Strange noise at startup when cold
I recently got my oil changed at an independent honda/Acura specialist and ever since then when I start the car, I hear somewhat of a thrashing sound as if there is low oil. I've heard the noise before in older 4 cyl engines but never in my RL.
I've checked the oil numerous times before starting the car (after 4 hours sitting) and again after starting the car, letting it run until the sound goes away and then turning off the engine. In all cases, the oil level is just fine.
The other bizarre thing is that the noise goes away after about 1 minute. There is no lag in the engine or any other sign that the noise existed. Only during startup in the cold.
The only thing I can think of is that a lower density oil was used during the change, but I can't imagine that would be the cause. Any other suggestions?
I've checked the oil numerous times before starting the car (after 4 hours sitting) and again after starting the car, letting it run until the sound goes away and then turning off the engine. In all cases, the oil level is just fine.
The other bizarre thing is that the noise goes away after about 1 minute. There is no lag in the engine or any other sign that the noise existed. Only during startup in the cold.
The only thing I can think of is that a lower density oil was used during the change, but I can't imagine that would be the cause. Any other suggestions?
Hmmm, my first thought is take it back immediately before you put to many miles on it.
They could have used a heavier weight oil causing it to take longer to make its way around the engine at start up.
They could have used a heavier weight oil causing it to take longer to make its way around the engine at start up.
Even though the sound goes away within a minute of startup? the problem is that once the engine is warm I can't replicate the noise.
Right, there is a "winter" weight on oil... hence the "w" in 10w40
If they used a heavier weight then the oil would take longer to circulate from the pan into the engine on a cold start up.
Just a hunch from a guy bored at work.
If they used a heavier weight then the oil would take longer to circulate from the pan into the engine on a cold start up.
Just a hunch from a guy bored at work.
Heavy is correct about the winter weight. The rating is a viscosity measurement and determines how well the oil can flow at a certain temperature. The lower the rating the better it flows at cold. The higher the rating, the more abuse it can take a hot before breaking down. The #w-# signifies the overall range the oil is guaranteed for.
The most crucial part of oil and avoiding major engine wear is the viscosity at cold since cooling systems almost always keep the temperature away from the dangerous hot regions. If you do indeed have a too high winter rated oil, it could be too cold to flow. They usually print the oil used on the reciept. Check that first. Our cars are designs for a 5w rating. The second number is less important.
Can you describe the sound?
The most crucial part of oil and avoiding major engine wear is the viscosity at cold since cooling systems almost always keep the temperature away from the dangerous hot regions. If you do indeed have a too high winter rated oil, it could be too cold to flow. They usually print the oil used on the reciept. Check that first. Our cars are designs for a 5w rating. The second number is less important.
Can you describe the sound?
5w-20 should be good all year around. Did he use bulk oil from the drum?. Mostly the drum oil is recycled oil, cheaper to buy and more profit for the shop. Bad for the engines and customers in the long run.
Heavy is correct about the winter weight. The rating is a viscosity measurement and determines how well the oil can flow at a certain temperature. The lower the rating the better it flows at cold. The higher the rating, the more abuse it can take a hot before breaking down. The #w-# signifies the overall range the oil is guaranteed for.
The most crucial part of oil and avoiding major engine wear is the viscosity at cold since cooling systems almost always keep the temperature away from the dangerous hot regions. If you do indeed have a too high winter rated oil, it could be too cold to flow. They usually print the oil used on the reciept. Check that first. Our cars are designs for a 5w rating. The second number is less important.
Can you describe the sound?
The most crucial part of oil and avoiding major engine wear is the viscosity at cold since cooling systems almost always keep the temperature away from the dangerous hot regions. If you do indeed have a too high winter rated oil, it could be too cold to flow. They usually print the oil used on the reciept. Check that first. Our cars are designs for a 5w rating. The second number is less important.
Can you describe the sound?
I had this work done about 2 weeks ago and have misplaced the receipt. Would the recommendation be to just go ahead and take it to my honda dealer to have them change the oil there? I was just trying to give a local shop some business...
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This i'm not sure of, but I did notice that the color of the oil that was just changed was not as golden clear as the Oil i remembered from when i did the changes myself. I'm wondering if this could have been a factor too...
If there is any doubt to the condition, quality, or type of oil used, I would change the oil before starting the car again if possible, or at least start it when it is above 40 degrees outside. While your efforts to boost local business is admirable and necessary for a local economy, I have heard too many horror stories of incapable work. I go as far to say that I don't trust a dealer. As a result, I do all of my fluids myself.
It sucks that you even have to question what to do next, but if there is no one you can trust to do it, take it to a Honda or Acura dealer.
It sucks that you even have to question what to do next, but if there is no one you can trust to do it, take it to a Honda or Acura dealer.
If you can turn a wrench doing it yourself is cake. if not take your own oil with you and ask for the bottles back or watch the process...
Either way they owe you a fix on this issue.
Either way they owe you a fix on this issue.
I have an 09 RL that does the same thing. Cold start up, it sort of sounds like a diesel or a V8 engine. But it quiets down afterwards. I recently changed to 5W-20 synthetic and the noise goes away faster. I think the valves are just cold. TO NOTE: I only hear this outside of the car.
IMO, it sounds normal. I like the sound
IMO, it sounds normal. I like the sound
Well after having it changed at my local honda dealer (nearest Acura dealer is 27miles away), the sound is gone. Cheap oil was clearly the problem and needless to say I won't be back to that shop.
Thanks to all as usual!
@hondaxacura - Mine sounded more like a 4 banger lol... was NOT cool haha
Thanks to all as usual!
@hondaxacura - Mine sounded more like a 4 banger lol... was NOT cool haha
Let me chime in here. I don't think that it was the oil so much as it was the oil filter. The cheapie places use their own oil filter which is built to cost and not to performance. There is a HUGE difference. I have heard of cheapie oil filters disintegrating internally and pumping paper into the engine plugging oil passages.
I only use Mobil 1 or Honda filters and nothing else. My oil is 10-30 or 5-20 depending upon the time of the year.
I only use Mobil 1 or Honda filters and nothing else. My oil is 10-30 or 5-20 depending upon the time of the year.
Let me chime in here. I don't think that it was the oil so much as it was the oil filter. The cheapie places use their own oil filter which is built to cost and not to performance. There is a HUGE difference. I have heard of cheapie oil filters disintegrating internally and pumping paper into the engine plugging oil passages.
I only use Mobil 1 or Honda filters and nothing else. My oil is 10-30 or 5-20 depending upon the time of the year.
I only use Mobil 1 or Honda filters and nothing else. My oil is 10-30 or 5-20 depending upon the time of the year.
I know for sure the filter and oil were changed to honda specs. I'm praying it's not what you're describing above, but are there any other explanations I could research before going to the acura dealer? The problem is that as soon as the engine is warm the sounds go away and it sounds perfect... That's the ONLY reason I'm not alarmed with this issue, I just don't understand what could possibly be causing the sound at the first start up of the day.
I'm too lazy to check this myself, but I'd double-check on whether 10-30 is one of the factory recommendations for the RL.
Given that you're in California, it probably won't get cold enough to come back and bite you in the shorts. But after reading up on BobIsTheOilGuy, I've become a convert to using 0-20 full synthetic year-round.
It's exactly like this thread said: most engine wear occurs right at startup. Getting the oil through the engine as quickly as possible is the key.
Given that you're in California, it probably won't get cold enough to come back and bite you in the shorts. But after reading up on BobIsTheOilGuy, I've become a convert to using 0-20 full synthetic year-round.
It's exactly like this thread said: most engine wear occurs right at startup. Getting the oil through the engine as quickly as possible is the key.
There are no hydraulic lifters to pump up on this car. If you are hearing valve train noise, changing the viscosity is not going to help. Checking the lash is a maintanence item, not a fun one, but if you are hearing it, it needs to be done.
This may have taken the back burner as I have to buy a new set of tires... my 20's have got to go.... grrrr
I do not think anyone has mentioned it but I would also check the tensioner. You tend to hear them more at startup but if you allow it to continue you will always hear it. You can go on you tube and listen to what a bad one sounds like. I hope this helps.
Well i'll be damned... I've never heard of this, but it sounds alot like this but doesn't last as long as the videos I saw. I see that the fix for it is quite expensive... but is it a true statement that as along as you don't get oil burn off that it's ok to just ignore?
Like i said, it only happens when I start the car the first time of the day. Otherwise it sounds fine. Never had the issue prior to the oil change... I'm wondering now if the cheaper oil caused it? No clue...
-Chad
Like i said, it only happens when I start the car the first time of the day. Otherwise it sounds fine. Never had the issue prior to the oil change... I'm wondering now if the cheaper oil caused it? No clue...
-Chad
^uh oh! My s2000 makes that noise for 1-2 sec while starting cold, never a full min a 20 sec. It always went away quickly.. However I did end up replacing that engine due to low compression. Piston rings were fried! I didn't push it that hard, after pulling the engine I realized it too was not the orig engine or tranny! I was Pissed! But all is well now! Good luck
By the way im running 5/30 royal purple, which I've always always run in all my vehicles, vtec is smother and overall the engines just feel more responsive!
By the way im running 5/30 royal purple, which I've always always run in all my vehicles, vtec is smother and overall the engines just feel more responsive!
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