Sounds like the steady hum you'd expect if you had off-road tires or old-fashioned snows, but I don't. The noise started suddenly today. It was present at all times when in the 30-65 speed range. It got both higher-pitched and more noticeable the faster I went, although always a steady low-pitched drone. It got noticeable above 40, loudest at 60, then less noticeable above about 65 (although my trial at that speed was brief, since I wasn't on any highways).

My first thoughts:
•Wheel bearing?
•Dirt in one of the diffs?
•That driveshaft bearing problem I've heard $o MUCH about?

All advices welcome.

 

The driveshaft drone is actually a whine that sounds like it comes from under the radio. This doesn't sound like it to me. Does it sound like it's coming from the center of the rear, or one of the wheels? I'm banking on axles or wheel bearings if it's coming from either wheels, more likely wheel bearing.

 

More than likely a wheel bearing issue but when was the diff fluid changed?

 

I remember Tony posted about a rear diff noise that was fixed with a fluid change?

 

Absolutely true, projektvertx. Good memory!

Wonder how long it takes from the time a wheel bearing starts to make noise until it actually fails and strands you? I've only had one wheel bearing failure in my life, a front wheel on a '71 Buick. As I recall, the whole failure process from first audible sound to total failure took maybe just a couple hours of driving. My problem is that the noise is still so subtle from the driver's seat, I'm afraid a garage would fail to hear it.

 

My 1G had a very faint bearing hum from the day I bought it, it actually took a long time for it to fail. And even when it did, it was a grinding and still driveable. My dad reported it started grinding about 6 months ago and we ended up replacing it.

The only thing I've never been clear about is whether or not you would need to press the bearings in the 2G in and out?

 

I had a really bad drone above 40mph, two days ago swapped out rear bearings, Not pressed in, I bought two Moog complete bearing/carrier sets, 185 each. Car is SO QUIET now...also new Hankooks, alignment as well. Did the bearings at home, took 45 minutes a side. 600 for tires, 100 alignment....

 

Latest installment: Had my kid ride in the back seat and listen for where the noise seemed to be coming from. His verdict was that it definitely wasn't coming from the left rear, just might be coming from the right rear, but sounded most to him as if it was coming from "directly under here," pointing to the rear seat center armrest.

 

Epilogue: With a road trip coming up soon, I ran out of time to drive the car until the noise worsened – it simply didn't. So my trusty independent mechanic went to work.

First, he duplicated the traditional test of sitting over the rear hump to listen for the noise. He concluded exactly what my son had a month earlier: The noise sounded like it was from the rear center, and if it were coming from either side, it'd be the right.

But then he want a step further. He put the car on a lift, disconnected the ABS sensors so he could spin all four wheels while it was up, and used a screwdriver as a stethoscope to find the origin of the vibration. Using this method, he definitively determined the rumbling was coming from the left rear. With my blessing, he replaced the wheel bearing at that wheel (he suggested sticking with OEM given what "I know about how you take care of this car"), and it worked. Noise gone.

P.S. I have no wisdom to offer about Acura OEM vs. Timken or any other aftermarket bearings. I'm sure doing it this way cost more. I simply went the safe route precisely because I knew nothing about the quality of the aftermarket choices available.

 

Good deal!! OEM is always best, especially if you're keeping the car a long time. Timken bearings went into my Camry as I'm not anticipating keeping it past next year, and I wanted some quality replacements that would last me thru the sale of the car next year.