When traveling at high speeds on the interstate as I exit the off ramp and apply my brakes they seem to heat up the rotors and then they begin to grind. During normal city driving this never occurs. What rotors would be the proper upgrade to eliminate this. Perhaps slotted? What brand will work with Acura pads or should I also upgrade the pads. Also do I need to do the front and rears or will the fronts alone solve this problem.

 

Brakes should never grind. Hot rotors will cause brake fade where your brake pedal turns to mush. I am not sure you have accurately assessed the situation you are experiencing.

To answer the question in general, both slotted and cross drilled rotors are designed to expel heat faster than solid rotors. I believe cross drilled are more effective at this, but they have a higher tendency to fractures and defects. Because of this, slotted rotors are the safe bet. I would consider upgrading pads before rotors. There are plenty of good options both at local auto shops and online performance vendors. EBC gets pretty good feedback here. I use Napa Adaptive1.

 

Thanks. Should I change rotors and pads on all 4 wheels?

 

That depends on their condition. Rear brakes usually last 1.5-2x longer than the fronts. Are you capable of inspecting and measuring the pads yourself? Most brake shops will do an inspection for free. The only time the rotors really need replacing is if they are too thin. A brake shop can measure this for you.

 

good shit, Spy!

an inspection of the rotors and pads are needed to determine what is actually going on.


and GoTexan Day!

 

Sounds like you've got an issue with a caliper sticking. Does the car pull to the right or left?

 

No it just grinds real hard but only after applying the brakes at high speed. Normal city driving there is no problem. After they grind seems like the brakes are over heating and then as soon as they cool down everything is normal again.

 

Have you ever changed your brake fluid? Wouldn't cause grinding noise, but definitely affects performance if it breaks down or you have air in the line. The only way you get excessive heat is if the brakes are locking up, like a stuck caliper. I'd jack up each corner and spin the wheels if they move freely, likely not the calipers.

Take your tires off and look at the pads, calipers and retainer clips.

I guess it's possible you could also have a wheel bearing falling, but I think you'd hear that all the time. If you jack up the car, does the wheel have any play if you rock it back and forth from top to bottom?

Brakes aren't complicated, so shouldn't be hard to rule things out.

 

grinding is usually associated with worn pads hitting the wear bars

 

I just had the car inspected and the brake pads are half way down at 5mm and wheel bearings are OK.I am 66 years old and not about to jack up my car 4 times. Hard to understand why they only grind after applying brakes at hogh speed which to me indicates heating up. Normal city driving this does not happen unless I have been driving for a long time in the summer only which again indicates heating up of the rotors and pads. Upgrading rotors and pads should fix the problem but I am not sure what products to use.

 

Do you feel the brakes pulsating when you brake at high speed? That indicates warped rotor. Hitting the brakes at highway speed one time is not going to cause them to heat up that quickly unless you have a sticking caliper. Something else is going on.

If you just want to replace everything, akebono pads and centric rotors will do just fine. I have them with no issues.

 

Thanks Rlerman. If I replace the pads and rotors and the problem is still there then it would stand to reason that the caliper is the problem. Is the Power Slot 126.40067CSR Slotted Brake Rotor the correct one.

 

I just figured out the problem. With 105,000 miles and 3 front brake changes and rotors only being turned and not replaced there is a high spot that only appears after they heat up. I am going to replace the front rotors and pads with slotted rotors and new pads.

 

Ordered Centric High Carbon Plain 125 Series Rotors and AKEBONO PRO-ACT CERAMIC PADS and will have them installed next week. This will solve my problem. Thanks for everyones help. I really appreciate it.

 

We definitely recommend replacing the pads and rotors all at once. We have great package pricing on Stoptech kit so you can get a full front and rear kit at great pricing. The Stoptech rotors feature a black e-coating to protect against rust and corrosion, and the Street Performance pads offer increased performance over stock while producing less dust and noise than other aftermarket pads. Definitely check out our website for great pricing:
Acurazine Brake Packages - Excelerate Performance - Japanese and European Performance Specialists!!

 

Just put on Centric high carbon performance rotors and OEM Acura pads on the front. Amazing difference. Simply touch the brake pedal and the car stops on a dime. Grinding problem solved. Monday I will put Centric rotors and Oem pads on the rear and then I will be good to go.

 

Great to hear! Centric is actually the parent company of Stoptech, so a lot of the machining is the same. Stoptech mainly features the black e-coating to protect against corrosion.

 

Had the rear Centric Performance rotors and OEM Acura pads put on yesterday and I am good to go. Both front and rear rotors are coated to prevent corrosion plus I never drive in the rain or snow and I park in an indoor heated garage.

 

We're glad you are enjoying your new brakes!