Anyone replaced their pcv valve? Any recommendations as to when to do it, and where to get the part from?

Thanks. (Spring is in the air, or in my mind!)_

Acurod

 

Of course i have! Not sure about others if you dont it can lead to problems later. Every 3rd oil change and I only get it from the dealer. Do not try to get another and be-careful not to drop the washer insert. Changing it can make a big difference to the engine.
When i asked the dealer the first time for the part he said what for no body orders it as i laugh and pay! It takes all of 5min to change. Those regular maintenance things are most important if you want MAX km's.

 

DO you have any pointers on where the PCV valve is located under the hood?
Diagram or picture will be helpful.

Thank you!

 

goto the 2nd Gen RL Garage, Acura RL Service Manual Courtesy Mark1980 link, and download the PCV SYSTEM.pdf.

you can get it from www.acuraoemparts.com

 

Front passenger side corner of the valve cover. You take off the plastic cover and there is 1 10mm bolt that holds it in. Hope that helps

 

Just did mine, super easy!

 

it make? if any for today engines??

 

As far as I know, mine has never been changed since new. Ok, tell me what will I notice as a difference if I change it out? At least it is not like a 1st gen. RL where you have to remove half the engine to get to it.

 

It frees up vacume air flow inside the motor. As you accel presure builds up and and that iS what the PCV does. An easy 5hp and better gas milage and the best of all! Prevents the car from burning oil!!

 

could anyone provide a part #, if it is cheap and easy might as well do it

 

You sir are wasting you time and money by changing it every 3rd oil change. Positive Crankcase Ventilation, its used to take all the fuel vapors that escape to crankcase during combustion process, back into the intake manifold. That is all it does. By changing it every 3rd oil change you are not doing any good to the engine and definitely nothing wrong with that either. Its just wasting your $$.

You only need to change it when the hose is broken, torn and its escaping all the vapors into atmosphere.

 

This is the 2g area!! But any way it gets worn out because of engine temps and or gets lazy and doesn't seal right. But im not forcing people to change it anyway im giving very helpful advice only to owners of the 2nd gen RL. Your comments are rude and make no sense anyway lol

 

LOL! Thanks! I wasn't aware that I can't go to RL side of the forum if I don't own one. How am I rude? What part of my post is rude and what does not make sense to you? OK, I'll say it, its just plain stupid to replace a PCV valve every 3rd oil change. Just a waste of time and your hard earned dollars.

 

He's just upset you made him realize his is wasting money and throwing away good parts...

 

 

You must be 16 years old ! Go back to school looser lol
If YOU can't afford to take care of your cars then to bad for you...
I won't stop helping people with there cars that's what the fourm is for!

 

Gone for a few days and I come back to this :gheyfight:

 

Nice comeback. I applaud you for that. I can afford to take care of my cars very well, I just don't see myself wasting my time and money on a part that is perfectly good. Guess who is the loser now.. (BTW thats how you spell it...)

I am in and around the cars all the time, so I know my way around things. Thanks for playing.

 

 

Couldn't control my impulses.. now my keyboard is covered in cereal..

 

Hey guys, each one of us has to decide how much to replace parts BEFORE they fail. Some are more proactive than others. Changing every 3rd oil change MAY be too much but I have read horror stories recently about what a malfunctioning PCV valve can do to an engine. I am planning this spring on checking the function of the PCV valve just to make sure it is OK. (I have 112K miles on my 06 RL) According to the service manual you can check it by idling the engine and pinching the hose leading to the valve. If it clicks when you pinch and release it, it is ok. If not it is stuck and it should be replaced. Also I've heard that they tend to get sluggish because oily vapors are passing through the valve. So preemptive replacement might be a good idea. However I do not know of a recommended interval. Maybe check it every other year and replace it every 100K? What do you think? I think we could also watch the oil fill area for sludge. If that was happening it might be due to a PCV valve problem. Also, I think if the valve malfunctions a code will be shown (DTC P2279) This is an indicator of an intake are system leak but may also be shown if the PCV valve malfunctions. Can anyone confirm this? If that is the case we could wait for the code to come up before replacing. But I would recommend that it be replaced promptly after the code is shown. Let me know what you think of this approach. Thanks.

 

Need some advice on 2006 RL PCV. The valve shattered into pieces attempting to remove. Using mirror and tweezers (this sucked) I got all but the small end out. Where do I go from here?

 

Wasting your money if you replace your PCV every 10-15K miles. tmnhs81 is correct, replace the part when it fails or becomes clogged. Probably every TB/WP change would be appropriate.

 

PCV valve was clogged completely. Used shop vac to clean out as much as I could opening and closing the oil fill cap suction. Pulled the hose to the intake and used compressed air to blow pieces out. Using a long deck screw and paper clip I stopped the PCV end from turning and screwed the deck screw in as tight as I could, (did I say light, mirror, tools, and two hands). With a pry bar on the deck screw and compressed air on the other I got it out. It took a surprising amount of pull. All together and running down the road.

 

There was no code indicated.

 

What way does the collar go on the pcv valve?
When I pulled mine out it fell to the ground before I could see orientation of it.

Does the shoulder of the bolt collar go in-between the valve cover and pcv valve, so the should makes a small spacer?

That is how it was on the parts page at the acura dealer I ordered it from so that is the way I put it in but over the years I have seen stuff in the parts diagrams wrong more than I care to remember.

 

Funny you should ask. When the PCV valve is installed there is a space between the extended shoulder of the PCV valve and the valve cover, through which the mounting bolt passes. The coller/spacer/fat washer keeps the PCV valve from cracking when tightening this bolt. If this isn't what you were talking about let me know.

 

carwars - Thanks that was exactly it and the way I put it in and tightened it down. Just got back from running errands and all good. They are crazy not to have this in their 100k maintenance at a minimum. Mine felt pretty solid, clunky, in the valve movement shaking it compared to the new one. Here are some install pictures if anyone else ever has the same question.

 

Does that link even still work? I get errors every time I click on it. If it still works what am I doing wrong?

 

I decided to change mine today. I figured it has probably never been changed and it has close to 140,000 miles on it. I was going to just remove and clean it but it broke when I was removing it. The plastic had become very brittle. Anyway it is a very easy part to replace and not expensive. The part number is 17130-RCA-A02. It cost @$18 online.

One thing to remember is you have to reuse the "Collar" from the old valve. It is easy to drop and lose when removing the valve so be aware. Besides that it is a five minute job. My old PCV valve didn't look clogged but since I broke it when removing it I had to replace it. I would have replaced it anyway because why not with 140k miles and it only costing $18.

 

no need to waste money.. cars are not built like the 1970 no more. my RL 2005 has 276.000miles never had replaced PCV or problem since new 2005. so I do not waste money. as I see it, cause more problems replacing it for folks then leaving it. my 2 cents.

 

I replaced the PCV valve with a Standard Motor PCV from Rockauto and it is apparently the same part as OEM for about $18. What I thought would be a 5 minute job became a full hour and some panic! Although, I anticipated the old pcv valve would be brittle and hardened with 132k miles, I still was unable to stop it from breaking apart as I tried to remove it. About half of the pcv came out and the other half broke off and remained inside.

Panic ensued and I was thinking why did I even bother changing this when the car ran just fine...I was able to use a flat head and other tools to break the remaining pcv valve stuck inside to smaller piece and slowly pull it out with some tools and a shop vac. The old pcv was definitely clogged...now with the new pcv, it is responsive. not faster or anything but i do feel that when i step on the gas it goes right away as if it can now breathe.


here is where the pcv goes into..that i had to break the old pcv into pieces so i could pull it out. not for the faint of heart.

 

The exact same thing happened to me and my thoughts were the same. Why did I even bother. I just stuck the old broken part back in and called it a day. I was worried that I might push broken bits further in. I suppose I should to and it out again.

 

Lmao the same thing happen to me except I have to remove the entire front valve cover :Tomato:




Notice it not the oil stain, I use Mobil 1 for all the car and create color as "amber" like after the first thousand miles.

 

^ wow Truong..that is insane you had to do that...but at least you know your engine is in good condition!

 

So i replaced my pcv valve today and was never been replaced since car was new. Car has 200k miles. Damn pcv valve broke to 3 pieces but got it out. After replacing it, i notice engine is more smoother, fast accelaration and when u turn ur steering wheel left and right at park, rpm doesnt increase.