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So, I'm getting shaking in the steering wheel when I'm driving around 65 ish. I've had the wheels and tires balanced several times. I've replaced the following:
Hubs - left and right
Upper and lower control arms - left and right
Inner and outer tie rod ends - left and right
Axles - left and right
Calipers, rotors and pads - left and right
What is the lords name is causing the shaking. One thing I can think of is the axle shafts are after market and don't have the balancing doughnut (not sure what it's called) on either axle. I suppose the TRE's could be bad but they feel solid. I'm at a loss. Any suggestions?
See if you have increased shaking on high way exits around 50mph. Or when high way curves. U sure wheel bearings were replaced? I have the same issue. In process of wheel bearing replacement. All 4
See if you have increased shaking on high way exits around 50mph. Or when high way curves. U sure wheel bearings were replaced? I have the same issue. In process of wheel bearing replacement. All 4
hubs are brand new, I installed them. Car is solid in the corners.
What brand of new axles did you install? I ask because I had shaking on my TL and replaced the axles in May of 2018 with new Duralast axles; the shaking was reduced compared to the OEM axles with over 130,000 miles on them, but there was still annoying levels of vibration. A month ago I threw my almost new set of Duralast axles in the trash and replaced them with a set of relatively inexpensive APWI axles; problem solved.
What brand of new axles did you install? I ask because I had shaking on my TL and replaced the axles in May of 2018 with new Duralast axles; the shaking was reduced compared to the OEM axles with over 130,000 miles on them, but there was still annoying levels of vibration. A month ago I threw my almost new set of Duralast axles in the trash and replaced them with a set of relatively inexpensive APWI axles; problem solved.
Both are from Rockauto, the drivers side is SURTRACK/TRAKMOTIVE and passenger side is APWI.
The pass side OEM had some type of balancer on it and these axles don't have that, I'm wondering if the axles are the problem. The shaking is in the steering wheel, above 60 and when braking. I'm beyond frustrated with what it might be.
If the shimmy in the steering wheel happens when braking, then axles aren't the issue; that would be tied to the brakes themselves. A shimmy above 60, but not associated with acceleration is probably an issue with tire balance, or failing that, a bad tire.
If the shimmy in the steering wheel happens when braking, then axles aren't the issue; that would be tied to the brakes themselves. A shimmy above 60, but not associated with acceleration is probably an issue with tire balance, or failing that, a bad tire.
Calipers, Rotors and Pads are brand new - actually this is the 3rd set of brakes because I thought it was the brakes as well. I can't measure the quality of tire myself so I've had to rely on the tire store and take their word that the tires are good, the wheels are good and everything is in balance.
However, I do understand what you are saying because that's where my first thought went hence replacing the brakes more than once (all under warranty, I'm not just throwing money at it).
Brand new does not mean problem free. Then there is the issue with the tires; just because a tire is new and the wheel is in balance does not mean there will be no shimmy. The wheel may be damaged or the tire may have a slipped belt; both will cause a shimmy.
Brand new does not mean problem free. Then there is the issue with the tires; just because a tire is new and the wheel is in balance does not mean there will be no shimmy. The wheel may be damaged or the tire may have a slipped belt; both will cause a shimmy.
I'll go back again and have it checked out. Can't hurt.
Well I had exact same issue
The cause was a damaged rear tire. Or poorly balanced.
But they used Hunter balancing machine.
And I saw "ok" sign on the machine when they balanced. Didn't see an obvious bump on the tire when rotating it on the hub
My tires are super worn though. U can see structural threads on the sides. Rim seemed to be straight too. Rotated rim next to a wrench I put close to the side of the rim. Wrench was laying on a brick. Not in my hand
So, one other thought. I had an alignment done and soon after I realized the driver hub was bad. I never went back in for an updated alignment, just eye-balling it it looks like the tow is out a little bit, taking a crude measurement I looks like the distance between the front of the wheel/tire is 1/2" wider than the rear of the tire/wheel. Would that cause the shimmy?
I doubt. But I think it's a lot. 1/2” is a lot. I make front as close to 0 toe as possible.
Your steering will be very lively and easy with such to out
I doubt. But I think it's a lot. 1/2” is a lot. I make front as close to 0 toe as possible.
Your steering will be very lively and easy with such to out
I'll get it looked at, right now I'm not ruling anything out.. this has been such a headache.
You have stock rims or aftermarket ones? if aftermarket the issue could be with the hubcentric rings or require them, also the seat on the lug nuts could be an issue also.
Solved.
I replaced the axles with ones that have the dynamic damper on them and that fixed my problems. No more shimmy. Rockauto is even taking back the old axles! They didn't have what I needed so I ordered them through Partsgeek.com. I've been trying to find this problem for 7 months now, taken it to the dealership twice and another mechanic once. Sucks that I'm the one to figure it out. sheesh.
Anyway, if you replace your axles, based on my experience, I'd make sure they have the dynamic damper on them.
Solved.
I replaced the axles with ones that have the dynamic damper on them and that fixed my problems. No more shimmy. Rockauto is even taking back the old axles! They didn't have what I needed so I ordered them through Partsgeek.com. I've been trying to find this problem for 7 months now, taken it to the dealership twice and another mechanic once. Sucks that I'm the one to figure it out. sheesh.
Anyway, if you replace your axles, based on my experience, I'd make sure they have the dynamic damper on them.
Hmmm, my new APWI axles don't have the damper on them and they are smooth as can be.
Thanks for updating us! I, myself, am having a similiar issue. Violent shakes on initial accelleration from 60 mph and it smoothes out at 65 plus. I believe it is the axles. Thinking of getting raxles.
Solved.
I replaced the axles with ones that have the dynamic damper on them and that fixed my problems. No more shimmy. Rockauto is even taking back the old axles! They didn't have what I needed so I ordered them through Partsgeek.com. I've been trying to find this problem for 7 months now, taken it to the dealership twice and another mechanic once. Sucks that I'm the one to figure it out. sheesh.
Anyway, if you replace your axles, based on my experience, I'd make sure they have the dynamic damper on them.
Thanks for updating us! I, myself, am having a similiar issue. Violent shakes on initial accelleration from 60 mph and it smoothes out at 65 plus. I believe it is the axles. Thinking of getting raxles.
I've considered Raxles as well; due to the numerous positive APWI reviews here, along with their cost (less than 20% of Raxles), I opted to give the APWI units a try. Long story short, the APWI axles are as smooth as can be.
I've considered Raxles as well; due to the numerous positive APWI reviews here, along with their cost (less than 20% of Raxles), I opted to give the APWI units a try. Long story short, the APWI axles are as smooth as can be.
How long have you had the APWI? how many miles driven since install?
I just called Marty at Raxles and ordered a pair of axles. Great guy. I want to fix it right the first time so we'll see how it goes. $600 for the set with my cores returned.
How long have you had the APWI? how many miles driven since install?
I've only them on the car for six weeks and 3,000 miles. Others have had them on their cars for several years and tens of thousands of miles; total price was about $110 with shipping.
Had similar issue on a different car, tires were pretty new Potenza I think, had a tire shop checked and was told one of the tires had a broken belt or something, switched it to the back (or front, totally forgot), and all was well. Also heard from a friend that when he purchased new tires, the tire shop accidentally put a tire that is different diameter/width from the other 3, and he drove them for a couple months, always felt something was wrong, an interesting, a bit dangerous, but true story.
I didn't. Where is the bang head emoji. This is killing me trying to get my freakin car to just drive smooth. lol If I had hair... I'd pull it out. Now I think maybe the motor mount in the front is bad even thought it's a brand new OEM mount.
I didn't. Where is the bang head emoji. This is killing me trying to get my freakin car to just drive smooth. lol If I had hair... I'd pull it out. Now I think maybe the motor mount in the front is bad even thought it's a brand new OEM mount.
I am not sure that I trust aftermarket axles unless it is Raxles which uses the OEM core.
I am not sure that I trust aftermarket axles unless it is Raxles which uses the OEM core.
As a general rule I would agree with you; however, there at least three or four of us here who've used APWI axles and been very pleased with them. I know buying inexpensive axles flies in the face of logic and convention, buy hey, they really are good axles.
I am not sure that I trust aftermarket axles unless it is Raxles which uses the OEM core.
^ I used raxles and am very happy! A lot of TL folks have noticed that there is wear on the intermediate shaft bearing that can also contribute to vibrations! Replacing that fixed a lot of the vibration issues for some of the folks chasing them. Not sure if the RL has one but worth a check.
so turns out that my brand new OEM front motor mount is bad. Now.. lesson learned I think I messed it up when installing the rear mount, I think I had the front mount all hooked up and when I was jacking the engine to get the rear tab in place I think over extended the front mount causing a premature failure. I've ordered a new front OEM mount with hopes of returning the one I have (fingers crossed but if I have to eat the cost oh well, it was my error I think).
So, it's possible the axles were fine and the mount was the problem the whole time, I didn't really check it since it was a new OEM part but again... lesson learned. I'll install the new MM next week and report back.
My two front Raxles came and they are in great condition! Very beefy, clean and just like OEM. The reason why I went with Raxles is because Marty uses Amsoil synthetic grease for the cv joints. I plan on installing them tomorrow so I'll be back to give an update whether or not it fixes my vibration issue at 60 mph.
Replaced the axles today. Unfortunately, it did not fix my problem. Although it does not shake violently. What I am experiecing is between 55 to 65 if I let off the gas and then upon pressing the gas pedal or acceleration the car will shudder for a second or two and then smoothes out. It is as if it either downshifts or loses power for a split second. At this point, I have no clue what to do. Thid sucks because I love this car! Any ideas? I might replace the tires.
Could be wheels? have you tried swapping rear to front? or try another set of wheels? don't know where you live but if close to NYC I have a set of winter wheels/tires that you are welcome to try it out.
Could be wheels? have you tried swapping rear to front? or try another set of wheels? don't know where you live but if close to NYC I have a set of winter wheels/tires that you are welcome to try it out.
Maybe! I will try swapping the front and rear this weekend. Also, I just purchased the fuel pump relay. Maybe new fuel pump if the relay doesn't fix the issue. I am running out of ideas and LOVE this car. So, even if I throw money at it at least I will have new parts on a 160k car. My only fear is I don't find the right solution.
Folks, I don't want to mislead anyone with the symptoms my car has been surfacing. It really isn't a shake in the traditional way where your wheel would shake, but more of a stump or a quick power loss that causes the whole car to shake for a brief moment, which leads me to believe it could be a fuel delivery issue. Just ordered a new fuel pump and relay. Might do a DIY to help others out. Hoping this will fix my issue. 159K and I don't want to let this car go quite yet given that it is paid off and drives better than a lot of the new cars out there. Love my RL!
10-07-2019, 08:42 PM
