richie v6 
Here is a quick RV6 crash course, this is rough draft that will eventually be added to the webpage. You can get more details on the rv6 website www.rv6-p.com
The order of exhaust components.
Heads (engine) > precats > Jpipe > 3rd cat > exhaust
Jpipe+3rd cat delete
The RV6 V3 jpipe is our latest design and has the best gains due to its 2.25" long runner design. It replaces both the factory jpipe and 3rd cat in one piece. No check engine lights are triggered since there are no sensors on the 3rd cat. It is recommended that you get the jpipe before PCDs or HFPCs.
Pros:
Good mid and high range gains
Replaces factory jpipe and 3rd cat in open piece
Bolts up no modifications needed
No obvious place for a 3rd cat.
Cons:
May not pass visual inspection in some states.
Precat Deletes
There are current 2 RV6 options for a precat replacement. These options are effective because Honda used a very restrictive precat design. They are made with stamped sheet metal to reduce cost and have a small 1.75" out.
Precat deletes or PCDs replace the factory precats with a straight pipe using smooth flowing castings a 2.25” outlet. Precat deletes include special adapters for the O2 sensors and do not throw a check engine light.
Pros:
Maximum performance gains
Low cost compared HFPCs
Cons:
Raspy exhaust
Exhaust smell
May not pass visual inspection
Requires an extra resonator for rasp free operation
Highflow precats
High flow precats or HFPCs replaces the factory precats with high flow catalytic converters. They offer the best of compromise between performance and daily drivability. They are also paired with our smooth flowing castings 2.25” castings.
Pros:
No rasp
No exhaust smell
May pass visual inspection
Cons:
More expensive then PCDs
Slightly less power gains compared to PCDs
Here is a quick RV6 crash course, this is rough draft that will eventually be added to the webpage. You can get more details on the rv6 website www.rv6-p.com
The order of exhaust components.
Heads (engine) > precats > Jpipe > 3rd cat > exhaust
Jpipe+3rd cat delete
The RV6 V3 jpipe is our latest design and has the best gains due to its 2.25" long runner design. It replaces both the factory jpipe and 3rd cat in one piece. No check engine lights are triggered since there are no sensors on the 3rd cat. It is recommended that you get the jpipe before PCDs or HFPCs.
Pros:
Good mid and high range gains
Replaces factory jpipe and 3rd cat in open piece
Bolts up no modifications needed
No obvious place for a 3rd cat.
Cons:
May not pass visual inspection in some states.
Precat Deletes
There are current 2 RV6 options for a precat replacement. These options are effective because Honda used a very restrictive precat design. They are made with stamped sheet metal to reduce cost and have a small 1.75" out.
Precat deletes or PCDs replace the factory precats with a straight pipe using smooth flowing castings a 2.25” outlet. Precat deletes include special adapters for the O2 sensors and do not throw a check engine light.
Pros:
Maximum performance gains
Low cost compared HFPCs
Cons:
Raspy exhaust
Exhaust smell
May not pass visual inspection
Requires an extra resonator for rasp free operation
Highflow precats
High flow precats or HFPCs replaces the factory precats with high flow catalytic converters. They offer the best of compromise between performance and daily drivability. They are also paired with our smooth flowing castings 2.25” castings.
Pros:
No rasp
No exhaust smell
May pass visual inspection
Cons:
More expensive then PCDs
Slightly less power gains compared to PCDs
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tyrenith548 (04-28-2015)
04-28-2015, 09:17 AM
#16
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Thread Starter
Once again thank you J this is very good info that i need, also learning and understanding this stuff more as we go so killing 2 birds with one stone, thanks alot. I've seen this company come up alot when regarding our cars so im sure theyre good quality and one of the few that still make stuff for it especially if youre recommending them. Forgot to mention that i do have a Takeda SRI which is awesome for our cars
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justnspace (04-28-2015)
04-28-2015, 09:25 AM
#17
a short ram intake is awesome for sound, but not for anything else.
in fact it loses HP.
we have something called an Air Intake temperature sensor. this sensor is critical for making POWER!
when the sensor sees hot temperature, it TELLS the ECU to scale down power.
the short ram intake is sucking up ALL of the engines hot air at idle, which in turns TELLS the ECU to scale down power.
in fact it loses HP.
we have something called an Air Intake temperature sensor. this sensor is critical for making POWER!
when the sensor sees hot temperature, it TELLS the ECU to scale down power.
the short ram intake is sucking up ALL of the engines hot air at idle, which in turns TELLS the ECU to scale down power.
04-28-2015, 09:33 AM
#18
Advanced
Thread Starter
Yeah i was told that awhile back and yes it does sound amazing and i love it, but you're saying its worth it to replace the SRI with an CAI? i could understand if i had the stock one on and going CAI would but i mean how much loss is an SRI compared to a CAI
04-28-2015, 09:44 AM
#20
Hey all. I've been a bit of a threadstarter lately but wanted to share some experiments I've ran lately on air intake temps (AIT's). I recently picked up a Garmin which monitors AIT's and have dinked around with various configurations to lower them as much as possible. For the most part, they're consistent with what's been said here already but with a few caveats.
First, I've noticed that the TL is especially sensitive to AIT's. Yes, I know this is already well established around here. But there are several videos and threads discussing the real power output effects of AIT's with some of them stating that it's not as big a deal as some think. With some cars, this may be true. But with the nature of the j-series engines (aggressive timing, compression ratio, etc.) AIT's are a pretty big deal and can significantly affect power output.
My current setup is as follows: Cheapo eBay CAI w/ AEM dryflow filter. Outlaw spacer kit (intake manifold and throttle body). UCM - Ultimate cooling mod.
Short Ram vs. Cold Air Intake - Using a cheapo eBay CAI and an AEM dryflow filter, my AIT's are between 8-20F higher than ambient temps as recorded on the MID. Typical is 10-15F higher with 20F being more common when idling for over a minute. This is pretty consistent regardless of ambient temp (ie. Ambient temp 70F, I'll see 80-85F IAT. Ambient temp 100F, I'll see 110-115F IAT). I've rarely gone over 20F above ambient. For example - it was 95F outside according to the MID about a week ago. The highest AIT I got was 114F when in line at the ATM for about two minutes.
My CAI can convert into a short ram. Since I'm all about weight loss, I figured I'd remove the lower pipe and give this a try. The filter was at the far right side of the engine bay behind the battery. I figured I'd get a little higher temps since some of the air would be from the engine bay. However, there's a pretty big area that exposes this part of the bay to outside air so I expected AIT's to be maybe 25-30F above ambient. I was wrong. Average AIT's were around 45-50F above ambient with it peaking at nearly 60F . It was 65F outside and my AIT's were hovering between 110-125F. My car probably thought it was 95F outside when it was a nice cool morning. The afternoon was even worse. 85F or so. AIT's? Probably the highest the car's ever seen - 135-145F. Power loss wasn't just significant, it was depressing. You'd think two or three of the cylinders were misfiring, or that I was towing a trailer. But I wanted to confirm my findings so I left it on for another day. Next day? Same thing. CAI went right back on and temps returned back to normal. Moral of the story - Short Ram is a boatload of fail.
CAI insulation - I fabricated a CAI insulator similar to Tim's in this thread: Insulating your CAI? - AcuraZine Community
I had some of the Styrofoam that he used wrapped the home depot insulation over it. I used metal tape like his. Mine didn't look as good but I feel it's probably the same as far as effectiveness . What I've noticed is that idle AIT's seem to have decreased a bit, maybe 2-3F. And that it takes longer for heatsoak to hit, where AIT's are a consistent 10-15F above ambient rather than 5-8F like in the first several minutes of driving. But after heatsoak hits, it's about the same. AIT's have decreased a negligible amount after heatsoak kicks in. It delays heatsoak a bit but in the end it's the same. Maybe 1-2F reduction after heatsoak. I'll leave it on because it's light and certainly doesn't hurt. But I wouldn't spend a ton of time or money on this.
Outlaw TB and IM spaces - I was very excited to install my outlaw spacers. However, I have noticed almost no change to AIT's
. I almost wonder if I did it wrong, though you can't really screw it up. I think that the UCM might negate the benefit of the spacers by keeping a constant flow of air hovering above the IM, therefore eliminating a lot of the heat that would otherwise heatsoak it. Before I ever installed the spacers I noticed what Tim (inaccurate) said: That the intake manifold was quite hot after driving, to the point that touching it for more than a second or two would result in a burn. But with the UCM, it was cool enough to the touch to place your hand on it. Either way, negligible reduction in AIT's.
Anyway, I hope this info is helpful to someone interested in reducing air intake temperatures. If anyone has further ideas to close my 10-15F gap, I'm all ears.
But at this point, I'm pretty happy with it.
First, I've noticed that the TL is especially sensitive to AIT's. Yes, I know this is already well established around here. But there are several videos and threads discussing the real power output effects of AIT's with some of them stating that it's not as big a deal as some think. With some cars, this may be true. But with the nature of the j-series engines (aggressive timing, compression ratio, etc.) AIT's are a pretty big deal and can significantly affect power output.
My current setup is as follows: Cheapo eBay CAI w/ AEM dryflow filter. Outlaw spacer kit (intake manifold and throttle body). UCM - Ultimate cooling mod.
Short Ram vs. Cold Air Intake - Using a cheapo eBay CAI and an AEM dryflow filter, my AIT's are between 8-20F higher than ambient temps as recorded on the MID. Typical is 10-15F higher with 20F being more common when idling for over a minute. This is pretty consistent regardless of ambient temp (ie. Ambient temp 70F, I'll see 80-85F IAT. Ambient temp 100F, I'll see 110-115F IAT). I've rarely gone over 20F above ambient. For example - it was 95F outside according to the MID about a week ago. The highest AIT I got was 114F when in line at the ATM for about two minutes.
My CAI can convert into a short ram. Since I'm all about weight loss, I figured I'd remove the lower pipe and give this a try. The filter was at the far right side of the engine bay behind the battery. I figured I'd get a little higher temps since some of the air would be from the engine bay. However, there's a pretty big area that exposes this part of the bay to outside air so I expected AIT's to be maybe 25-30F above ambient. I was wrong. Average AIT's were around 45-50F above ambient with it peaking at nearly 60F . It was 65F outside and my AIT's were hovering between 110-125F. My car probably thought it was 95F outside when it was a nice cool morning. The afternoon was even worse. 85F or so. AIT's? Probably the highest the car's ever seen - 135-145F. Power loss wasn't just significant, it was depressing. You'd think two or three of the cylinders were misfiring, or that I was towing a trailer. But I wanted to confirm my findings so I left it on for another day. Next day? Same thing. CAI went right back on and temps returned back to normal. Moral of the story - Short Ram is a boatload of fail.
CAI insulation - I fabricated a CAI insulator similar to Tim's in this thread: Insulating your CAI? - AcuraZine Community
I had some of the Styrofoam that he used wrapped the home depot insulation over it. I used metal tape like his. Mine didn't look as good but I feel it's probably the same as far as effectiveness . What I've noticed is that idle AIT's seem to have decreased a bit, maybe 2-3F. And that it takes longer for heatsoak to hit, where AIT's are a consistent 10-15F above ambient rather than 5-8F like in the first several minutes of driving. But after heatsoak hits, it's about the same. AIT's have decreased a negligible amount after heatsoak kicks in. It delays heatsoak a bit but in the end it's the same. Maybe 1-2F reduction after heatsoak. I'll leave it on because it's light and certainly doesn't hurt. But I wouldn't spend a ton of time or money on this.
Outlaw TB and IM spaces - I was very excited to install my outlaw spacers. However, I have noticed almost no change to AIT's
. I almost wonder if I did it wrong, though you can't really screw it up. I think that the UCM might negate the benefit of the spacers by keeping a constant flow of air hovering above the IM, therefore eliminating a lot of the heat that would otherwise heatsoak it. Before I ever installed the spacers I noticed what Tim (inaccurate) said: That the intake manifold was quite hot after driving, to the point that touching it for more than a second or two would result in a burn. But with the UCM, it was cool enough to the touch to place your hand on it. Either way, negligible reduction in AIT's. Anyway, I hope this info is helpful to someone interested in reducing air intake temperatures. If anyone has further ideas to close my 10-15F gap, I'm all ears.
But at this point, I'm pretty happy with it.
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justnspace (04-28-2015)
04-28-2015, 11:20 AM
#23
Senior Moderator
Please tell me this isn't true.
3k mile oil changes only exist in the retirement home. The J35 was designed to run conventional oil for 7k mile intervals. True synthetic oil will extend that to 10-14k miles. If you are indeed changing oil every 3k in the RL, you are wasting a lot of money and time.
3k mile oil changes only exist in the retirement home. The J35 was designed to run conventional oil for 7k mile intervals. True synthetic oil will extend that to 10-14k miles. If you are indeed changing oil every 3k in the RL, you are wasting a lot of money and time.
04-28-2015, 03:18 PM
#24
I had intake, Rv6 PCD and Jpipe, and lightweight pulley on my RL and it made it quicker but the car is heavy as hell. Reducing it's weight will make it significantly faster than any of the mods I added. Lightweight wheels will help as well as reducing some of the dampening material (the car wont be as plush and comfy any more however) Also when you start making more power, other wear items will start to fail. I suggest beefing those up as well. First parts that come to mind are the motor mounts which suck on stock power 
.
One more thing, the ECU is also a limiter when it comes to power for this car. If you want to make it faster quickly and reliably I suggest a 75 shot
.One more thing, the ECU is also a limiter when it comes to power for this car. If you want to make it faster quickly and reliably I suggest a 75 shot
Last edited by EL19; 04-28-2015 at 03:29 PM.
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EL19 (04-30-2015)
04-29-2015, 09:22 PM
#26
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Thread Starter
I had intake, Rv6 PCD and Jpipe, and lightweight pulley on my RL and it made it quicker but the car is heavy as hell. Reducing it's weight will make it significantly faster than any of the mods I added. Lightweight wheels will help as well as reducing some of the dampening material (the car wont be as plush and comfy any more however) Also when you start making more power, other wear items will start to fail. I suggest beefing those up as well. First parts that come to mind are the motor mounts which suck on stock power .
One more thing, the ECU is also a limiter when it comes to power for this car. If you want to make it faster quickly and reliably I suggest a 75 shot
.One more thing, the ECU is also a limiter when it comes to power for this car. If you want to make it faster quickly and reliably I suggest a 75 shot
04-30-2015, 09:11 AM
#28
Yea the header is cast into the heads, with catalytic converters coming directly off called pre cats. So the RL's version of an aftermarket header is the two pieces you get from RV6 (pre cat delete and downpipe also called a jpipe) The V3 jpipe should be on the site, I believe for the RL its the V2 though. 2nd Gen (05-08)
05-01-2015, 07:18 AM
#30
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Thread Starter
Awesome just making sure I wasn't missing anything lol. I like the magna flow mufflers/tip idea but I'm assuming there's no other manufacturer that makes those for the kb1 anymore ? Aem the only decent brand that makes an CAI for our car as well?
05-01-2015, 10:05 PM
#32
Advanced
Thread Starter
Wow really? Thats odd.....wouldn't have thought that you guys would recommend the oem intake > after market stuff...i know that aftermarket isnt always better but never thought that oem would really be picked over an aftermarket part
05-04-2015, 10:10 AM
#33
Senior Moderator
The stock intake is a CAI. It routes from the filter box, under the battery, and up to the edge of the hood/headlight assembly. The only flaw, IMHO, is the routing under the battery. The longer the tube and the more corners, the more turbulence you will get in the air flow. There is quite a bit of space between the battery and the fender. I always wanted to try and reroute the tube behind the battery instead of underneath, but I didn't get the chance.
The AEM CAI will likely help cut down turbulence and improve flow a little, but the fact that it is down by the tire and the road tells me that you will actually be getting hotter air than the stock setup gives. It's a trade off instead of a direct gain.
The AEM CAI will likely help cut down turbulence and improve flow a little, but the fact that it is down by the tire and the road tells me that you will actually be getting hotter air than the stock setup gives. It's a trade off instead of a direct gain.
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05-04-2015, 10:14 AM
#34
like, 007spy said, the factory intake is already a cold air intake system.
the Honda engineers worked pretty hard to maximize gains (hp) while also keeping down NVH(Noise, Vibration, Harshness) levels.
also, the stock air filter OUTFLOWS the throttle body at WOT.(wide open throttle)
boring the throttle body to a wider diameter while adding a 4 inch diameter intake all around like the airaid build it yourself kit will bring in more gains than an AEM intake.
https://www.airaid.com/U-Build-It_intake_systems.aspx
http://www.maxbore.com/
the Honda engineers worked pretty hard to maximize gains (hp) while also keeping down NVH(Noise, Vibration, Harshness) levels.
also, the stock air filter OUTFLOWS the throttle body at WOT.(wide open throttle)
boring the throttle body to a wider diameter while adding a 4 inch diameter intake all around like the airaid build it yourself kit will bring in more gains than an AEM intake.
https://www.airaid.com/U-Build-It_intake_systems.aspx
http://www.maxbore.com/
Last edited by justnspace; 05-04-2015 at 10:18 AM.
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